whiteline 22mm rear & whiteline 24mm front with f&r kartboy end links
This is a discussion on New to Wrx and my 2013 needs a Xmas present within the New Member Hangout forums, part of the Community - Meet other Enthusiasts category; I have a 2013 Wrx and was looking at a Xmas present for it.. It already received a new stereo, ...
I have a 2013 Wrx and was looking at a Xmas present for it..
It already received a new stereo, amp and speakers
A Cobb ap
ordered a flossy custom shift knob
Deciding on a rear sway bar from perrin or ?? Anyone have any better first suspension upgrades.
whiteline 22mm rear & whiteline 24mm front with f&r kartboy end links
I keep hearing to use 25 rear and 22 front with stock 2013 springs/struts.. Is this correct
Usually it's the other way around: front is heavier therefore u need the heavier gauge or the thicker sway bar in the front.
Just had my 2013 done with the whiteline 24/22mm heavy duty adjustable setup. You don't need the adjustment if you are not tracking and the adjustment will help once you've upgraded your entire suspenders. look up my recent posting for a decent driving impressions
So it's up to you but you should definitely provision for getting the end links with this upgrade to get the most out of the swaybars. Also, to minimize the chance of breaking the stock rubber end links which will twist away to oblivion soon or later due to the additional forces exerted on them by the heavy duty sways
Originally Posted by Wrx2013Before throwing any parts at the car to help it "handle better", you need to address two things:Originally Posted by jsBLwrx
1) Tires. Yes, Subaru now ships WRXs with summer tires from the factory; this is much improved of the old RE92 days of past. No, the Dunlops that come with the car aren't all that good, and can use improvement. Your tires are the one thing connecting your car to the road; if they can't grip, it doesn't matter what parts you throw at the car.
2) Alignment. I hate OE specs. From a performance standpoint, it sucks. Dial in as much negative camber up front as possible (GR owners don't have an easy way to adjust rear camber like the GD guys do in that we just need a set of bolts) to help dial out some understeer.
With those two things addressed, take your car to a local Auto-X Test & Tune event. I recommend the T&T because you'll have the opportunity to get more runs in versus an SCCA sanctioned one. Push your car to the limit in a controlled environment and see where you feel the car is lacking. Then start figuring out what modifications will help fix the "issues" you have.
That said, in terms of swaybars...
I'm more familiar with solid bars (e.g., Whilteline), so my advice will be geared towards that. Hollow bars are less rigid than their "equal" solid bars.
As a general rule, you want to do your rough body roll resistance tuning with your struts and springs, and fine tuning with your swaybars. That means that your swaybars should be matched to your struts and springs. This is one reason that adjustable bars are important; you can modify them without having to buy/install new ones.
For stock springs, a 24 F / 22 R setup is common. With the Whiteline adjustable bars, if down the road you decide to upgrade your springs, you can bump it up to a 26 F / 24 R setup.
I know this has been In lots of threads but of course it is hard to get your specific answers frOm old threads. Are Perrin sways hollow or solid? Can I start with rear and get the frOnt later. I live in snow country and don't want tO lower the car but want tO minimize the body roll. It is driving me crazy how much this car rolls in turns. Is there an inexpensive upgrade to keep ride height and maintaIn it as a daily driver and get it too handle better my 06 911 haha. Or at least gain some imProvements
FWIW Here is the write up on my whiteline - u want to dial out roll than this will get u there. This my old post on another site:
I didn't like some handling dynamics and motion control on the WRX. So here is what I've done and how different it is:
>Work was performed at IAG, MD
Sway bars and EndLinks:
>>The sways are Whiteline heavy duty 24mm adjustable front and 22mm adjustable rear. The front/rear spacers and endlinks from Kartboy were also installed
>>Brake system was slightly upgraded with front/rear Hawk HPS pads, along with the braided stainless steel lines front and back: of course the fluid was flushed and refilled with ATE super blue fluids
>First impressions after driving for two hours in the last two days:
>>Way improved front end feedback; sharper turn-in; less roll and no sloppy swaying issues. More importantly, the set up builds confidence and trust in the car. Endlinks provide good amount of improvement on the feedback. Oh, and the car tracks true and straight on highways, hoorraaayyyy!! - no more "wandering" off center "constantly"
>>Especially notable is the rear end's tendency to rotate and and easy to induce some oversteer on sharp turns: couldn't even bother with the stock set up: I didn't feel comfortable and trust the stock set up
>>Brake feels also a whole lot better - I'm sure this is mostly due to the HPS pads, but I feel the fluids and steel lines will aid in emergency braking or hard braking scenarios.
>>Lastly, the sways and endlinks did reduce the amount of front to rear seesawing motion during acceleration, while reducing nose diving when compared to stock
Do the front first, if only doing one. Factory alignment will keep the rear tires with decent contact patch, where the fronts will not.Originally Posted by Wrx2013
This is why I brought up alignment earlier.
Last edited by EJ257; 12-11-2012 at 09:17 AM.
Now that I'm not on my phone anymore, I can go into a little bit more detail...Originally Posted by EJ257
From the factory, you aren't given that much negative camber up front. So, when you enter the corner, and the weight hits that outside front tire, it pushes it towards positive camber, meaning you'll have less contact patch, and therefore, less grip. This causes the front to run wide, classic understeer situation. By only going with a rear bar, it causes the rear to step out more, and create some oversteer. While the car essentially is more neutral, it still doesn't address the fact that your front is still understeering. Now, if you were to go with just a front bar, the car doesn't lose as much camber, meaning you will maintain more contact patch, and more grip, and therefore, will understeer less. With less understeer, you can run a smaller rear bar, and have a better line into the corner, and therefore, will be faster.
You still need to address the lack of camber Subaru gave you up front though. Go to a shop that will do an alignment to your specs and have them max out the front so it's even on both sides. That alone will make a big difference in how the car handles.
In all seriousness - how can you do anything to your car without upgrading the brakes? They SUCK!
2012 WRX 5 door WRB
Protune, Cobb Airbox, Cobb DP, SPT Exhaust, Short throw, DBA 4000 slotted rotors, Hawk Racing Pads, Goodridge lines, Whiteline front and rear bars and endlinks.