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This is a discussion on I'm New with no boost ! within the New Member Hangout forums, part of the Community - Meet other Enthusiasts category; Originally Posted by GarrettKoonsman ok. Ya check all your lines as posted. Honestly I would just go pick up some ...

  1. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by GarrettKoonsman View Post
    ok. Ya check all your lines as posted. Honestly I would just go pick up some vacuum hose and replace all of the lines except the one with the pill in it. Its a pretty quick thing to do and will eliminate any sneaky leaks. You need either 5/16" id or 3.5mm id
    Thanks.

    do they sell like a kit with all the hoses, including the one with the pill ?

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  3. #17
    Admiral Ackbar the 1st mycologist's Avatar
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    You just get a length of OEM inner diameter vacuum tubing at cut it to the lengths you need.
    "From a little spark may burst a mighty flame." - Dante
    "The stitch is lost unless the thread is knotted." - Italian proverb

  4. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by mycologist View Post
    That looks like wastegate spring pressure only. The turbo is probably fine and the issue is the boost control system. Make sure it is hooked up like so and all the hoses are good, test the solenoid if that doesn't work.
    My cologist I think you were right.

    We changed the timing belt, pulleys, plugs filters and oil which did help with the gas mileage.

    but still no boost. I took eveyones advice and checked all my hoses for leaks but there wasn't any.

    the problem is that little unit (label W in the diagram) which has the rod coming out of it that opens the waste gate, the spring in it seems to be worn.

    When the boost pressure gets to .05 bars or about 7.25 psi the waste gate starts to open and the pressure does not build past that.

    The waste gate should not open until to 13.5 psi right ?

    Do you know what the name of part (W) and where i can get one for a reasonable price ?

    When we change it I will confirm if it solves my issue.

    Thanks.

  5. #19
    Admiral Ackbar the 1st mycologist's Avatar
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    You can detach the arm and pull on it - should be ~7 lbs. Or you can run the line directly from the turbo (line 1) to W without the T etc. and if the spring is ok it will still hit ~7psi.

    Also confirm that the restrictor pill is in place.

    Also, and more commonly than having a weak spring in W (wastegate actuator) the Boost Control Solenoid (Top thing sitting on the white box) may be stuck closed.

    Here is how it works - pressure (boost) builds in the turbo. Without the BCS working, it flows through the line and pushes directly on the diaphragm/spring in W and opens the wastegate at the spring pressure.The pill restricts some of the flow and is needed to get higher boost. It works with the BCS - the BCS will bleed pressure off the line so the spring sees less - this is how the boost can climb above the spring pressure. The ECU will control the BCS to hit the target boost (it closes it more to bleed off less pressure and thus allows the wastegate actuator spring to open the wastegate preventing overboost past the target 13.5 or whatever). You should hear it clicking in test mode or if you run a 12v power lead directly to it. Otherwise it is stuck closed and you will never hit > than spring pressure.
    "From a little spark may burst a mighty flame." - Dante
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  6. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by mycologist View Post
    You can detach the arm and pull on it - should be ~7 lbs. Or you can run the line directly from the turbo (line 1) to W without the T etc. and if the spring is ok it will still hit ~7psi.

    Also confirm that the restrictor pill is in place.

    Also, and more commonly than having a weak spring in W (wastegate actuator) the Boost Control Solenoid (Top thing sitting on the white box) may be stuck closed.

    Here is how it works - pressure (boost) builds in the turbo. Without the BCS working, it flows through the line and pushes directly on the diaphragm/spring in W and opens the wastegate at the spring pressure.The pill restricts some of the flow and is needed to get higher boost. It works with the BCS - the BCS will bleed pressure off the line so the spring sees less - this is how the boost can climb above the spring pressure. The ECU will control the BCS to hit the target boost (it closes it more to bleed off less pressure and thus allows the wastegate actuator spring to open the wastegate preventing overboost past the target 13.5 or whatever). You should hear it clicking in test mode or if you run a 12v power lead directly to it. Otherwise it is stuck closed and you will never hit > than spring pressure.
    ok , i now understand. so the WG actuator should be fine seeing that it starts to open around 7 psi.I will check the BCS this week and let you know what happens. Is there a certain direction the pill should be in the line ? whats the cost of a BCS ?


    Thanks Mycologist !!!

  7. #21
    Admiral Ackbar the 1st mycologist's Avatar
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    The pill needs to be inline with the hole in the longitudinal axis of the line, forward or reverse doesn't matter.

    You may be able to clean the BCS.

    It is still possible that the BCS is working and the spring is weak - it is a balance between spring, pill, and BCS and all three need to be right. You can tell for sure attaching as I said from the turbo to the wastegate directly.
    "From a little spark may burst a mighty flame." - Dante
    "The stitch is lost unless the thread is knotted." - Italian proverb

  8. #22
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    ok , so the BCS seems fine. it clicks when current is introduced. we pressure tested it and it holds pressure. The waste Gate actuator looks fine also . it starts to open at about 7psi, we pressure tested it directly. I replace the vacuum hoses and pill with dealer parts.

    i also disconnected the battery for about an hour to reset the ECU.

    i read on nasioc that engine knocking can disable your boost control.see below :

    If boost returns when you reflash a map, reset the engine control unit (ECU) or disconnect the car's battery, then it is possible that your dynamic advance multiplier (DAM) is dropping below a specific threshold at some point (along with the accompanying fine knock learning correction) and causing boost control to be disabled (i.e. running wastegate boost). When the ECU is reset (due to the above mentioned operations), the DAM is reset to an initial value and boost control would be restored until it dropped low enough again. The DAM will drop that low when the ECU perceives heavy repeatable knock.

    what can i use to clean my MAF sensor ?

    thanks

  9. #23
    Admiral Ackbar the 1st mycologist's Avatar
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    Remove the MAF and spray MAF cleaner up into the tube very gently - the MAF is not the obvious bulb thing it is a little coil up inside. Allow to dry and reinstall in the correct direction. THere are threads with pics if you need just search.

    Yes your car can pull boost from learning that it is experiencing detonation. If that is the issue you really don't want to trick it and the best thing to do is use a tactrix cable and run learning view to see what is going on. Pulling the battery won't reset the ECU unless you hold the brakes for a bit to drain the last of the energy. With stock maps the DAM usually resets to 50%.
    Last edited by mycologist; 10-06-2011 at 06:32 AM.
    "From a little spark may burst a mighty flame." - Dante
    "The stitch is lost unless the thread is knotted." - Italian proverb

  10. #24
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    I keep seeing the term MAPs . What are MAPS ????

  11. #25
    Admiral Ackbar the 1st mycologist's Avatar
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    They are the programs that the ECU runs, controlling timing, boost, etc. etc. etc.



    Read this if you want to understand better how it works - IAM refers to DAM in your terminology (Cobb)

    http://www.romraider.com/forum/viewt...t=1840&start=0
    Last edited by mycologist; 10-06-2011 at 03:50 PM.
    "From a little spark may burst a mighty flame." - Dante
    "The stitch is lost unless the thread is knotted." - Italian proverb

  12. #26
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    hello and welcome

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