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This is a discussion on ?s about 05 4eat sedan within the New Member Hangout forums, part of the Community - Meet other Enthusiasts category; Originally Posted by idipskoalmint If you plan to run an 18G turbo, you'll need 750cc injectors. Purchase your turbo through ...

  1. #31
    Registered User 4eat_Newbie's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by idipskoalmint View Post
    If you plan to run an 18G turbo, you'll need 750cc injectors. Purchase your turbo through Blouch, as it will save you $100 if you get it ceramic-coated, $200 if you don't (you should, though).

    I forgot to factor in a larger TMIC - my apologies. SSAC makes one for $200. It's not the best on the market, but it'll suit your needs fine. With an 18G turbo, you're in the territory of possibly adding a FMIC kit, which XSPower offers one for $325 shipped. However, with the FMIC, you'll need to purchase an intake (I'd run a K&N Typhoon SRI with this kit, personally), so that will add to your $$.

    I suggest you look into the 3-port BCS as well. I know I'm adding $$ to your list, but it will almost surely be beneficial (and in the grand scheme of things, this doesn't cost much).

    Don't do bold items:

    Buy OEM gaskets, not from Grimmspeed.

    Save the $$ you'd spend on the AP and get an open-source tune. This will save you $700 if you planned to purchase it new.

    Look into STRI DSD-SLM II gauges (they come in Amber or White) - this will save you $100 if you planned to purchase new.

    The LW pulley will save you $100-150 (you don't need to tune for this, so if you want to run one, hold off and purchase this down the road).

    That's my $$-shaving tips.
    I will purchase the 18G from Blouch....although grouppe-S has it for $800. Anyway, should I select any of the "options" Blouch offers besides the ceramic coating (which I will most definitely get)?

    As for a FMIC (I assume this means front mount intercooler), I would much rather stay with the stock setup if possible. If not, I would prefer to go with a top mount since it won't as much attention to my car, any recommendations there (again, only if it is absolutely necessary since I am looking to bring the total down not up).

    lastly, do the STRI DSD-SLM II come with mounting brackets like the Defi ones? Cause if not, they may come out to be more expensive in the end since I would have to purchase a pod.

    I have also deleted the COBB AP from list and going to go with an "open source tune" from AP.

    You guys are taking me to school on this.

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  3. #32
    Registered User 4eat_Newbie's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by idipskoalmint View Post
    The N1 exhaust is pretty loud - if you want something quieter, look into the Borla Hush (w/ 3" adapter)
    Wake the neighbors loud?

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    Master Baiter EJ257's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 4eat_Newbie
    Wake the neighbors loud?
    It's one of the louder exhausts - IIRC, it does not have a resonator.

    Quote Originally Posted by 4eat_Newbie
    I will purchase the 18G from Blouch....although grouppe-S has it for $800. Anyway, should I select any of the "options" Blouch offers besides the ceramic coating (which I will most definitely get)?

    As for a FMIC (I assume this means front mount intercooler), I would much rather stay with the stock setup if possible. If not, I would prefer to go with a top mount since it won't as much attention to my car, any recommendations there (again, only if it is absolutely necessary since I am looking to bring the total down not up).

    lastly, do the STRI DSD-SLM II come with mounting brackets like the Defi ones? Cause if not, they may come out to be more expensive in the end since I would have to purchase a pod.

    I have also deleted the COBB AP from list and going to go with an "open source tune" from AP.

    You guys are taking me to school on this.
    If you can get an 18G for $800, jump on it. Don't worry about the ceramic coating from Blouch (****, you can probably send it to Grimmspeed and have them CC it for $50).

    You'll really need an aftermarket I/C, as it will be the limiting factor if you stick with the OEM TMIC. Look into the SSAC one I linked you to (FMIC is not necessary).

    STRI gauges should come everything. If not, you can buy a Lotek (this is a good brand) A-pillar pod for $40.
    Last edited by EJ257; 11-25-2008 at 05:15 PM.
    2005 WRX STi (Mods | Virtual Dyno)

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  5. #34
    Registered User 4eat_Newbie's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by idipskoalmint View Post
    It's one of the louder exhausts - IIRC, it does not have a resonator.



    If you can get an 18G for $800, jump on it. Don't worry about the ceramic coating.

    You'll really need an aftermarket I/C, as it will be the limiting factor if you stick with the OEM TMIC. Look into the SSAC one I linked you to.

    STRI gauges will come with everything. You can buy a Lotek A-pillar pod for $40.
    Sounds good...I will work the numbers out and get back to you guys with an updated list.

  6. #35
    Registered User Micah's Avatar
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    Being catless isn't all that bad. Less weight as you are not carrying around a heavy cat. Better throttle response and power output as there is nothing impeding airflow. This also results in slightly better mpg. The smell is present and can be detected by people in traffic behind me when I'm heavy on the go pedal, but has never been noticed by anyone in my car. The noise is not overly loud, though I'm sure a good deal of that is thanks to the cat back exhaust. The soot is definitely present, but I only wash my car when it's really dirty - and the paint is black, so it's hard to tell how much is really coming out.
    Torch Red 2002 Chevrolet Corvette Z06 46k mi.
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    10/08/2006 - 14.089@103.01 (5-speed with well worn clutch, no launch)
    "Six stars gleaming, five speeds breaking, four tires chirping, three differentials working, two liters screaming, one turbo boosting... it's what makes a Subaru all-wheel-drive, all we'll drive."
    for Bugeye owners my BOV thread Service Manuals

  7. #36
    Registered User 4eat_Newbie's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Micah View Post
    Being catless isn't all that bad. Less weight as you are not carrying around a heavy cat. Better throttle response and power output as there is nothing impeding airflow. This also results in slightly better mpg. The smell is present and can be detected by people in traffic behind me when I'm heavy on the go pedal, but has never been noticed by anyone in my car. The noise is not overly loud, though I'm sure a good deal of that is thanks to the cat back exhaust. The soot is definitely present, but I only wash my car when it's really dirty - and the paint is black, so it's hard to tell how much is really coming out.
    Quote Originally Posted by idipskoalmint View Post
    It's one of the louder exhausts - IIRC, it does not have a resonator.



    If you can get an 18G for $800, jump on it. Don't worry about the ceramic coating from Blouch (****, you can probably send it to Grimmspeed and have them CC it for $50).

    You'll really need an aftermarket I/C, as it will be the limiting factor if you stick with the OEM TMIC. Look into the SSAC one I linked you to (FMIC is not necessary).

    STRI gauges should come everything. If not, you can buy a Lotek (this is a good brand) A-pillar pod for $40.
    OK guys,
    The updated list with both your input looks like this:

    Invidia Turbo Back Exhaust
    - Catted Downpipe
    - Cat Back N1 Cat Back
    I really like it and it comes with a silencer = $1019.32 at RallySportDirect

    GrimmSpeed coated Up Pipe = $224.96 (includes the gaskets since I was unable to find cheaper ones anywhere else) at GrimmSpeed
    Deatschwerks 750cc Top Feed Cobb Spec Injectors = $399 at RallySportDirect
    Walbro Fuel Pump Kit 255Lph = $99.95 at Grouppe-S
    TD05H Super 18G = $1095.00 at Blouch
    DSD-SLM II Boost Gauge = $155 at IA Performance
    DSD-SLM II EGT Gauge = $158 at IA Performance
    TurboXS Top Mount Intercooler = $749.95 at ScoobyTuners

    As for the tunning you both mentioned, I live in NJ and traveling to Tucson, Arizona to get my car tunned by AI is out.

    So it looks like I may need to add the COBB AP back to the list unless you know of someone in my area that offers a similar service.

    In the end the grand total comes out to just under $4k, this is without including the COBB AP if I should need it or the tunning service + installation of all the parts by PrecisionTuning or TurboTrix (will go with whomever gives me the best deal).

    Don't know if the wife will go for this price...might have to drop back down to the 16G and 650cc injectors, but I read that that this setup is only good for max high 200WHP...I don't want to limit my car to that cause you never know...bonus time is right around the corner

    Anyway, any suggestion on how I can trim some of the fat from the setup? or should I just go a head and go with the 16g and 650cc injectors? Also, is it really OK for me to go without an engine management system?

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    Just keep in mind 18G power is A LOT for the stock 4EAT tranny. like potential grind-those-clutchpacks-smooth power.

    Plus with 2.0L + 18G + stock TC= HUGE HUGE HUGE lag time. Like were talking no power until after 3,500 RPM at the earliest.

    Just don't build your motor beyond what your tranny can handle, and beyond what your willing to live with daily driving. Without any torque below 3,500 RPM, the 4EAT would truly make a sucky daily driver. I know you said your eventually going to get a better tranny, but at least make sure you CAN daily drive it.

    If i were you I would go stage 2 and enjoy how much it really wakes up your car, and save up and do bigger turbo + tranny at the same time.

  9. #38
    Registered User Micah's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by xsnapshot View Post
    Just keep in mind 18G power is A LOT for the stock 4EAT tranny. like potential grind-those-clutchpacks-smooth power.

    Plus with 2.0L + 18G + stock TC= HUGE HUGE HUGE lag time. Like were talking no power until after 3,500 RPM at the earliest.

    Just don't build your motor beyond what your tranny can handle, and beyond what your willing to live with daily driving. Without any torque below 3,500 RPM, the 4EAT would truly make a sucky daily driver. I know you said your eventually going to get a better tranny, but at least make sure you CAN daily drive it.

    If i were you I would go stage 2 and enjoy how much it really wakes up your car, and save up and do bigger turbo + tranny at the same time.
    +1 to this

    Go to precision tuning, have your exhaust components installed and get dyno tuned for what is widely regarded as stage 2, it's quite a step up from stock and won't cost too much. Consider their stage 2 brake upgrade, engine mounts, rear sway bar, rear endlinks, lightweight crank pulley. If you wanna hit the suspension more then look at a set of springs or go for coilovers. All of these in one shot should greatly change the car. One sentance at a time, if you hit them in order wouldn't be a bad route either.
    Torch Red 2002 Chevrolet Corvette Z06 46k mi.
    Black 2002 Subaru Impreza WRX 6-speed 94k mi. my mod list
    10/08/2006 - 14.089@103.01 (5-speed with well worn clutch, no launch)
    "Six stars gleaming, five speeds breaking, four tires chirping, three differentials working, two liters screaming, one turbo boosting... it's what makes a Subaru all-wheel-drive, all we'll drive."
    for Bugeye owners my BOV thread Service Manuals

  10. #39
    Registered User 4eat_Newbie's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Micah View Post
    +1 to this

    Go to precision tuning, have your exhaust components installed and get dyno tuned for what is widely regarded as stage 2, it's quite a step up from stock and won't cost too much. Consider their stage 2 brake upgrade, engine mounts, rear sway bar, rear endlinks, lightweight crank pulley. If you wanna hit the suspension more then look at a set of springs or go for coilovers. All of these in one shot should greatly change the car. One sentance at a time, if you hit them in order wouldn't be a bad route either.
    Quote Originally Posted by xsnapshot View Post
    Just keep in mind 18G power is A LOT for the stock 4EAT tranny. like potential grind-those-clutchpacks-smooth power.

    Plus with 2.0L + 18G + stock TC= HUGE HUGE HUGE lag time. Like were talking no power until after 3,500 RPM at the earliest.

    Just don't build your motor beyond what your tranny can handle, and beyond what your willing to live with daily driving. Without any torque below 3,500 RPM, the 4EAT would truly make a sucky daily driver. I know you said your eventually going to get a better tranny, but at least make sure you CAN daily drive it.

    If i were you I would go stage 2 and enjoy how much it really wakes up your car, and save up and do bigger turbo + tranny at the same time.
    First of all I would like to thank you both for all you input, it has been extremely helpful.
    Secondly, since you mentioned the current mod list = major turbo lag and make for a poor daily driver, I will drop back down to the 16g + 650cc injectors and postpone the TMIC…this should knock off major $$$ from the bill and still give me what I’m looking for. I might also add either a brake upgrade or hit the suspensions to give my rex a more aggressive stand if I have some $ left over. I’m going to contact PrecisionTuning and see what they quote me for the total install + tuning…..Thanks again for your help guys.

  11. #40
    Master Baiter EJ257's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 4eat_Newbie
    First of all I would like to thank you both for all you input, it has been extremely helpful.
    Secondly, since you mentioned the current mod list = major turbo lag and make for a poor daily driver, I will drop back down to the 16g + 650cc injectors and postpone the TMIC…this should knock off major $$$ from the bill and still give me what I’m looking for. I might also add either a brake upgrade or hit the suspensions to give my rex a more aggressive stand if I have some $ left over. I’m going to contact PrecisionTuning and see what they quote me for the total install + tuning…..Thanks again for your help guys.
    You'll need an aftermarket TMIC, even with a 16G - again, look into the SSAC one (it's a TXS knock-off) to save $$
    2005 WRX STi (Mods | Virtual Dyno)

    Resident Tuner @ WTF Tuning, LLC

    "Never trust anything that bleeds for a week and lives ..."

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  12. #41
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    Quote Originally Posted by idipskoalmint View Post
    You'll need an aftermarket TMIC, even with a 16G - again, look into the SSAC one (it's a TXS knock-off) to save $$
    Is getting the SSAC TMIC really worth it? I would much rather hold off till April and get either the TurboXS or APS one since I they are more reputable brands. Also, is it OK to go without a engine management at this point, can open-source tuning be done without one? and if I hold off on the TMIC till April, would I have to retune the setup?

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    why don't you just gut the stock uppipe. It's already wrapped in heatshields and has perfect fitment. Then you can apply that $200+ to getting a TMIC. Plus it will still pass a visual inspection.

    Definitely get the TMIC though.

  14. #43
    Registered User Micah's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 4eat_Newbie View Post
    Is getting the SSAC TMIC really worth it? I would much rather hold off till April and get either the TurboXS or APS one since I they are more reputable brands. Also, is it OK to go without a engine management at this point, can open-source tuning be done without one? and if I hold off on the TMIC till April, would I have to retune the setup?
    FOR THE LAST TIME

    You do not need to purchase an AP. Open Source software is free and can be loaded with a tactrix cable which they have at precision tuning. Please follow this link and do some reading.

    RomRaider - Open Source ECU Tools | Documentation / Getting Started

    Also, the stock TMIC with an upgraded turbo is going to get heat soaked fast. Look online for a used STI TMIC if you want to save some money.
    Torch Red 2002 Chevrolet Corvette Z06 46k mi.
    Black 2002 Subaru Impreza WRX 6-speed 94k mi. my mod list
    10/08/2006 - 14.089@103.01 (5-speed with well worn clutch, no launch)
    "Six stars gleaming, five speeds breaking, four tires chirping, three differentials working, two liters screaming, one turbo boosting... it's what makes a Subaru all-wheel-drive, all we'll drive."
    for Bugeye owners my BOV thread Service Manuals

  15. #44
    Registered User wrx0131's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 4eat_Newbie View Post
    OK guys,
    The updated list with both your input looks like this:

    Invidia Turbo Back Exhaust
    - Catted Downpipe
    - Cat Back N1 Cat Back
    I really like it and it comes with a silencer = $1019.32 at RallySportDirect

    GrimmSpeed coated Up Pipe = $224.96 (includes the gaskets since I was unable to find cheaper ones anywhere else) at GrimmSpeed
    Deatschwerks 750cc Top Feed Cobb Spec Injectors = $399 at RallySportDirect
    Walbro Fuel Pump Kit 255Lph = $99.95 at Grouppe-S
    TD05H Super 18G = $1095.00 at Blouch
    DSD-SLM II Boost Gauge = $155 at IA Performance
    DSD-SLM II EGT Gauge = $158 at IA Performance
    TurboXS Top Mount Intercooler = $749.95 at ScoobyTuners

    As for the tunning you both mentioned, I live in NJ and traveling to Tucson, Arizona to get my car tunned by AI is out.

    So it looks like I may need to add the COBB AP back to the list unless you know of someone in my area that offers a similar service.

    In the end the grand total comes out to just under $4k, this is without including the COBB AP if I should need it or the tunning service + installation of all the parts by PrecisionTuning or TurboTrix (will go with whomever gives me the best deal).

    Don't know if the wife will go for this price...might have to drop back down to the 16G and 650cc injectors, but I read that that this setup is only good for max high 200WHP...I don't want to limit my car to that cause you never know...bonus time is right around the corner

    Anyway, any suggestion on how I can trim some of the fat from the setup? or should I just go a head and go with the 16g and 650cc injectors? Also, is it really OK for me to go without an engine management system?
    200whp max?? i have a 16g and i put down 304whp

    ALso you can get a used STi top mount for like 300-350 bucks, and it will do just fine

    I dont know alot about the 4eat tranny but i do know that the 5spd is infamous for not being able to handle high amounts of horsepower

  16. #45
    Registered User wrx0131's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Micah View Post
    FOR THE LAST TIME

    You do not need to purchase an AP. Open Source software is free and can be loaded with a tactrix cable which they have at precision tuning. Please follow this link and do some reading.

    RomRaider - Open Source ECU Tools | Documentation / Getting Started

    Also, the stock TMIC with an upgraded turbo is going to get heat soaked fast. Look online for a used STI TMIC if you want to save some money.
    yeah....also its good to look for an aftermarket heat shield because the stock one will not fit with an upgraded turbo, and then if you do get a TMIC, it will get heat soaked

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