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This is a discussion on Canon DSLR help within the Member Show-Off & Photography forums, part of the Community - Meet other Enthusiasts category; Originally Posted by TurbeauxREX no RAW for me. sRGB is required by the printer that I use through exposuremanager for ...

  1. #16
    Registered User c00lbeans's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by TurbeauxREX View Post
    no RAW for me. sRGB is required by the printer that I use through exposuremanager for on-line sales.

    Also, it seems that everything I read on camera setup (1D-series Canon), sRGB was the recommended color space. This includes set up info from Sports Illustrated and hundreds of pro sport and PJ shooters

    Curtis
    1. Shoot raw. You can Batch process hundreds of images and color correct them instantly with raw. Its much faster then making an action to correct a bunch of Jpgs. Plus if you have to reopen and manually ajust a few you wont lose pixil information from repeatedly opening and compressing a jpeg. RAW really isn't that complicated or hard. It just takes up disk space and you have to use bridge or photo-mechanic to view the files.

    2. Adobe1998 is the industry standard. Its a much bigger color space then sRGB, Especially in the blue and greens, which is what the sky is. sRGB is mostly for web, becuase most web browsers cant display the full range of adobe98(in firefox or explorer an sRGB image will have more contrast and saturation then adobe98, Basicly IE and FF convert all pictures to sRGB so if you know how to over process an Adobe98 image it will look good in IE). Most sports shooters are shooting for web so they use sRGB, or use adobe98 then convert to sRGB.

    For normal viewing on a computer, or printing with high quality ink jets adobe98 will stand out and create much better colors. Its always better to convert to sRGB then have to convert to Adobe98. You always have to resize your photos for web or for printing. so its not hard to convert the color profile when you do that.

    If your outputting to web or a 'high end' laser like a Fuji Fronteir that they use at wolf or ritz camera use sRGB.

    If its to a high quality Inkjet, or a real CMYK press. use adobe98

    But all if this dosnt really mater unless your color settings are set right. As you work in photoshop you may or may not accedently hit ctrl + Y and turn on Proof colors. If this is on and you have no idea what it is. your color correcting is going to be messed up for a long time untill you figure it out or accdently turn it off one day. So heres how to use it

    Ill show you how to make a Adobe98 image look good for web.

    1. First make sure your color prefs in photoshop look like this, And that your monitors color space is set to Adobe98(right click desk top>prefs> settings..... heres a picture.



    2. Open a picture. hopefull its already in Adobe98 but if not photoshop will ask you to change it. so change it adobe98.

    3 Hit cntl + y or make sure proof colors is checked. Then click custom proof set up and select sRGB. This will make all the photos you work on in photoshop look like they're in the sRGB. So if you leave this on, every picture you work with will be toned for what ever the proof set up is selected and will look much diff(if saved color profile is diff from the proof) once its saved and viewed with something other then photoshop. As you can see this can really Ef up color correction if you forget about it.


    4. Now that your Adobe image looks like sRGB (less saturated) use levels and saturation or whatever to tone and make the image look better. Toggle ctrl + y and look at the difference. Now you can save the image, save one as an Adobe98 jpeg and save the other as a sRGB jgep. In IE and FF the two images will look the same but when you view the image normally on your computer or print it on an ink jet it the Adobe will look over saturated a bit.


    Summary:
    If you take a lot of pictures for web, you can set the work space to sRGB in photoshop and your camera. But if you want to keep the color quality of adobe98, set your camera and photoshop to Adobe 98. When you open a file that you know will be saved for web then simply then turn on Proof colors set to sRGB(quick key command ctrl + y) and it will mask the adobe colors. Tone the image. Then when you resize and save just convert it to sRGB. OR even easyer use the save for web option under file, which you should, it auto converts your picture to sRGB and gives you a quality preview of the diff jpeg compression settings so you get the smallest file size with good quality. You will then have an origonal in adobe98 and a small web picture in sRGB. play around with it, become familiar with the settings.
    Last edited by c00lbeans; 11-07-2006 at 06:12 PM.

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  3. #17
    Registered User TurbeauxREX's Avatar
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    Todd,

    Thanks a lot for the tutorial. Since I'm rather old it's gonna take me a while to digest it. I'll shoot some RAW files and give it a go.

    Thanks again.

    Curtis

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