2011 Goes Thunk?
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This is a discussion on 2011 Goes Thunk? within the New Member Hangout forums, part of the Community - Meet other Enthusiasts category; Subaru newbie here with a dumb question... After 8 weeks of waiting, my red 5 door WRX limited arrived last ...

  1. #1
    Registered User WaveBye's Avatar
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    2011 Goes Thunk?

    Subaru newbie here with a dumb question...

    After 8 weeks of waiting, my red 5 door WRX limited arrived last week. I can tell it will be a fun & fairly quick car, even though I have been responsibly babying it through the nearly complete break-in period (except for today...).

    Anyway, my questions originate following a hard run through 1st & 2nd earlier today. After a full throttle blast through 1st, I very quickly shifted into 2nd still at full throttle, no different than I have done on past muscle cars. The launch in 2nd was VERY solid, but I noticed 2 things:
    1) the traction light blinked on a few times- wow, all four wheels on dry roads?
    2) there was a single, huge THUNK sound through the floorboard/firewall. The sound was reminiscent of my SVT Focus' motor hitting the firewall in similar situations, before I replaced the soft motor mounts. The WRX continued to drive fine afterwards, but I am wondering (1) if I should worry about this, (2) if it is going to happen every time, and (3) what is happening? My old Z07 vette made a horrible racket when the traction control kicked in- but the sound from the WRX seemed much worse.

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  3. #2
    Registered User EVO killer 1's Avatar
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    you probably over whelmed the soft rear diff mounts and or the motor mounts. id say that was just a bit too rough on the drive train. its never a good idea to drop your clutch petal that quick. an all wheel drive car isn't up to the abuse you can give a 2wd car(breaking traction instead of parts).if you make it a habit you'll destroy something eventually.
    168mph makes me giggle!!

  4. #3
    The Fruit mangostick's Avatar
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    I see a diff mount insert kit in your future.. check these out

    http://turninconcepts.com/product_in...roducts_id=629

    You need them, they're cheap.. need I say more?
    OBP 2010 5dr *traded*
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    My name is Shawn, I'm a Devout Practicalist and I'm addicted to flat4's
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    SUCH IS MANGO!

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    Quote Originally Posted by mangostick View Post
    I see a diff mount insert kit in your future.. check these out

    http://turninconcepts.com/product_in...roducts_id=629

    You need them, they're cheap.. need I say more?
    Wow!! That looks promising!! Do you have any more details about this? Any reviews? I did a search of the term in this forum but didn't get any good results.

    I have always been thinking about improving the 2011's throttle response.

    Thanks in advance!

  6. #5
    The Fruit mangostick's Avatar
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    I have em in my 2010 as well as the sti trans mount n kartboy subframe lockdown kit.. wont ever go back. Cleared up the jerky/squishy driveline issues.

    To give you an example of how well they work, my driveway is at a slight angle right, so backing up at low rpm it would always get jerky.. since the bushings.. nothing but smooth. Also, when letting out the clutch the engagement is super smooth. I can actually let the clutch out at 1200rpm feather gently and roll off the line. I dont have to rev it up to get it off the line smoothly. Every gear engagement/acceleration is solid and crisp too.. didn't do that before it always felt squishy on gear change. Keep in mind that that you guys have tighter subframe bushings in the 11's so may not see much from those but the diff mounts and trans mount make a huge difference.
    OBP 2010 5dr *traded*
    SWP 2013 FRS
    My name is Shawn, I'm a Devout Practicalist and I'm addicted to flat4's
    This page has had 1,666 visits
    SUCH IS MANGO!

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    @mangostick,

    Many thanks for the quick response! That sounds very interesting to me. How much did it cost to get it installed? Or did you do it yourself? I'm never an expert in this area so I will probably have to get it installed at shop.

    Thanks!

  8. #7
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    you can do it yourself! 10 minutes and a 14mm wrench!! it was my first mod as i too shifted to hard my first time and heard the rear diff nail the trunk. it sounded awful and i didnt want it happening again. so i got the Whiteline diff inserts and Perrin subframe lock down kit. if i had to do it over i wouldnt get the Perrin. there just solid polyurethane and they crush the OEM rubber together. the Whiteline insert and fit into the groves and i think this is a MUCH better design!! I have never heard the noise again. And this is even after many trips to the drag strip. I do take it easy on my shifting but sometimes down the track you get a little carried away trying to push a little harder/faster.

    So far zero problems, 360AWTQ, stock tranny and clutch. Also got the Group-N tranny mount and TIC cross member bushings.

    Everything I have is 100 times harder then stock!! Were talking rock vs. pudding OEM rubber. However im a huge skeptic. I believe nothing “really” works. I cant say its money well spent at times. Just because I don’t hear the bang anymore doesn’t mean it’s this huge deal that people talk about. So many people say “this one bushing made the difference, OMG its amazing!!!!” and I mean that for ALL upgraded pieces. Like shifter bushings front and rear. Ya it may feel 2% better but im not gonna have a stroke over it. all im saying is don’t get that “butt dyno”/ new part ego thing most get when they add something on. It feels like a million bucks but really its like $10.

  9. #8
    The Fruit mangostick's Avatar
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    Cant beat bushing upgrades though, they're cheap.. bang for the buck ratio is huge.. For the improvement I received it was money well spent (and very little money I might add).

    So why not change em? .. I did all mine myself, and they're not tough to do. The diff mount bushes you'll need more than a 14mm wrench for though.. one of those has to be torqued back to 80lb/ft... that aint comin off with hand tools (not on ramps laying on a garage floor anyway) however a 3/8 impact wrench made quick work of it. Its always good measure to use a proper torque wrench and put everything you removed back to factory torque spec. This is your suspension we're talkin about.. Items coming loose are NOT what you want. .. nor do you want stretched/broken bolts. Torque spec is important.

    I did my whole rear/trans mount in around an hour on ramps in my garage taking my sweet ass time. Any tech worth his salt with a lift can have that whole rear package put in and car back on the ground in 30min tops. Thats including the subframe lockdown/diff inserts. Good place for diy info is scoobiemods.com or worse off google search till you find a thread with info that pertains to your operation.

    You dont need to to do the trans mount, though I do highly recommend doing the shifter bushings (at very least the front one, but I did them all) they do make a good bit of difference in shifter feel/accuracy. Unless of course you like the sloppy wet noodle factory shift feel... I personally dont.

    There is always a drawback though.. changing the rear bushings did not increase nvh in any way but the shifter bushings and trans mount will. Not drastically but the car will certainly be more vocal.

    This is to be expected however when the factory rubber is literally soft enough to squish between your fingers. The factory trans mount.. yeah I can bend that around with ONE hand while holding it in same hand..... not cool. lol
    Last edited by mangostick; 12-08-2010 at 08:32 AM.
    OBP 2010 5dr *traded*
    SWP 2013 FRS
    My name is Shawn, I'm a Devout Practicalist and I'm addicted to flat4's
    This page has had 1,666 visits
    SUCH IS MANGO!

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    @mangostick,

    Wow, that's great information, I super appreciate it!

    Guess that'll be what I'll do in the coming break! Since I've already had the factory short throw shifter in it, I'll leave the shifter bushings as is this time.

    Since I'm a complete mechanic noob, I'll get the rear diff insert and some other bushing upgrades myself and get them installed in a shop. I've been thinking all the time trying to make the '11 tighter (weird, power has not been my priority at all...).

    Thanks again for all your help!

  11. #10
    The Fruit mangostick's Avatar
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    All the mods I've done so far are in my sig. Relatively little compared to cars previous.. but this one is new and has a warranty that I'd like to keep intact.. so I'm more to stick with driver feel/handling improvements. Its also my daily driver that see's a huge amount of mileage (35K mi in 14months).. so the more I can make it enjoyable to drive while keeping as reliable as possible the happier I am about it.

    For the money though, bushings are where its at. They are by far the cheapest improvement you can make and have the largest impact vs cost ratio.
    OBP 2010 5dr *traded*
    SWP 2013 FRS
    My name is Shawn, I'm a Devout Practicalist and I'm addicted to flat4's
    This page has had 1,666 visits
    SUCH IS MANGO!

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    Got it. Thanks again for the detailed help!

    Just one more (hopefully last) question: since I'm planning to get the parts and get them installed by a shop, do I need to go to a place that does subaru's, or just any decent car shop? How can I tell they know what I am trying to do? How can I know that they know the correct torque level for the stock parts and things like that? Should I give them some forum posts as instructions, or they automatically just knows how to get them done?

    Thanks!!

  13. #12
    The Fruit mangostick's Avatar
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    I'd got to a subaru only shop if you have one available. Worse off, find and print the diy install instructions and bring them with you when you go. We're not talkin brain work here.
    OBP 2010 5dr *traded*
    SWP 2013 FRS
    My name is Shawn, I'm a Devout Practicalist and I'm addicted to flat4's
    This page has had 1,666 visits
    SUCH IS MANGO!

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