Short throw shifter value?
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This is a discussion on Short throw shifter value? within the New Member Hangout forums, part of the Community - Meet other Enthusiasts category; I just ordered a base WRX with the short throw shifter. It is still weeks out. Paid 1 for it ...

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    Short throw shifter value?

    I just ordered a base WRX with the short throw shifter. It is still weeks out. Paid $231 for it installed. Should I cancel it and just order after market bushings? Just got here and it seems like the bushings make all the difference. Thanks!

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    Master Baiter EJ257's Avatar
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    That's up to you. I find the OE offering to leave a lot on the table compared to aftermarket.
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    Registered User jd92677's Avatar
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    I test drove a WRX with the factory short throw and have a Kartboy with bushings in my car and I think mine feels much crisper and a little shorter. It'll also save a few bucks if you can do the install yourself.
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    Registered User Heide264's Avatar
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    You can do both?

    I took the factory sts due to the fact the dealer gave me such a good deal on it. The actual linkage on the shifter is shorter. The aftermarket levers don't replace the linkage. I plan on getting at least the bushings still, and maybe the lever depending on if I want a shorter throw or not ontop of the factory one.
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    Master Baiter EJ257's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Heide264
    You can do both?
    Yes. In previous MYs, there were different parts for OE and OE STS; not sure if that's still the case. Call the guys at Turn-in Concepts when you're starting to look into it more seriously.
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    Quote Originally Posted by Heide264 View Post
    You can do both?

    I took the factory sts due to the fact the dealer gave me such a good deal on it. The actual linkage on the shifter is shorter. The aftermarket levers don't replace the linkage. I plan on getting at least the bushings still, and maybe the lever depending on if I want a shorter throw or not ontop of the factory one.
    The "linkage" is the same. The SPT shortens the throw by relocating the pivot--just like the aftermarket do (to varying extents--some probably more) & the aftermarket shorten the overall lever height also. If you replace the bushings & the lever of your SPT STS you will have replaced everything that made it a STS & would have been better off going aftermarket from the start as you would have removed everthing SPT STS from it.

    By the way--I have the SPT STS.

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    On my '11 WRX Ltd sedan, I have the SPT STS with STI shift knob and the KB front and rear bushings, both were installed by dealer. I love the way it shifts, the height is perfect. On my previous STI's I had the COBB adjustable shifter w/ COBB bushings.
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    Registered User jd92677's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bryce919er View Post
    The "linkage" is the same. The SPT shortens the throw by relocating the pivot--just like the aftermarket do (to varying extents--some probably more) & the aftermarket shorten the overall lever height also. If you replace the bushings & the lever of your SPT STS you will have replaced everything that made it a STS & would have been better off going aftermarket from the start as you would have removed everthing SPT STS from it.

    By the way--I have the SPT STS.
    Are you sure this is true? Why would the kit contain all new linkage if all it took to make the SPT STS was the lever? The difference in install time makes me think that the linkage must be different. Your talking 15mins to replace the lever with no lift time and an hour or more of lift time to replace the linkage. Just seems counter-productive to me
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    Registered User SamXp's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by jd92677 View Post
    Are you sure this is true? Why would the kit contain all new linkage if all it took to make the SPT STS was the lever? The difference in install time makes me think that the linkage must be different. Your talking 15mins to replace the lever with no lift time and an hour or more of lift time to replace the linkage. Just seems counter-productive to me
    +1
    Post side by side pictures demonstrating that the linkage is the same. The OEM kit includes the following:

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    Quote Originally Posted by SamXp View Post
    +1
    Post side by side pictures demonstrating that the linkage is the same. The OEM kit includes the following:
    2011 wrx short shift ?

    Posts 22 & 24

    I have installed one & had them side by side---have you?

    Not to mention you can plainly see the "rods" have no effect on mechanical advantage. The lower one is the mount. It mounts to a post welded to the body of the car on the front & bolts to the car via tapped holes in the rear (via bushings)---does this change? No. The oher rod connects the lever to the trans. Does the trans move? No. The only thing that moves is the pivot height of the lever. See my post linked above. An aftermarket lever is easier to install if you skip bushings (which you should not do). If you do do (he he doo doo) bushings that means you removed the front & rear mounts---so all you would have to do is unhook the U joint & you could pull the whole thing out rods & all so the install is not really harder. Why does Subaru include the rods? Who knows. Maybe to make you think you are getting something special. Maybe to keep you from needing snap ring pliers or beating that ball out on older models. Maybe because they don't trust you to remove the front bushing & replace it with the somewhat firmer SPT front bushing that comes with the factory STS. Ever seen the SPT/Group N rear diff mount? That is the exact same piece of steel as stock but with firmer bushings--again Subaru selling you your stock part back again but with firmer bushings.

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    Registered User jd92677's Avatar
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    That does show that the pivot point is different, but I was wondering if the linkage was the same being that it seemed like a waste of time and money to reproduce it for no difference. And to answer your question about installing them, I worked as a tech for Subaru for 2 years, I've installed a few, including an aftermarket lever and bushing set in my own car, I just couldn't remember if they were the same, hence the question that really isn't answered yet and they very well could be the same but I guess it doesn't matter in the end. The SPT is a waste of money in my opinion either way
    Last edited by jd92677; 03-09-2011 at 08:01 PM.
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    Registered User SamXp's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bryce919er View Post
    I have installed one & had them side by side---have you?
    Nope, what are you? 17?
    All you needed to do is provide the side by side pics. Nothing wrong with someone holding one accountable. It's the ones that take people for their word and propagate that misinformation that are the problem.

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    So am I better off with the stock shifter and the SPT bushings, as far as a value?

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    hence the question that really isn't answered yet
    Quote Originally Posted by SamXp View Post
    Nope, what are you? 17?
    ...It's the ones that take people for their word and propagate that misinformation that are the problem.
    Which is exactly how this whole notion that the "linkage" is different on the SPT got started & is all over every Subaru board on the internet. As I stated the linkage produces no mechanical advantage it is simple physics. The only thing that can shorten throw is the height of the lever & the location of the pivot--& BOTH WILL INCREASE INPUT FORCE REQUIRED. It is answered right there in my linked post. If you want it explained further I will have to draw you a free body diagram. Since you brought up age are you old enough for that?

    So am I better off with the stock shifter and the SPT bushings, as far as a value?
    No one said that. I said if you replace the lever & bushings on a SPT there was no reason to have the SPT in the first place. Replacing the bushings is OK because they are cheap & will improve the SPT but once you replace the lever too you replaced everything that made it a SPT to begin with & would have been better off direct to aftermarket. It is as simple as this.

    SPT = firmer front & rear (only if you buy it separate) than stock with a shorter throw & the lever is the same height. Cost = $230 lever/front bushing + $20 rear bushing + ship.
    Aftermarket = firmer bushings than SPT & shorter throw than SPT with usually a shorter lever height as well (& if it isn't much shorter than stock than again it isn't much shorter throw than the SPT because you can only raise that pivot so far). Cost = $110 lever + $30 front bushing + $35 rear bushing + ship.
    Last edited by Bryce919er; 03-14-2011 at 07:14 PM.

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    Registered User SamXp's Avatar
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    Actually it has been a decade and a half since I studied FBD's so how about you indulge us with one and put this to bed, while you're volunteering to do the work!

    It appears the the links on the SPT STS are slightly shorter, to compensate for the higher pivot point and keep the shift action centered
    Last edited by SamXp; 03-19-2011 at 04:23 AM.

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