cooked my clutch....
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This is a discussion on cooked my clutch.... within the New Member Hangout forums, part of the Community - Meet other Enthusiasts category; i am new to stick, and last night i absolutely fried my clutch I started from a stop and killed ...

  1. #1
    Registered User khawajakustoms's Avatar
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    cooked my clutch....

    i am new to stick, and last night i absolutely fried my clutch
    I started from a stop and killed it. I quickly(read: in a slight panic) started it back up and gave it more gas, but the car still bogged and almost died. Pissed, i revved to about 3k and slipped the clutch till I finally got the car into gear (about 7 seconds of clutch slippage) before i was even out of the small intersection i could smell it. i'd tried to start from 3rd gear instead of 1st. I let both the clutch and I chill out for about 10 minutes then drove the last mile to the restaurant.

    after an hour in the restaurant, I started the car back up and immediately could smell my clutch again. shouldnt the car have smelled fine? theres no way the clutch was still hot is there? is there anything that I should to to try to offset the damage that i did?

    and no, I will not be trying that stunt again

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    He simply abides. SD_GR's Avatar
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    You have two options.

    1. If any of the following is true:
    (a) The clutch slips (revs climb but the car does not accelerate
    (b) The throw-out bearing is noisy (there is a rattle or whirrrrr that goes away when the clutch pedal is pushed)
    (c) The car does not shift
    then replace the clutch

    2. If none of the above are true, drive the car.
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    Resident meany-rator 06wrx4me's Avatar
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    Clutch smell has always intrigued me. Think about it....the clutch is bolted to the flywheel and has an aluminum bell housing almost completely sealed around it, yet when you burn the clutch, the smell is instant a very potent. Where do the fumes escape from?

    Aside from my rant, I burnt the clutch a couple times in my Rex when it was new, acting like an asshat. Almost 50k miles no issues.
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    Registered User GarrettKoonsman's Avatar
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    That isn't me laughing at you i promise. I just remember when i did that same thing to my old boss's truck. Well i think the advice you've been given so far is good. And worst case scenario is you have to replace your clutch and join the club. I'd guess that well over half the people on here have replaced the clutch in their subbie. Well good luck with the car and dont get too down on yourself. Hopefully your clutch is still fine.
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    Quote Originally Posted by SD_GR View Post
    You have two options.

    1. If any of the following is true:
    (a) The clutch slips (revs climb but the car does not accelerate
    (b) The throw-out bearing is noisy (there is a rattle or whirrrrr that goes away when the clutch pedal is pushed)
    (c) The car does not shift
    then replace the clutch

    2. If none of the above are true, drive the car.


    This.

  7. #6
    He simply abides. SD_GR's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 06wrx4me View Post
    Where do the fumes escape from?
    It's not a closed system like you said. Some gearboxes have removable inspection covers that come off with a couple screws and allow flywheel viewing. I once owned a Mitsu with the AWD that I bought without the inspection cover; drove it for years with the flywheel exposed.
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    Registered User khawajakustoms's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by SD_GR View Post
    1. If any of the following is true:
    (a) The clutch slips
    (b) The throw-out bearing is noisy
    (c) The car does not shift
    then replace the clutch
    2. If none of the above are true, drive the car.
    I havent noticed any of these yet, but i'll pay attention just in case. Thanks!

    Quote Originally Posted by 06wrx4me View Post
    Where do the fumes escape from?
    uhoh... now im going to have to find an answer to this one.. you've intrigued me!
    Quote Originally Posted by GarrettKoonsman View Post
    That isn't me laughing at you i promise. I just remember when i did that same thing to my old boss's truck.
    my dad got a solid laugh out of it too. he had a couple stories for me about his first driving experiences

    now that i know what issues to watch out for, my only question is: why was i still able to smell my clutch an hour later?

  9. #8
    Registered User khawajakustoms's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by SD_GR View Post
    It's not a closed system like you said. Some gearboxes have removable inspection covers that come off with a couple screws and allow flywheel viewing. I once owned a Mitsu with the AWD that I bought without the inspection cover; drove it for years with the flywheel exposed.
    oooOoOOoOoOh! cool

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    Registered User AsILayDying's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by khawajakustoms View Post
    i am new to stick, and last night i absolutely fried my clutch
    I started from a stop and killed it. I quickly(read: in a slight panic) started it back up and gave it more gas, but the car still bogged and almost died. Pissed, i revved to about 3k and slipped the clutch till I finally got the car into gear (about 7 seconds of clutch slippage) before i was even out of the small intersection i could smell it. i'd tried to start from 3rd gear instead of 1st. I let both the clutch and I chill out for about 10 minutes then drove the last mile to the restaurant.

    after an hour in the restaurant, I started the car back up and immediately could smell my clutch again. shouldnt the car have smelled fine? theres no way the clutch was still hot is there? is there anything that I should to to try to offset the damage that i did?

    and no, I will not be trying that stunt again
    Well regardless of "clutch smell" it seems you have an issue that needs attention. Be alert of the situation and have it checked sooner then later.

    Quote Originally Posted by SD_GR View Post
    You have two options.

    1. If any of the following is true:
    (a) The clutch slips (revs climb but the car does not accelerate
    (b) The throw-out bearing is noisy (there is a rattle or whirrrrr that goes away when the clutch pedal is pushed)
    (c) The car does not shift
    then replace the clutch

    2. If none of the above are true, drive the car.
    I recently picked up my WRX and have been finding out that the car was owned by a young kid with upgrades and he beat the crap out of the car. I am actually having the clutch replaced today cause I had the issue of clutch slipping "Part A: of option 1 above." But I am upgrading to a Stage 2 Clutch cause I am already Stage II and plan to go just a little bit further and dont want to have to do the clutch again because of HP/TQ limits. But good luck with the car, and if I was you I would seriously have someone take a peek at whats going on with the car.
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    pffffffffffft your good - clutch probably stank because you opened it again......I could be wrong, but I have never heard of a new clutch going to poop on a 7sec burn..........I think even the most experienced driver on this forum smells clutch from time to time. Having said that - you will probably burn your clutch out faster than most with this car

  12. #11
    Registered User elscoobano20's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by GarrettKoonsman View Post
    That isn't me laughing at you i promise. I just remember when i did that same thing to my old boss's truck. Well i think the advice you've been given so far is good. And worst case scenario is you have to replace your clutch and join the club. I'd guess that well over half the people on here have replaced the clutch in their subbie. Well good luck with the car and dont get too down on yourself. Hopefully your clutch is still fine.
    Similar story, I learned stick on my dad's 2000 Boxster S and I DESTROYED his clutch. He literally said it was super soft after I was done with his car haha. Had to get the clutch replaced a few months later... if not weeks...

    Anyways I'm still new to driving stick and it just takes patience. One of the things I always screw up on is taking the clutch out all the way when I just begin to feel the car engage. I always try to remind myself to leave the clutch in as long as I can.

    Good luck!
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    Registered User wrx0131's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by decrypted View Post
    pffffffffffft your good - clutch probably stank because you opened it again......I could be wrong, but I have never heard of a new clutch going to poop on a 7sec burn..........I think even the most experienced driver on this forum smells clutch from time to time. Having said that - you will probably burn your clutch out faster than most with this car
    When i first got my exedy stage 1 clutch last yr i burned it for like 4 seconds at like 3500 rpms. It was on a super steep hill and i just couldn't get out of it. Since then, I hold out my clutch to where it grabs while having the brake held down, whenever im on a super steep hill.

    My clutch was never the same as it first was. Now it grabs super high, but still holds strong. I dont know if because i bought the clutch on ebay (it said exedy on the box) it burns alot easier than any clutch i have ever driven. EVERYONE that has driven my car has burned my clutch. I could smell it. It takes no more than 2000 rpms to start smelling it. I dont know...

    I have an ACT Street disc sitting at home waiting to be put it..
    Last edited by wrx0131; 06-22-2009 at 11:10 PM.
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    Registered User viperuws's Avatar
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    I have burned my clutch a few times. It happens. At around 10k miles my clutch seemed to lose some of its bite. I am not complaining too much because now it's a lot easier to drive smoothly and still grips when I want it to(no slippage).

    Remember...A clutch is cheap to replace...a transmission is not.

    Then again, replacing your seats cause they smell like burnt clutch might rack that cost up some.
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    Registered User Pavia's Avatar
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    OK, I've done exactly a similiar thing. Yes, you smoked your clutch. What you did was take the resins on your clutch, melted them and deposited them on your flywheel.

    When your clutch cools, being organic, stuff gathers on the flywheel and you start to brush the residue off your flywheel.

    Your clutch will heal itself after a few miles and still grab like new.

    Now, do this too many times or mod your car to exceed the hp of the clutch, and you will be looking at replacing it after 10k miles.

    However, my parting advice is take it easy on your tranny, let the clutch rebed itself, and you will be fine.
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    UnBanned Sinister's Avatar
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    If the clutch was a 100% closed system.. then where would all the dust go? they can't be.


    OP... you'll be fine. Just drive the car normally. You probably glazed the clutch face. When the clutch isn't fully engaged and there is a large amount of slippage... the clutch face glazes over. If you have an organic clutch, then the clutch face will need to be broken in again... with normal driving. It'll be back to normal in a week or so of normal driving.

    If the clutch face is not organic, or an organic blend... 9 times out of 10.. it's not recoverable. Luckily you're on a stock clutch, and you'll be able to recover the face of the clutch.

    You just need to drive gently and shift gears often so you can wear off the glazing. No hard launches.. and try to avoid hill starts if possible.. for safety's sake, and the clutch's sake.
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