First Time at the Drag Strip
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This is a discussion on First Time at the Drag Strip within the Motorsports Talk forums, part of the Community - Meet other Enthusiasts category; I will be going to the drag strip for the first time Thursday and wanted to know anything that anyone ...

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    Registered User 2005sti's Avatar
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    First Time at the Drag Strip

    I will be going to the drag strip for the first time Thursday and wanted to know anything that anyone could tell me to help make my first experience a positive one.

    I will be going to Piedmont Drag way in North Carolina to run my Stage 2 2005 WRX Sedan a few times. Piedmont Dragway is 1/8th mile. I have never ran a car down the strip, so this is going to be a learning experience for me. I just want any tips to launching, shifting, etc.. I would also like to know what kind of times I should be aiming for.

    Car Bio:

    2005 WRX Sedan
    Stage 2 Opensource Tune
    GReddy UP
    HSK DP
    Borla Catback
    APS CAI
    GM 3-Port EBCS

    On a Mustang Dyno is put down 234AWHP and 272 AWTQ.

    Any help and information is greatly appreciated!

    (:
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    2007 Honda Civic Si (Stock) - Traded it for ^^^

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    "Supreme Subaphile Extraordinairre" ninefourteener's Avatar
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    Keep as little gas in it as possible to save weight

    Take out all unnecessary weight - especially the spare tire

    AVOID THE BURNOUT PUDDLE

    Slip the clutch... don't dump it unless you want to be towed home with broken gears.

    Keep the intercooler as COLD as possible.. dump ice on it if you can.

    The longer you idle waiting in line... the hotter your intercooler will get. Turn it off and push it through the line if you have to.

    Hope this helps
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  4. #3
    Registered User iDrove's Avatar
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    Go in with no expectations and just HAVE FUN.
    Be safe, and follow what ninefourteener said above. I put ice cubes in my IC sprayer too!
    2008 WRB WRX: Blouch 18G-XT, Perrin FMIC, Perrin Turbo Inlet, DW 750cc injectors, Invidia catless downpipe, Perrin Catback, TurboXS CAI, Mach V SS brakelines, Hawk HPS Brake pads, ATE Superblue, NGK one-step colder sparkplugs, Mach V 3-port BCS, Prosport boost gauge and wideband A/F gauge, STi fuel pump, WL Steering Rack bushings, Perrin 25mmFSB/22mm adjustable RSB, Kartboy endlinks, TGV deletes, Protune by Dan @ Mach V Motorsports...
    330WHP/342WTQ

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    zax
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    Quote Originally Posted by 2005sti View Post
    On a Mustang Dyno is put down 234AWHP and 272 AWTQ.
    That is a tremendous amount of torque for a stage 2 2.0L. Have you done any P&P work to the turbo?
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    Registered User 2005sti's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by zax View Post
    That is a tremendous amount of torque for a stage 2 2.0L. Have you done any P&P work to the turbo?
    Nope. No P&P work.
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    zax
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    Quote Originally Posted by 2005sti View Post
    Nope. No P&P work.
    wow. Those are typical TQ numbers for a stage 2 2.5L. I'm very interested how you managed to summon that much torque out of a 2.0L
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    Registered User 2005sti's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by zax View Post
    wow. Those are typical TQ numbers for a stage 2 2.5L. I'm very interested how you managed to summon that much torque out of a 2.0L
    As stated in my first post my setup is:

    GM 3-Port EBCS
    APS CAI
    GReddy UP
    HKS DP
    Borla Catback

    Stage 2 tune by Barry Bodine at Draco Performance. The tune is set to 20 psi tapering down to 12 psi.

    If I had a scanner I would post up my Dyno Sheet.
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    zax
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    Quote Originally Posted by 2005sti View Post
    As stated in my first post my setup is:

    GM 3-Port EBCS
    APS CAI
    GReddy UP
    HKS DP
    Borla Catback

    Stage 2 tune by Barry Bodine at Draco Performance. The tune is set to 20 psi tapering down to 12 psi.

    If I had a scanner I would post up my Dyno Sheet.
    I'm not questioning your numbers man, I can see you're getting defensive. No need.

    I'm just surprised by those torque numbers with those supporting mods on a 2.0L. I have seen stage 2 numbers in the 240 ft. pounds but never anything as high as 270 ft. pounds without performing some sort of P&P and balancing on the turbine.

    EDIT:

    Ah, I see you have increased the boost to 20 PSI from the 16 PSI standard peak pressure at stage 2. That answers that question.
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    Registered User 2005sti's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by zax View Post
    I'm not questioning your numbers man, I can see you're getting defensive. No need.

    I'm just surprised by those torque numbers with those supporting mods on a 2.0L. I have seen stage 2 numbers in the 240 ft. pounds but never anything as high as 270 ft. pounds without performing some sort of P&P and balancing on the turbine.

    EDIT:

    Ah, I see you have increased the boost to 20 PSI from the 16 PSI standard peak pressure at stage 2. That answers that question.
    Sorry, I didnt mean to come off like that. :P I wasnt getting defensive. Just stating my information.

    Again, sorry for the tone.
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    UnBanned Sinister's Avatar
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    Don't slam gears. Slow is smooth, smooth is fast.

    It's better to slip the clutch than drop it. You'll find the medium after quite a few runs.. but until you figure it out, it's better to glaze the clutch than blow out your transmission
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    UnBanned Sinister's Avatar
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    keep your hood up while waiting in line. I have a spray bottle that I fill w/ 50/50 rubbing alcohol/water that I soak the IC with
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    "Supreme Subaphile Extraordinairre" ninefourteener's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Sinister View Post
    I have a spray bottle that I fill w/ 50/50 rubbing alcohol/water that I soak the IC with
    AAAAAAAHHHHHHHHHHHHHH!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

    You're spraying rubbing alcohol on a hot engine????
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  14. #13
    UnBanned Sinister's Avatar
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    it's 50/50... and it's going on the IC. mix .5 isopropyl with equal parts water (that's only .25 alcohol) and try to light it on fire my friend.

    Isopropyl (like all alcohol) is homogeneous with water. A homogeneous solution with 1/4 of the actual percentage being alcohol isn't able to light on fire. Now I do understand that the flammability temp of alcohol is lowered when it's heated but the actual point in which the alcohol becomes flammable is below room temp! (it evaps at room temp... right?). On a hot engine the water and alcohol evaporate together, and the 3 parts water vapor to 1 part vaporized alcohol raise the flash point of alcohol to an impossible point to ignite. On just a few hundred degree exterior of an engine, that's not going to happen. Impressive part about water... It expands 70X when vaporized... so there is actually Little to No oxygen available to burn said alcohol.

    So why do I do this? Because alcohol evaporates quicker, and won't spontaneously ignite between the temp of the IC and the 201 degree boiling point of water (I'm at altitude). So via evaporation the alcohol cools the IC and evaporates VERY quickly... but the water stays on the IC and absorbs copious amounts of heat before evaporating. That's why many people use windshield wiper fluid as an intercooler sprayer. (it's methanol instead of isopropyl... but both have low flash points. Hell.. Methanol is only 70 degrees... but that IS NOT it's spontaneous ignition temperature. two VERY different things)

    If you want to talk more about fire... I'd love to I was an aircraft firefighter for 4 years, and a HUGE part of my job was to know the chemicals used around the airfield and the physics behind fire and the flammability of the chemicals.

    Edited: to add more info and rephrase things for clarity
    Last edited by Sinister; 08-14-2010 at 02:20 AM. Reason: Edited to add "Edited message"
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    Registered User 2005sti's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Sinister View Post
    it's 50/50... and it's going on the IC. mix .5 isopropyl with equal parts water (that's only .25 alcohol) and try to light it on fire my friend.

    Isopropyl (like all alcohol) is homogeneous with water. A homogeneous solution with 1/4 of the actual percentage being alcohol isn't able to light on fire. Now I do understand that the flammability temp of alcohol is lowered when it's heated but the actual point in which the alcohol becomes flammable is below room temp! (it evaps at room temp... right?). On a hot engine the water and alcohol evaporate together, and the 3 parts water vapor to 1 part vaporized alcohol raise the flash point of alcohol to an impossible point to ignite. On just a few hundred degree exterior of an engine, that's not going to happen. Impressive part about water... It expands 70X when vaporized... so there is actually Little to No oxygen available to burn said alcohol.

    So why do I do this? Because alcohol evaporates quicker, and won't spontaneously ignite between the temp of the IC and the 201 degree boiling point of water (I'm at altitude). So via evaporation the alcohol cools the IC and evaporates VERY quickly... but the water stays on the IC and absorbs copious amounts of heat before evaporating. That's why many people use windshield wiper fluid as an intercooler sprayer. (it's methanol instead of isopropyl... but both have low flash points. Hell.. Methanol is only 70 degrees... but that IS NOT it's spontaneous ignition temperature. two VERY different things)

    If you want to talk more about fire... I'd love to I was an aircraft firefighter for 4 years, and a HUGE part of my job was to know the chemicals used around the airfield and the physics behind fire and the flammability of the chemicals.

    Edited: to add more info and rephrase things for clarity
    Wow.

    :bows:
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    2007 Honda Civic Si (Stock) - Traded it for ^^^

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    Registered User dbya rx's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Sinister View Post
    it's 50/50... and it's going on the IC. mix .5 isopropyl with equal parts water (that's only .25 alcohol) and try to light it on fire my friend.

    Isopropyl (like all alcohol) is homogeneous with water. A homogeneous solution with 1/4 of the actual percentage being alcohol isn't able to light on fire. Now I do understand that the flammability temp of alcohol is lowered when it's heated but the actual point in which the alcohol becomes flammable is below room temp! (it evaps at room temp... right?). On a hot engine the water and alcohol evaporate together, and the 3 parts water vapor to 1 part vaporized alcohol raise the flash point of alcohol to an impossible point to ignite. On just a few hundred degree exterior of an engine, that's not going to happen. Impressive part about water... It expands 70X when vaporized... so there is actually Little to No oxygen available to burn said alcohol.

    So why do I do this? Because alcohol evaporates quicker, and won't spontaneously ignite between the temp of the IC and the 201 degree boiling point of water (I'm at altitude). So via evaporation the alcohol cools the IC and evaporates VERY quickly... but the water stays on the IC and absorbs copious amounts of heat before evaporating. That's why many people use windshield wiper fluid as an intercooler sprayer. (it's methanol instead of isopropyl... but both have low flash points. Hell.. Methanol is only 70 degrees... but that IS NOT it's spontaneous ignition temperature. two VERY different things)

    If you want to talk more about fire... I'd love to I was an aircraft firefighter for 4 years, and a HUGE part of my job was to know the chemicals used around the airfield and the physics behind fire and the flammability of the chemicals.

    Edited: to add more info and rephrase things for clarity
    with all your amazing knowlege, you can probably figure out how i can light my farts without burning my ass...

    seriously tho, impressive knowledge. i dont think i would have the balls to spray any amount of alcohol mixed with anything anywhere near the motor of a car
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