Hey, i know this has probably been asked before, but what is the best way to drift and powerslide in an AWD car. I know how to do it in a RWD, and after the drift starts in an AWD i can do it, but what is the best way to induce the drift. I have heard that pulling the e-break is bad for the diff because it gets the wheels spinning at diffrent speeds. If u cant do it by pulling the break, how can u?
rastafarian flick because you'd need to be smoking something to think of performing a scandinavian flick on public roads with the AWD system designed to grip, grip, and more grip
:rotfl::rotfl::rotfl:dude, i knew that there was a reason i have never heard of it before. the **** is funny. but seriously though, what if it was not on an open road, what would u seggest.
hmm.. on asphalt? If you want to kill yourself, perhaps.. you have to be going awfully fast to break loose on a dry road.
But if it I were to venture a guess, I'd say bad tires (think snow tires or stockers RE92s) + stiff rear sway bar + wet or snow covered, empty parking lot and you should be able to get some 4-wheel drift. A dirt field would be much more fun. Dry asphalt is just asking for trouble, IMO.
Like what 06wrx4me said: It'd be brake hard, turn, power lift-off to break the rear loose (using the clutch - want to keep revs up). When I've gotten all the rotation I can from the lift-off oversteer, I'd pop out clutch and continue with the turn.
E-brake is good for hairpin turns.. but the surface has to be slippy already. Unlikely to work on dry. The idea is to lock up the rears to break them loose.
Like everyone says, don't e-brake on roads.. it's really only useful for hairpins and how many of those do you come across? Unlike WRC cars, our cars don't automatically disengage the rear power when applying the e-brake. Also, our e-brakes are drums, so are much weaker than theirs. Try it on dirt, though - it's fun. Remember to put your clutch in or it won't work.
I've used the e-brake on some slippy low-speed asphalt hairpins just for un but it's really rare to find an opportunity for it, and it's not dramatic. I might have a tiny bit of 4-wheel drift coming out of a corner, but nothing that requires countersteer, which is what I'm guessing you're after.
E-brake is good for hairpin turns.. but the surface has to be slippy already. Unlikely to work on dry. The idea is to lock up the rears to break them loose.
Like everyone says, don't e-brake on roads.. it's really only useful for hairpins and how many of those do you come across? Unlike WRC cars, our cars don't automatically disengage the rear power when applying the e-brake. Also, our e-brakes are drums, so are much weaker than theirs. Try it on dirt, though - it's fun. Remember to put your clutch in or it won't work.
That never worked so well in my WRX - wants to lock up the center diff therefore applying braking to the fronts as well. IIRC STi's have a switch that diengages the diff when pulling the ebrake.
I used to powerslide my WRX on dry roads all the time. Just get into a corner really hot, get the nose to tuck in and goose it and you'll slide. Probably off the road or into oncoming traffic with the level of experience it sounds like you have. But you will slide.
LOL at the Hamster: "I may have overcooked that a bit". LOL
You can do it on asphalt you just have to be going damn fast!
My neighbor was laughing at (with) me the other day because I did the Finnish Flick to get onto our street in a heavy snow storm and my son was in the passenger seat and (unbeknownst to me) he was waving his fist around in the air silently cheering. LOL.
BTW, the flick was poorly executed and slowed me way down (late for my date with the apex) but at least it was entertaining......
okay i got a question, ive heard that the STI's can be hooked up to a computer and with the right programs they can turn it from AWD to just RWD by changing the power ratio to 0% up front 100% in the rear. I coulda swore i read it on a car and driver article too.
Would be a lot easier to go do some weekend drifting that way than with an EVO where you gotta remove the front axles and modify alot of stuff.
The center diff in the STI can lock and go 50/50 or it can run open and go 35/65 (these numbers represent %'s front/rear). The DCCD varies the rate of lock up and thus biases more power to the front as needed. However, I do not believe there is any way to put 100% to the rear(or to the front for that matter).
okay i got a question, ive heard that the STI's can be hooked up to a computer and with the right programs they can turn it from AWD to just RWD by changing the power ratio to 0% up front 100% in the rear. I coulda swore i read it on a car and driver article too.
okay maybe im just slow, but i didnt see on there that you could make it so that the front wheels dont get power and the rear wheels get all the power? Can you do that?
i looked at the 350z but i cant take having no backseat. And ive become attached to the subie, so if i have to deal with AWD oh well ill survive. One day there will be a way to do what i'd like to do.
The Infiniti G35 has a backseat. It's pretty much the same car. 9 inches longer wheelbase if memory serves. I have a coworker who has a 2005 G35 that is bone stock. We've traded keys before and the 350z with it's 287hp/274tq engine is faster than the G35 with it's 300hp/260tq. I would imagine the G35 probably weighs quite a big more with all the nice stuff inside, plus the backseat, and the large rims.
I'm sure either of them could be used for drifting.
yeah im pretty sure of that, i knew that if there was a way to put 100% of the power to the rear it would still probably tear things up, and i was prepared to face the consequences you know. But since it cant itll be okay, im not worried.
80's Toyota Corolla/AE86? I tried one out at our local rallycross and woohoo it was fun getting that tail out. Very easy to control. It's got a back seat, too
I have DCCD in my 2002 WRX, it cost me $3200 for the trans and associated/required components, then I had to buy a DCCD controller from www.dccdpro.com (I have the Auto unit with OEM knob) which I think was like $275 or $375, and then all the labor on top of it.
It depends who you ask. Many of my family and friends are appalled at what I spend on cars. Still there are some who understand that it's all about fun.
Was it worth it?
Well, if you came to me in October 2005 when I was buying my bugeye and told me: "I'm from the future, you're going to put over $27k into that car between parts and labor", then I would have bought an STI.
But, reality states otherwise. I bought the car stock, and intended to leave it stock. That lasted for about 8 weeks. Then I did the brakes, then some perrin hoses and uppipe with the AP. Then I got my TBE and flashed to stage 2. Then I did the suspension. Then I upgraded the turbo. Then I replaced the clutch. Then I broke the trans. Then I replaced the trans. All of these steps were separated by weeks and sometimes months. It's been fun each step along the way. Well, not so much when I broke the transmission, but even that worked out in the end as I found a decent deal on and an excuse for a six speed.
With the STI, I'd have a much better platform for monitoring, but I would have spent an additional 20k on the car at the time of purchase. Which would have left much less money available for modding as it would be going into my monthly car payments. I'd have the boy racer/ricer looks of the STI which I don't care for so I likely would have done a trunk swap with a local forum member for a WRX trunk. Insurance on the STI would be a great deal higher than it is on my WRX.
I'm happy with how things wound up. My WRX is understated, and reliable. It looks stock, so I don't need to worry about cops or ricers harassing me. It's the best daily driver I've had yet.
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