This is a discussion on Buying 5-Door WRX 2011 ( need advice) within the New Member Hangout forums, part of the Community - Meet other Enthusiasts category; Originally Posted by AmateurX This is where I got stuck. I waited until March to look into buying a 2010, ...
If I could get a limited for $27.2 I would be ecstatic.
so always go through internet inquiry first, like through edmunds or the dealers website so they assume your shopping. and remember subarus have 3-4% hold back, meaning money behind the invoice. they wont always let you have al of that, I mean the price I got no other dealer around me would touch. So you have to find the one place try to get there numbers up and always buy at the end of the month. message me for any buying tips before you pull the trigger.
Sent a request for a quote out to 5 dealers in my area (VA)...got one back yesterday:
"Limited 2011 WRX sedan in WR blue: $29,720
SPT short throw shifter, shift Knob, SPT boost gauge: All three of these are available in a package called the: Sport Performance 1C: $870
XM satellite radio package: $427
List Price of Car Built to Spec: $31,017
Sale Price of your Factory Order Built to Spec: $29,456"
I asked him what the out the door price would be, and he said $30,752.
It looks like this is around $500 over invoice...I would assume I could do better than that once I start getting more quotes? I would really like to be out the door at $29,000...anyone think that's possible?
Let me just add something...
I was able to get my '11 base 5dr order for under invoice. And when we added in the short shifter kit, arm-rest extension, (and something else that I can't remember at this point) he gave me those at invoice/cost as well. I didn't ask for that or expect him to but that's what he did since he knew I had my numbers in front of me and did my homework. I was mostly adding those in just to throw him a bone for giving me the car under invoice but in the end I just got the armrest so win-win.
So you have some haggle room. If you're paying invoice or over, ask them to cut you a deal on the extras. See if you can get them for invoice/cost. There's not too much of a markup but it does add up.
Another bit of advice I can give which worked for me was telling them "a local guy on the internet forums said he got XYZ all for invoice. I wasn't sure if that was you or Dealer X but I'm looking for that same deal."
If they think $30k is going to walk out the door and across the street, they're not going to nit-pick over $200 or whatever. Or tell them Dealer X (whoever is the closest rival dealer) said they can order you a car for invoice + extras at cost + $500. They may be willing to match that for that $500 (and +1 to their car volume being sold = perks from Subaru).
Steve // 2010 Cadillac CTS-V // 2011 WRX hatchback (SOLD)
the knob included in the sport package is the STi knob...I'm not really a fan of it mostly because the car is not an STi and I feel that having an STi knob borders on ricey/fake. The STi knob is something like $120...I'll probably ask to swap out a momo option and save a few bucks.
the dealer was a bit lazy in showing me this, because I asked for each piece separately (short throw, knob, gauge) to point out the fact that I wanted a different knob...
I am picking up my WRX on Saturday but didn't get the door molding. If they do prevent door dings (which it seems like the should) I may get them. Would Subaru put them on after the fact, I think they were around 200 or so?
2011 Subaru WRX Limited 5-door; Satin White Pearl
Can I have my dealer install a short throw even though I picked the car up a month ago? This is a part that would typically be ordered correct? What is the advantage of the Kartboy over OEM short throw? Is the Kartboy difficult to install?
I personally think they look awful, and I'm not sure how much they will help with door dings. If you look at where they install the molding and where the side of the car sticks out (about 12" below the windows), it seems like that area is succeptable to dings with or without the molding.
The best case for getting the Suby STS is to have it installed at the port. I did this and got the shifter for 2% under invoice (VIP pricing) and I didn't have to pay any labor.
The KB STS is cheaper than the Suby and also reduces the throw distance more. The install is not to bad from what I've seen.
If you decide to do the KB, make sure to get the related bushings because these have as much or more impact that improves the feel of the shifter over the stock one.
Some web retailers offer a kit that includes the shifter and related bushings. Typically, the whole kit price is cheaper than the Suby shifter that has some, but not all of the same bushings. I won't post a link here, but you can PM for a link if interested.