Some questions before my new WRX is delivered
Page 1 of 2 12 LastLast
Results 1 to 15 of 29

This is a discussion on Some questions before my new WRX is delivered within the New Member Hangout forums, part of the Community - Meet other Enthusiasts category; I'm new to subaru, and i'm coming from a jeep background, so bare with me please. I have a few ...

  1. #1
    Registered User
    Join Date
    Apr 2013
    Posts
    12

    Question Some questions before my new WRX is delivered

    I'm new to subaru, and i'm coming from a jeep background, so bare with me please.

    I have a few questions that are all over the place so I figured this was the best place to post. if not please make a suggestion on where to post!

    #1- I'm coming from a 6 speed manual Jeep Wrangler and I have a feeling i'm going to miss the 65 MPH @ 1300 rpm. So, what is the largest tire diameter that will fit (without any rub) on a '13 WRX, so I can squeeze out a slightly better final gear ratio?

    #2- I'm used to being able to to throw things on the top or strap things to the roll bars like my kayaks and my skis. I don't particularly like the looks of a WRX with the "Luggage racks" on top, so, i've been looking at my options. the real question is... if i don't order it with the racks, are the factory mounting brackets hidden under weather stripping or a cover like the yakima website has hinted?

    #3- I'm very new to Turbos. So, other then being anal about oil changes, and minding the 1000 mile break in period, what words of advise would you give me for general/preventative maintenance?

    #4- The first thing I want to do is purchase some gauges and the pillar pod (looking for boost gauge, AFR, and oil temp I think). What would you recommend i get? As far as; Analog vs. digital, one brand name vs. another, one setup easier to install then another, one gauge more important than one that i have mentioned? if so, Why?

    #5- Which readings should I be wary of from these gauges? Boost over ~14.5, boost dropping off at certain rpm? AFR too lean or too rich, oil temp upper limit and normal running range?

    #6- Any last words of advice for me? I have recently ordered the 2013 WRX limited 5dr in black.

    I went to school for small engines and motorsport mechanics (snowmobiles, 4 wheelers, jet skis, motorcycles, boats, etc.) so i understand the main idea of each reading just not model specific numbers.
    I am currently a Nuclear mechanic at a PWR plant and was fully trained at their academy therefore I understand mechanics very well, as well.

    Thank you for any time spent researching, and replying to this post.

    Schleges

  2. Remove Advertisements
    ClubWRX.net
    Advertisements
     

  3. #2
    He simply abides. SD_GR's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2002
    Location
    CA, US
    Posts
    22,712
    I Support ClubWRX
    Welcome, follow the link in my signature.
    WRX Info Links, Courtesy TheJ
    Man is a brute.... If you're cruel to him, he respects and fears you. If you're kind to him, he plucks your eyes out. Alexis Zorbas
    I lied. I cheated. I bribed men to cover the crimes of other men. I am an accessory to murder. But the most damning thing of all... I think I can live with it. And if I had to do it all over again - I would. Benjamin Sisko
    DISCLAIMER: Opinions expressed are the author's alone and are inherently worthless.

  4. #3
    Registered User
    Join Date
    Apr 2013
    Posts
    12
    I'm fairly positive that link doesn't answer a single one of my questions. I've read through most of those links and i feel like they only answer arbitrary maintenance schedule questions or performance modification questions. So, anybody else care to chime in please!

    Thank you ahead of time!

    Schleges

  5. #4
    Registered User marx's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2013
    Location
    Maine
    Posts
    73
    Congrats on your purchase. I went from a touota tundra 5.7L to the WRX and I don't miss it .I am new to the turbo world also with that being said the only info I can give you is there are four small snap covers in the roof line two on each side for the mounting of racks. I have a 2013 sedan and I'm assuming the hatch would be and same. Hope this helps a little.

  6. #5
    Registered User
    Join Date
    Apr 2013
    Location
    D-Town PA
    Posts
    12
    Answers to Questions
    1. You wont get to 1,300 RPM at 65 MPH with this car, sorry. The engine at 65 will be at about 2,800 RPM. The stock tire size is 235/45 R17. If you keep the stock Rim at 17 you (MIGHT and this is a BIG might) be able to go with 235/50 R17 tires. Ask around for this I have never tried to up the tire diameter. Also this may not drop RPM much if at all. And if you don’t rub on smooth roads you probably will on bumpy ones, or if you have an increased amount of weight in the rear.

  7. #6
    Registered User
    Join Date
    Apr 2013
    Location
    D-Town PA
    Posts
    12
    2. The mounting points are covered by a little metal door/hinged flap on the roof (4 total and sedan and hatch are the same). You can remove or install the cross bars as needed. From what I remember the bars are bolted down by torx bolts (6 Pointed star. Never over torque these, they can strip out easily if over tightened) and I have seen them rust and seize in the roof bolt hole, which makes removing the crossbars very difficult if this happens. Use anti seize on the threads to help prevent this when installing the bolts. I have no info on after market stuff sorry.

  8. #7
    Registered User Ingo's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2012
    Location
    Colorado Springs, CO
    Posts
    1,110
    The connection for the roof rack is under a cover, flip out and screw holes are there. My rack goes on /off as needed. As far as turbo, no real issues. Just treat it nice, i.e. warm-up before getting on it. Guages: I went and spend a little money on the torque app and an old android phone and Blue-tooth adapter, work fine for now and doesn't require holes/wires/other hardware. Can be removed without leaving a trace. The engine is made to go 6.6K RpM's, therefore no low engine speeds, but they handle that just fine. Some ppl routinely rev into the 7's... Not me, though - I'd like to keep mine around for a while.
    You can't have everything - where would you put it?

  9. #8
    Registered User
    Join Date
    Apr 2013
    Location
    D-Town PA
    Posts
    12
    3. Never run anything less then 91 Octane fuel, you will damage the engine if you do and have no power. (I only say this cause I know people that bought a turbo car and didn’t know this). When starting the car from a cold start, get in and drive it but Don’t let RPM’s go higher then 2,500 (Turbo fully spools at 4,000). You want to heat the engine up as quick as possible WITHOUT using the turbo much and this is the best and safest way. The 2011+ 2.5 Turbo motors, Subaru HIGHLY recommends running Fully synthetic oil. (If you run conventional you have to do oil changes every 2,000 miles or sooner.) Synthetic oil can go 3,750 or more depending on the oil. (Look into Shell Rotella T6 Fully Synthetic 5W 40, don’t freak but it will say for diesels on the bottle) I have heard of guys running this up-to 7,000-8,000 miles between oil changes and the engine never consumed any oil and still had a little life left in it. Subaru Turbo engines and Turbo engines in general like to consume oil even if they are on the new side LIKE 10,000-15,000 miles. (And when I say consume I mean you will be a quart low on the dip stick after 3,000). If you use a thinner Fully Synthetic oil the engine will consume more then a quart every 3,000 miles. (But do your own research into what oil is good and what sucks) I don’t like anything MOBILE One to thin, and a Subaru Technician told me once about looking into oils that are recommended for GERMAN CARS (Probably cause they are thicker)
    OIL FILTERS- I personally also like PUROLATER PureONE (GOLD BOXES) Oil filters on these cars. They are a good balance between cost and engine protection, and they are a little bigger then the Subaru Blue filter that comes on the engine. (NEVER USE FRAM) And Royal Purple is not worth the money in my book. But again do research.

  10. #9
    Registered User
    Join Date
    Apr 2013
    Location
    D-Town PA
    Posts
    12
    4. YOU CAN’T DO AN A PILLER GAUGE MOD. The car has side curtain airbags. In the result of an accident the gauge pod will shoot off and smash you in the face. You can do a clam shell steering wheel mod (Look at PerrinPerformance.com for what I mean by this) or mount the gauges to the top of the gauge cluster shroud. There is also a Three pod gauge cluster that can be bought AFTER MARKET and mounted to the passenger side dashboard. I don’t recommend this either for the same reason you can’t do an A PILLER gauge mod. I can’t help on recommending any gauge brand or type sorry. Oil pressure gauges are a good buy too from what I have heard, possibly more important then temp. You have your coolant temp gauge for looking if things are getting to hot.

  11. #10
    Registered User
    Join Date
    Apr 2013
    Location
    D-Town PA
    Posts
    12
    5. Boost- Will peak higher then 14.5 (Possible around 15-15.7 don’t quote me on this though). It’s an issue if it stays higher then 14.5 for more then a few seconds. It’s a much bigger issue if the boost doesn’t drop or continues to climb after you take your foot off the throttle. I think that is called over boosting when it don’t drop when your foot is off the gas and can indicate a stuck closed waste-gate. I think.
    Air Fuel Ratio- The best AFR reading is (Stoichiometric 14.7:1 (It used to be 12.7:1 but E.P.A. changed the ratio to 14.7:1 this is what I read) Any number Lower is considered RICH (MORE GAS THEN AIR) any number Higher is considered LEAN (LESS GAS THEN AIR). It is better to be RICH then LEAN. Gas cools internal components. Lean mixtures will heat up and Possible Melt or even Cut Grooves into Exhaust valves and then you lose compression and boost.
    Oil Temp- The turbo motors run normal operating temp at around I think 180-190 degrees F ( Don’t quote me on this). So oil should be around this at most times.
    Also boost is most important reading to look at then you work your way to other stuff and people have their own opinions of what is good or bad to look at.

  12. #11
    Registered User
    Join Date
    Apr 2013
    Location
    D-Town PA
    Posts
    12
    6. Only other thing I can think of would be for cat-back exhaust recommendations. Make sure they have a resonator in the mid-pipe or you will be guaranteed to have drone on the highway and it will make you go nuts and kill puppies. And Subaru does make a short ram intake (S.P.T. SUBARU PERFORMANCE TUNING ) for this car but it won’t list it under 2008-2013 WRX or STI you have to ( I think order the Intake from a 2005-2008 LEGACY GT if you want the SPT intake). And NEVER USE an oil based air filter on these cars, you have a very good chance of messing up the M.A.F. sensor in the intake tube and if you do, all other readings are messed up because every thing looks at incoming air readings.

  13. #12
    Registered User
    Join Date
    Apr 2013
    Location
    D-Town PA
    Posts
    12
    Hope this information helps answer some or all questions. If it doesn't sorry.

  14. #13
    Moderator T0rque's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2004
    Location
    Medford, Oregon
    Posts
    25,521
    I Support ClubWRX
    I run 275/35/18 tires.. But Im pretty sure my speedo is pretty accurate.


    Lead Wrench @ WTF Tuning, LLC

  15. #14
    Registered User maus's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2012
    Location
    Palm Beach, FL
    Posts
    1,141
    Quote Originally Posted by F15HTNK View Post
    4. YOU CAN’T DO AN A PILLER GAUGE MOD. The car has side curtain airbags. In the result of an accident the gauge pod will shoot off and smash you in the face. You can do a clam shell steering wheel mod (Look at PerrinPerformance.com for what I mean by this) or mount the gauges to the top of the gauge cluster shroud. There is also a Three pod gauge cluster that can be bought AFTER MARKET and mounted to the passenger side dashboard. I don’t recommend this either for the same reason you can’t do an A PILLER gauge mod. I can’t help on recommending any gauge brand or type sorry. Oil pressure gauges are a good buy too from what I have heard, possibly more important then temp. You have your coolant temp gauge for looking if things are getting to hot.
    You can do a pillar gauge, the airbag doesn't deploy from there.
    2012 DGM 5 DOOR WRX
    Mods: Stage 2+
    "I live my life a twelve year old at a time. For those ten seconds or less, I'm free."
    Official ClubWRX Creeper

  16. #15
    Registered User maus's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2012
    Location
    Palm Beach, FL
    Posts
    1,141
    As for Brands of Gauges I would go with AEM for Digital and the Defi Red Racer Series if you want Analog. Getting a wideband for a stock downpipe car would be a waste of work IMO since you need a bung welded onto the downpipe for your reading.

    As for a pillarpod I think they are rice. I like the SMY Cluster.
    2012 DGM 5 DOOR WRX
    Mods: Stage 2+
    "I live my life a twelve year old at a time. For those ten seconds or less, I'm free."
    Official ClubWRX Creeper

Page 1 of 2 12 LastLast

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •