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This is a discussion on New girl from Michigan with misfire within the New Member Hangout forums, part of the Community - Meet other Enthusiasts category; Originally Posted by SD_GR Take care though because too light a flywheel can lead to misfire codes. ACT streetlight flywheel ...

  1. #106
    Captain James of the SS Impreza has gone down with the ship Drews's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by SD_GR View Post
    Take care though because too light a flywheel can lead to misfire codes.
    ACT streetlight flywheel doesn't. But I'd still get it tuned cause they can tune that out.
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  3. #107
    Pro Manscaper Mikie13's Avatar
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    ughhh...get rid of that Injen ASAP. I have known probably 5 people with Bugeyes that had an Injen on it and it cause it to run like absolute crap. As simple as going to even an SPT short ram intake instantly caused the car to run better.
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  4. #108
    Pro Manscaper Mikie13's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by mangostick View Post
    As for boost, if the car was tuned at any point in time boost might have been increased .. or.. a manual boost controller could have been installed. <-- without a tune that may very well have caused a detonation problem. Or they could have just always ran crappy fuel in it that might have caused enough detonation to ruin the ringlands too.. no telling really. I would suggest installing a boost gauge just so you can monitor after the rebuild. They're generally not too expensive and fairly easy to install. What they are, is worth their weight in gold when it comes to ruling out leaks or overboost issues.
    You raise a good point here...notice all the zip ties on the boost lines on the pic of the turbo..that had been tampered with at some point or another...
    The Hawk-Eye Alliance #90|The Blobeye Syndicate #0|The Stink-Eye Mob #0|N.E.R.D. Founding Member & #3
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  5. #109

    Admin - Scooby Hooligan

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    hi and welcome , just read thru the whole thread quite the quest you have had !!

    I have used exedy clutches and lightened flywheels in my old bugeye:
    Flywheel: FF01T 2002 - 2005 IMPREZA WRX H4; 2L; Turbo; Gas(EJ205)

    Clutch Kit Stage 1: 15802 2002 - 2005 IMPREZA WRX H4; 2L; Turbo; Gas(EJ205)

    or get this combo from oakos:
    STi & WRX Performance Parts: Exedy Clutch & ACT Streetlite Flywheel Combo, WRX 2.0L (SAVE $50.50!!)

    also it would be good to replace the shifter bushings with silicon ones :
    STi & WRX Performance Parts: Kartboy Shifter Bushings, Subaru 5-Speed

    inexpensive and it definitely gives a more positive and firmer feel with the gear shifter

    ----------------
    ----------------

    also while you have it all apart when you go to put back together add this upgraded silicon inlet turbo hose:
    STi & WRX Performance Parts: Samco Turbo Inlet Hose, '02-'07 WRX & STi

    ^will help with turbo spool up and also let the turbo do what it does best suck in more air and certainly better than the stock factory restricted intake !.

    and replace the stock crank pulley with :
    STi & WRX Performance Parts: Kartboy Aluminum Crank Pulley, '02-'09 WRX & STi

    helps free up some of the rotational mass of the engine so car will definitely feel more peppier down low.

    andy
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  6. #110
    Registered User gogocricket's Avatar
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    thanks for the suggestions. i ordered the act streetlight and exedy oem replacement.

    split the block today, took out the crank, and i need new main bearings as well. damn. ordered them, now waiting til thursday for them to get to me... using two day air shipping. Rarr.

  7. #111
    The Fruit mangostick's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mikie13 View Post
    You raise a good point here...notice all the zip ties on the boost lines on the pic of the turbo..that had been tampered with at some point or another...
    only other thing I raise aside of good points are good pints lol...

    sorry couldn't let that one go without some sort of funny retort.

    While apart best to do all the bearings anyway.. you've gone to all this hard work so no sense in cutting that very important corner. Cant wait for re-assembly progress Gettin new goodies in the mail is always fun. Even if they're just replacement parts
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  8. #112
    Registered User gogocricket's Avatar
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    i took all my valves out today. some of them look good, some of them have quite a bit of carbon build up. what is typically done at this step? is there a way to tell if i need machining on these? is it just the valves that are ground, or do they typically grind the spots on the heads where they connect as well? anyone know what this typically costs?

  9. #113
    The Fruit mangostick's Avatar
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    usually a machine shop will clean everything up thoroughly, install new guides and valve seats/seals.. they'll usually match the seats to the valves (seats are softer metal) however you can ask for what they call a "3 angle" valve job and there they really make sure everything is perfectly mated and sealed. the 3 angle is a little more extensive vs a standard fitment.

    Not sure on prices.. varies depending on the work you have done. They may just need to be cleaned up and new valve seals installed. Wouldn't hurt to have a good shop check em out and give you a estimate.
    OBP 2010 5dr *traded*
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  10. #114
    Captain James of the SS Impreza has gone down with the ship Drews's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by mangostick View Post
    Gettin new goodies in the mail is always fun. Even if they're just replacement parts
    Between all of the cars I have in my driveway I'm pretty sure that the UPS and FedEx men are gainfully employed delivering parts to my house.
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  11. #115
    Registered User gogocricket's Avatar
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    My heads are apart, valves and seals are all out. They are super dirty, anyone know a good trick for getting off thick carbon? I called a machine shop and they said that it would cost over 400 per head to fit the valves to the seats and clean everything. I have so far spent 1400 on this project, I don't want to spend another 800 to 1000 to redo the valves when I didn't have a problem with them in the first place. I will clean them myself and hand lap them all.

    I took all of my pistons and rods to my dad's work to balance them, and peen the rods. The rods are done and they look like new.. yay! And they are slightly stronger now. However, as I was taking the rings out (by hand, not using force) a chunk broke off one of my 'good' pistons! It just came off with the ring. So, I decided that I don't trust the old ones, and I bought 3 more new pistons. It would have been great to get forged ones, but I didn't want to spend 600 on a set. I'm sure the stock will be fine anyway, since I don't see myself doing more than 300 hp with the car ever. Since its my daily driver, longevity is a concern. I would like not to blow up my engine right after I put it back together Are the stock rods forged? The parting line on them looked like they could have been, anyone know? Once the new pistons come, they will go back there to be balanced.

    Since this is all apart, I may do some porting and polishing as well. Anyone have any experience or advice on that?

  12. #116
    Captain James of the SS Impreza has gone down with the ship Drews's Avatar
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    You talking about port and polishing your heads? Or like everything?
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  13. #117
    Registered User gogocricket's Avatar
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    heads first, but also intake and headers

  14. #118
    Captain James of the SS Impreza has gone down with the ship Drews's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by gogocricket View Post
    heads first, but also intake and headers
    I would definitely suggest doing your intake, tgvs, and throttle body. If you're going for performance I'd get aftermarket headers. If you want reliability then pnp your stock exhaust manifold and get a high flow crosspipe. I have a PnP and coated exhaust mani and high flow cross pipe sitting on my garage floor right now.
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    Resident Clubdub Debbie Downer. I'd love your ideas if you kept them to yourself. Subarus suck, get a new wife.

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  15. #119
    Registered User AmateurX's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by gogocricket View Post

    I took all of my pistons and rods to my dad's work to balance them, and peen the rods. The rods are done and they look like new.. yay! And they are slightly stronger now.
    When you say "peen" do you mean (steel) shot, or glass? ...just curious.

    I would think that a glass bead blast (as opposed to sand blast) would be able to get the carbon off your valves without adding any pits (tiny holes). Sand tends to be too aggressive, especially on ground, hardened parts such as your valves. Glass would also work on your valve seats, but it's messy, and might require some power flushing of the heads.
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  16. #120
    Registered User gogocricket's Avatar
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    Steel shot. The rods don't have a smooth finish, they are slightly pitted, so I'd be scared to do this to my valves.

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