stock intake filter replacement
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This is a discussion on stock intake filter replacement within the New Member Hangout forums, part of the Community - Meet other Enthusiasts category; Wondering what people's opinions are for replacing the stock air filter on 2012 Rex. Not looking to do a cold ...

  1. #1
    Registered User rikkyb30's Avatar
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    stock intake filter replacement

    Wondering what people's opinions are for replacing the stock air filter on 2012 Rex. Not looking to do a cold air or SF intake quite yet, just new filter element. Figuring K&N element is the best way to go. Any thoughts or prior experience?

    Any other quick mods that can be done without affecting any sort of warranty?

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    Master Baiter EJ257's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by rikkyb30
    Wondering what people's opinions are for replacing the stock air filter on 2012 Rex. Not looking to do a cold air or SF intake quite yet, just new filter element. Figuring K&N element is the best way to go. Any thoughts or prior experience?
    Don't bother.

    Quote Originally Posted by rikkyb30
    Any other quick mods that can be done without affecting any sort of warranty?
    Window tint
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    Registered User rikkyb30's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by EJ257 View Post
    Don't bother.
    Negligible difference?

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    Registered User jas280z's Avatar
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    Well if you never change to a CAI or similar, you would get washability out of a K&N panel filter. But I would wait until my oe filter was past it before changing it to a K&N. All you are really getting is an significantly increased life.

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    Registered User etnpnys's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by jas280z View Post
    Well if you never change to a CAI or similar, you would get washability out of a K&N panel filter. But I would wait until my oe filter was past it before changing it to a K&N. All you are really getting is an significantly increased life.
    ^^ This is basically what I do also. Just wait until you need to replace it, and then spend a few dollars more to never have to replace it again.

    Similar to brake rotors, when I *need* to replace them I go with cross drilled/slotted because of the heat dissipation that theoretically prolongs the lifespan (it sure did in my last car at least).
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    Registered User GarrettKoonsman's Avatar
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    Drilled/slotted brakes will lessen the life of pads however.

    Also, oiled filters are annoying. Look into a non oiled replacement.
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    Registered User etnpnys's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by GarrettKoonsman View Post
    Drilled/slotted brakes will lessen the life of pads however.
    Good point. But it's a pita to take off all four wheels and rotors and go get them turned. Pads are easy! ...And one could probably make the case that less heat is not as hard on the pads. I warped the stock rotors in my last car because it obviously wasn't supposed to be driven like I wanted to.

    I'm really not sure on the WRX pads & rotors - my car is only 7 days old at this point.
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    Registered User rikkyb30's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by etnpnys View Post
    Similar to brake rotors, when I *need* to replace them I go with cross drilled/slotted because of the heat dissipation that theoretically prolongs the lifespan (it sure did in my last car at least).
    I believe most autocross clubs and track days don't allow drilled rotors because they're (even though probably only slightly) more likely to crack/break.

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    Registered User etnpnys's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by rikkyb30 View Post
    I believe most autocross clubs and track days don't allow drilled rotors because they're (even though probably only slightly) more likely to crack/break.
    Consider it noted!!
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    Registered User teflon_jones's Avatar
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    Your stock paper filter already flows more air than your engine can use. Oiled filters are notorious for causing MAF issues. They also don't filter as well as paper filters, so they allow more crap into your engine, affecting the longevity and performance of your engine. Just stick with a paper filter.

    Other mods you can do besides tint and wheels that won't affect your warranty:
    Upgrade your brake fluid to racing spec (ATE or Motul)
    Upgrade your brake pads
    Change your axleback exhaust

    Quote Originally Posted by etnpnys View Post
    Similar to brake rotors, when I *need* to replace them I go with cross drilled/slotted because of the heat dissipation that theoretically prolongs the lifespan (it sure did in my last car at least).
    See below on lifespan of improperly cross-drilled rotors (i.e. drilled holes instead of cast holes).

    Quote Originally Posted by etnpnys View Post
    Good point. But it's a pita to take off all four wheels and rotors and go get them turned. Pads are easy! ...And one could probably make the case that less heat is not as hard on the pads. I warped the stock rotors in my last car because it obviously wasn't supposed to be driven like I wanted to.
    I've never turned rotors on any car I've owned. It's a total waste of time unless there's bad irregularities in your rotors (which is very rare). Just put on new pads and bed them.

    The most common cause of warped rotors isn't from driving them really hard. It's from getting water on them when they're hot.

    Quote Originally Posted by rikkyb30 View Post
    I believe most autocross clubs and track days don't allow drilled rotors because they're (even though probably only slightly) more likely to crack/break.
    Not true. As long as you have adequate pad thickness they don't really care what rotors you're running. 99% of the drilled rotors people use are the ones that are drilled after the fact. This makes them MUCH more likely to crack, especially if used at a track. Auto-x doesn't make your brakes work that hard compared to a track btw. Ones like Brembo that have cast holes very rarely have issues, and usually those only happen when the cars are raced and not usually on club track days where you're not running for long periods or really heating up the rotors like you would in a true race, though I have seen it happen to a very few people on club track days.
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    Registered User etnpnys's Avatar
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    Thanx for the insight... Good stuff.
    Quote Originally Posted by teflon_jones View Post
    Other mods you can do besides tint and wheels that won't affect your warranty:
    Upgrade your brake fluid to racing spec (ATE or Motul)
    What are the benefits to this? Longevity? It wouldn't affect brake fade, would it?
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  13. #12
    \_(ツ)_/ Rambo's Avatar
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    It will affect brake fade, as in, you'll have a lot less of it. Racing brake fluid has a higher boiling point and is less prone to creating bubbles in the lines as he fluid heats up. You wont stop faster, but your brakes will have more endurance under hard driving.
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    Registered User 11blackwrx's Avatar
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    ive never thought of replacing the brake fluid
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    Quote Originally Posted by teflon_jones View Post
    The most common cause of warped rotors isn't from driving them really hard. It's from getting water on them when they're hot.
    I've heard at one point that improperly/unevenly torqued lug nuts can also warp the rotors.
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    Registered User rikkyb30's Avatar
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    I can't see that it would, but can anyone confirm that replacing brake fluid w something like ATE super blue wouldn't affect warranty.

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