Hmm. I will start with the instrument cluster, and work my way out to your door switches. First, it is a resistor, you can experiment with them, but 2.2KOhm seems like the standard. You want to make sure that the resistor is soldered to the positive lead (typically the longer one on a raw LED, otherwise, using a 9v battery and terminals, test to see what leads are the positive on an aftermarket "dash kit" type LED. Don't test a raw LED with a battery, it'll burn out in seconds or less.
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