KRISK's Rockin 2013 WRX Torqued Performance Tuned Daily Driver
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This is a discussion on KRISK's Rockin 2013 WRX Torqued Performance Tuned Daily Driver within the Member Show-Off & Photography forums, part of the Community - Meet other Enthusiasts category; I bought my 2013 Crystal Black Silica WRX Sedan (basic model w/subaru short shifter) on 9/21/2012! Why? Though I have ...

  1. #1
    Registered User krisk's Avatar
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    KRISK's Rockin 2013 WRX Torqued Performance Tuned Daily Driver

    I bought my 2013 Crystal Black Silica WRX Sedan (basic model w/subaru short shifter) on 9/21/2012!

    Though I have read a lot it was not always clear on what mods would do what to the car's performance.

    Very few folks seemed to have a stock dyno pull as an example. I hope these posts help others enjoy their WRX!
    My updates will start slow but overtime my posts should really help document how various mods can really improve the cars performance.

    Before I bought my car I had very little car modification experience.
    I had done an oil change on a car before and some simple stereo stuff..but not much else...

    After looking at various 2013 cars, I really could not think of not getting a Subaru WRX or STI.
    My only real thought was should I get a WRX or STI???

    I got a WRX for a few reasons...looking back it's funny and I was a bit lucky!
    #1 Cost
    #2 Cost
    #3 0 to 60 faster than a stock STI and amazing for the price!
    #4 Some car and driver article about an Intake, Exhaust and a tune (I had no idea what that was at the time) that would beat a stock STI and still be cheaper.

    Five Steps to Making More Power in Your Subaru WRX – Feature – Car and Driver

    Car on the Lot Photo!

    Yes after some Mods, my car indeed flies

    Stock 237 lbft@4070 and ~223 HP@5250
    TP e85 Torque 404 lbft@4358 and ~348 HP@5250

    Set Virtual Dyno to CF=1.0

    50 to 100 MPH -> 6.247 seconds!
    Here is a Romraider Log of the pull, note you can see how FFS keeps the boost up when I shift from 3rd to 4th gear. FFS seems to have saved about two tenths of a second if your curious about FFS vs normal shifting.

    11/18/2012 Tall Guy Mirror Fix (posted on nasioc here is a picture, quite a range of responses go figure and yes the mirror is still fine)
    02/15/2013 Boost/Air Intake Gauge (ScangaugeII) - now removed
    07/10/2013 Torqued Performance Stage 1 Tune
    08/20/2013 PLX DM-100 and SM-AFR Gauge (custom mount)
    08/23/2013 K&N Cold Air Intake
    08/23/2013 TSUDO Catless Downpipe (DEI Heat Wrapped)
    08/24/2013 PTP Lava Turbo Blanket
    08/24/2013 Grimmspeed heat shield
    08/24/2013 Torqued Performance Stage 2 Tune
    09/19/2013 TB hose clamps replaced and removed rubber gaskets due to boost leak
    12/14/2013 DW65C Fuel Pump
    01/04/2014 RacerX FMIC
    01/04/2014 Grimmspeed EBCS
    01/04/2014 Torqued Performance Stage 3 Tune
    01/10/2014 Agency Power Equal Length Headers
    01/10/2014 DEI Titanium Wrapped Headers
    01/10/2014 Torqued Performance Stage 3+ELH Tune
    02/16/2014 Plasti Dip Window Chrome Delete
    04/26/2014 Launch Control/Flat Foot Shifting Patch from TinyWrex
    05/25/2014 Kartboy Shifter Bushings
    06/07/2014 Hood Scoop Delete and RacerX FMIC Duct Mod
    06/24/2014 ID1000s
    06/24/2014 NKG One Step Colder Plugs
    07/21/2014 Torqued Performance Stage 3+ELH+E85 Tune
    08/09/2014 Custom Dual N1 Axel Back
    12/04/2014 Rain‑X® Quantum™ Wiper Blades
    12/18/2014 Rear Deck Rattle/Buzz Fix

    Power History
    09/21/2012 Stock ~232 lbft@3936 and ~218 HP@5240
    07/10/2013 TP Stage 1 ~274 lbft@3621 and ~245 HP@5240
    08/27/2013 TP Stage 2 ~301 lbft@3586 and ~272 HP@5250
    01/07/2014 TP Stage 3 ~320 lbft@3616 and ~287 HP@5250
    01/15/2014 TP Stage 3+ELH ~359 lbft@3718 and ~306 HP@5250
    07/21/2014 TP e85 Torque 404 lbft@4358 and ~348 HP@5250
    I'll post later with a comparison of all the tunes if you want to compare.
    Last edited by krisk; 02-14-2015 at 01:13 PM.

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  3. #2
    MAINEiac 11blackSTi's Avatar
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    I Support ClubWRX

    Car looks great!

    I am always curious why people get WRX or STi...and also always curious of what people mean when they say it doesn't take much to "beat" the STi. Different cars for different things, and it sounds like you went the right direction!

    I think you'll find us much more friendly than the folks over at NASOIC.

  4. #3
    Registered User krisk's Avatar
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    Your car looks sweet!

    Every time I put my car on jack stands my one son always asks - are you going to put a spoiler on?
    He's pretty young and has no idea that he is teasing me that I should have gotten a STI

    I really like OBP, even if it seems I have to wash the car a lot. My wife has a white Prius which seems to never look dirty.


  5. #4
    Registered User krisk's Avatar
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    TIP #1
    Many states require a front license plate and the dealer will be happy to mount it on the bumper.
    When I picked up my new WRX the service guy said he always feels a bit odd to be drilling two holes into the car's bumper. I said sure and boom he drilled two holes in my bumper and installed the license plate.

    Now looking back I should had said 'no' and opted to install the license plate on the side of the bumper using an aftermarket kit. The theory is that if you get a FMIC you'll want the airflow to be open as possible. The normal license plate will block some of the airflow. So if you do eventually move to a FMIC and relocate your license plate you'll be left with two ugly holes in your bumper.

    Grimmspeed makes a license plate relocation kit that you could use to mount the license plate for example and other options exist as well.
    Last edited by krisk; 01-26-2014 at 08:39 PM.

  6. #5
    Registered User krisk's Avatar
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    Mod #1 aka Tall Guy Mirror Fix

    I'm 6'4'' and on my 2013 WRX the mirror is too low...

    It's actually pretty easy to remove the mirror and windshield mount (aka 'button'). You don't need any special tools or solvents.

    * Rear view mirror adhesive (can purchase at most automotive part shops) ~$5.00
    * Hair Dryer
    * Razor Blade
    * Windex or glass cleaner
    * Hex screw driver
    * Vise-Grip wrench

    Once you take the entire mirror assembly off with only the 'button' remaining. You can attach a vise-grip wrench to the 'button' - gently so you don't crack or break the windshield. Then slowly heat the button surrounding windshield using a hair blow dryer on 'high'. After about 10 minutes the button can be removed by gently twisting the vise-grips slowly clockwise/counter clockwise.

    Once this is done clean off all the adhesive from the windshield using a razor and Windex. You also need to clean the new spot on the mirror where the 'button' will be reattached. Make sure you check that the button is in the right spot and not upside down when you reattach it using adhesive!

    I also didn't attach the mirror for a 'day' so the button had time to fully seal to the window. I also only used the smaller 'button' instead of the full mount+'button'. Once you remove the mirror you'll know what I mean..I did this since I then didn't have to remove all the adhesive from the large button.

    I personally wanted as much space as possible, so I reattached the 'button' on top of the black ceramic dots on the windshield. It actually worked much better than I though since the black mount is mostly hidden from my view in the driver seat.

    Here is picture of it relocated higher up - you can see where the mount was before if you look close.
    You can also try just move the mirror up - it has two pivots which help some..

  7. #6
    Registered User krisk's Avatar
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    Mod #2 Boost/Air Intake Gauge (ScangaugeII)

    Gauges, Gauges, Gauges - getting a boost gauge seemed like a neat idea!

    My WRX was just a base model and didn't come with a boost gauge. I also started to think that one day I would actually make some modifications to my car. Being quite naïve I thought that I might start to get CEL (aka check engine light) codes a lot that would need to be reset. Though really my first want was to monitor my cars 'boost'. I decided to get a ScanGaugeII - it could monitor 4 engine parameters and reset CEL codes. Bonus for a newbie it just need to plug into my ODBII port.

    The Good
    * Can reset/read CEL codes
    * Can change the background color
    * Potential to do a better job monitoring MPG (never tried)
    * Simple install compared to a normal boost gauge
    * Can monitor additional params via 'X-Gauge'
    * Fun watching my WRX hit ~14+ PSI under boost
    * Can be moved and used on other cars easily

    The Bad
    * You can't log this to a PC for later reviewing (I had no idea abut this requirement and how it would be important for logging a WOT pull)
    * Slow response, not awful, but not instant
    * No peak recall (for example you after some spirited driving you want to see if you are hitting boost w/o watching the gauge).
    * No warning mechanism - e.g. high boost and lean AFRs
    * Most boost gauges display mmHG in vacuum and PSI under boost, this gauge will only show +/-PSI

    I mounted it on the left of the steering wheel right about the 'vent'. I used to thin pieces of steel slightly bent and Velcro on the metal to make the mounts stay in place and hold the gauge. You can wedge the thin metal between the vent and the dash, just go very slow. I then ran the ODBII cord to the side of the dash, pushed it into the door seam and then up and under the dash to the ODBII port.

    The below link has the information you'll need if you want actually monitor boost, MAF and others via a 'x-gauge' command.
    Note that you can monitor AFRs - though it won't be accurate all the time. The factory O2 sensors are really used for emissions and don't function properly under load.

    Nasioc post with x-gauge commands for Boost, MAF and others..

    Here is how it looks installed monitoring (Boost in PSI, Air Intake Temp, Battery Voltage and Water Temperature)

    Overall fine for very simple usage but if you are planning getting your car 'tuned' I would recommend other gauge options.

  8. #7
    Registered User krisk's Avatar
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    MOD #3 Torqued Performance Stage 1

    This was a great mod!! If I were to get my car again I would do this right away!!

    After reading about how to get a 'tune' 3 options seemed possible
    #1 Get a pro tune on a dyno
    #2 Get an off the shelf map (e.g. Cobb AccessPort)
    #3 E-tune using a AccessPort or Tactrix

    I ended up going for option #3 an 'e-tune' and have been very happy with the experience and overall gains.
    Tuning a car is not trivial and I looked for a tuner with lots of experience and happy customers.
    A bad tune or even no tune with a mod (Intake) can wreak your engine FAST!
    You can't really simulate the airflow on a dyno so even a pro tune on a dyno should end up with a road tune done at the end just like with an e-tune.

    I decided to buy a Tactrix OpenPort for $170.00 which you can use to monitor your car (aka logging) and Flash your ECU.
    You need a solid laptop - if you don't own a laptop you should be able to get a solid laptop and Tactrix cheaper than an AccessPort.


    Now unlike the Cobb AccessPort this device has no MAPs, you'll need to buy one from a tuner.
    Every car is different and as you make more changes to your car the tuner will need to update the Map to gain performance and keep the car safe.

    I came across not one, but a very large number of great reviews about Eric @Torqued Performance.
    I have had an excellent experience with Eric and he has been very fast on getting revisions done for a tune.
    The biggest delay really has been getting time to do another round of 3rd gear pulls.

    When you buy a MAP from him via Torqued Performance you'll get a ROM file and instructions.

    Basic Steps (more details are in the instructions, if you get stuck just email Eric)
    I did this on a x64 Windows8 laptop/tablet (upgraded to Windows8.1 with no issues)
    * Install the x86/32-bit Java even on a x64 system
    * You'll need to download ECU Flash/Romraider
    * You turn your ignition to the on position on your car with the Tactrix device plugged into your cars ODBII port
    * The car MUST not be running when you flash the ECU - so don't start the car
    * With your laptop connected to the Tactrix via the provided USB cable you use the ECU Flash program
    * I always do a test write and then a real write to the ECU - you'll know what I mean when you open the ECU Flash program
    * The flashing process will do a checksum and once it's done successfully close the ECU Flash program.
    * Once the car's ECU has been flashed, you turn off the car and then start the car
    * The first time you attempt to start the car it won't start right away, let it crank for a few seconds and then try starting the car again.
    * This is normal and you'll experience this when you unplug the battery from the car (this will reset the ECU)

    Once the car is started you run the Romraider logging program to monitor all kinds of values.

    Once the car is properly warmed up you need to log a few wide open throttle pulls in 3rd gear from 2000 RPMS -> Redline.
    Eric's instructions tell you what to specifically log, check you have selected the right parameters
    You can log by either hitting the defroster or the log to file button.
    When you are done you then send the logs back to Eric for a review.
    He'll review them and adjust the tune and most likely you'll do another flash update and log some more pulls.
    This will continue until the tune is safe (no knock) and you are hitting the right boost, AFR, etc.

    How much does this cost???
    $170 for Tactrix
    $85 for TP Stage 1 tune
    Total ~$255

    Torque +42 to ~274@3621
    Horsepower +27 to ~245 HP@5240

    Car really felt a lot faster and my 3rd gear pull time backed up the result.
    It also was cool seeing my boost hit ~18 PSI on the Scangauge II!

    If you want to track how your cars performance overtime. You'll want to log and save a few 3rd gear pulls of your stock car. If you want accurate results to compare your gains you'll also need to do the pulls on the same very flat straight road, the road can't have bumps or dips, the pulls need to be done on the same spot on the road, air intake temp need to be the same or close and the cars weight needs to be the same (gas, passengers). You can/should also save your stock ecu map - the ECU flash program can save this MAP incase you ever what to return your car back to 'stock'.

    This and other mods (intake) can void your car's warranty, so if you can't accept/afford the potential cost for a new engine you probably should not be modifying your car.
    I personally think this is low but then again I could afford a new engine or take the bus to my job if my car was dead while I had to save $$ to fix it.

    Last edited by krisk; 01-30-2014 at 08:09 PM. Reason: typo

  9. #8
    Registered User krisk's Avatar
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    Oil/Filter Change Tips!

    So I decided early on I was the one that would do my oil changes, it's fun!
    Later I continued to do all the mods to my car, complex or not!

    This was the first real change I did to my car. Overall it's pretty simple to do, the biggest issue was how to remove the undertray.
    I came across this gem of a clubwrx thread (below) that has a great video on how to remove the undertray and the 'clips'.
    Can I get an idiots guide to changing oil in a 2011 wrx sedan? Help me save $!!

    If you start to mod your car you'll realize overtime how much this little clips hold your car together.
    Personally I have gotten them off just fine so far without busting them completely.

    The next issue was getting the first oil filter off - it was on super tight from the factory!
    I got an actual oil filter socket, which is really overkill since you don't need to torque down an oil filter that much.
    The oil filter should be hand tightened plus ~1/4 turn more. Make sure you rub a little oil on the rubber gasket to help it seal.
    If your paranoid just check for oil leaks after a little while...
    I also make sure to have the car warmed up a bit and let the oil really drain out for a while with the oil cap off.
    The oil will hot so be careful or let the car cool off a bit.

    The other issue was that beyond the oil and filter was that I had to get a 'crush' washer for the oil plug from the dealer.
    I bought a few of the 'crush' washers when I was at the dealer.

    Also I needed some jack stands, which were about $20.00 from CarQuest.
    It's dangerous to get under a car with the car being held up only by the car jack!

    The manual shows where the car jack goes and once the car has been jacked you place the jack stand as close to the jack as possible.
    For safety I place some wood behind the back wheels of the car and pull the emergency brake.

    What oil should you use?
    Really this is a old debate from what I have read online.
    If you really want to know what works best you need to do an oil analysis.
    Blackstone Labs performs oil analysis, checkout Blackstone Labs.
    I'm going to do an analysis before my next oil change and see how it goes and then potentially move to using Rotella T6 5W40.

    I'm no expert but personally I have just opted to changed my oil/filter more frequently than what the manual calls for (7,500 miles).
    I changed my oil the first time at ~1,650 miles and then every ~3,000 miles.

    The oil I have used has been synthetic Castrol GTX and Mobile One 5W30.
    I have not had to add oil before the next oil change as well.
    Which I would have expected since the car has ~11,000 miles on it right now.

    How much oil do you add?
    I add 4.5 quarts then check the dipstick to see if you need to add a bit more oil.

    What Filter?
    For the filter I have used a WIX 57712 which meets the correct pressure requirements.
    Carquest 84712 and NAPA 7712 are also made by WIX just with a different brand name.
    Careful, the first filter I got from the autoparts store was wrong. The sales person said they didn't have the exact WIX one in stock and said I could use another one.
    When I got back I searched and sure enough the subaru engine has a high oil pressure filter requirements and this filter didn't meet the engine requirements.
    Using it would have made the oil NOT GET FILTERED!!

    Filter wise the best option is listed in another great clubwrx thread.
    "6 pack of filters and crush washers from fredbean for ~$55.00"
    Aftermarket oil filter for 2011 WRX

    What do you do with the old oil?
    You need to recycle the oil, many places will take the used oil for free .
    I have used my local CarQuest shop.
    Last edited by krisk; 01-27-2014 at 05:41 PM.

  10. #9
    Registered User krisk's Avatar
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    Clearcoat Scratch and a bad paint rub/smear - oh no!!!

    Here is my car last fall after a good wash and wax.

    I'm a bit paranoid about my car's finish, maybe if I lived in a state that used salt on the road I would just get over it.
    For example I specifically told the dealer to NOT wash my car when I bought my car.
    Someday I'll take a picture and you'll see why

    I also stay away from drive through car washes and instead wash/wax my car by hand using Microfiber towels to wash and dry.
    A few times in the winter I have gone to a spray car wash - just to get the car partially clean.
    Though even these seem to leave dirt on the car so I don't even dry my car with a towel after hoping to avoid any scratches.

    I have used turtle wax which worked fine, minus the white crust on plastic or in tough to buff spots.
    I switched to using Meguiar's Gold Class Carnauba Plus Paste Wax since it doesn't leave and white crust unlike Turtle wax.
    I highly recommend this wax!

    After a few months of owning my WRX I bumped into a plastic toy when pulling into my garage one night.
    The dang toy left a paint/plastic smear on my right front fender!
    I thought this was going to stay like this forever or require some major paint fix.
    A few more months later I noticed a bad clear coat scratch on the driver side passenger door.

    Paint/Plastic Smear - it looked a lot worse in person

    Clearcoat Scratch

    I'm not car detail expert, but I read about a product called ScratchX from Meguiar's.
    I was a bit skeptical at the time had not used any of their products.
    But for about $10.00 I gave it a shot and seemed pretty safe.

    Well I was wrong, this product fixed both of these major blemishes!
    You'll want to wash and wax the car after and overtime it seems to get better.
    The product will leave a slight haze at first, if you look really close you can see it.
    You should also only do a small area around the blemish, maybe a 1/4 inch.
    You use this product by hand and not some big powered buffer that can leave buffer marks that will show up in the sun.

    Here is another close up of my fender after using the product.
    I had similar results with the clearcoat scratch...

    So if you have blemish you might be able to fix it yourself without going to a detail shop or worse need a new paint job.
    ScratchX FTW!!!

    ..and no I didn't get paid for this it's just my experience getting rid of these blemishes and using a wax that doesn't leave a white crust on parts of the car
    Last edited by krisk; 01-27-2014 at 08:17 PM.

  11. #10
    Registered User krisk's Avatar
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    ...Really a Subaru WRX beats a Corvette??

    When I bought my WRX I really had no idea on how much more power could be gained vs stock!
    From my view it was basically a super fast car for the $$$ with a stable platform (engine, turbo, etc) that had not changed a lot in a few years.
    Heck the sales person at the dealer said checkout 'nasioc' after the sale which I had not heard of

    After I bought my car I came across this classic youtube video....

    I grew up in Detroit, so the Corvette is the gold standard.

    Flash forward a bit....
    After about a month running the Torqued Performance Stage 1 tune.
    As fun as this 'stage 1' tune was I just wanted more power!!

    After more and more reading, if you want more power you'll need to invest in a wideband AFR gauge.
    If you get a boost leak or your fuel pump goes south after your 'protune' your AFR gauge will help you see this problem.
    Even if your dyno butt doesn't notice

    If you are going to go beyond 'Stage 1' you'll need this for any e-tune, period.
    Without this the tuner can only do so much....AccessPort or Tactrix as awesome as they are can't provide the data a tuner needs.

    Technically you don't need this for a 'protune', they'll use their own AFR gauge when tuning.
    That said monitoring you car's AFR is a critical to monitor even after your 'protune' for both the performance and health of you engine.

    So if you want more power than 'stage 1' get a wideband that can be logged!

  12. #11
    Registered User krisk's Avatar
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    Wideband Install Time (Stage 2 prep) and Dyno Databases!

    I was really digging my WRX with the Torqued Performance Stage 1 tune!

    That said I comparing my power in virtual dyno vs graphs from EFI Logic's and COBB's online dyno databases. I really wanted more power!

    If you have never checked out EFI Logic's or COBB's online dyno databases, go for it! If you log via virtual dyno you should be able to get a good approximate of relative power gains with various mods. Though I have never had my car on a dyno. I have been able to compare my gains vs stock compared to others in these databases.

    You'll also notice that I set my virtual dyno graphs to match other 3g stock wrx's to help approximate and compare my car to others. It maybe not be perfect but from what I have read and comparing other data (xluben's 50->100 thread on nasioc) it seems to be pretty close.

    Back to the main part of my post!
    I looked at a few gauge options and I had a few goals
    * Keep my car as stealthy as possible, gauges that replaced the clock part of my dash or having four gauges mounted around just didn't seem stealthy, cool though
    * Wanted to monitor if not at first but at some point Exhaust temps and oil pressure
    * Needed to monitor and log AFRs to RomRaider via wideband for optimal e-tuning
    * Wanted to monitor Boost - make sure I still hit the expected max boost and no boost creep on occasion

    After looking for a while I decided to get a PLX-DM100. It had all the features I was looking for and some more I didn't expect. I could expand overtime and as a geek all gauges have analog output. Which means that if I really had time I could build an analog to digital converter and replace my the clock dash LCD with gauge data. The unit also has the ability to warn with certain conditions are met. For example your AFR> 11.5 and your boost is 19+. This seemed nice though later I found this will only work with non-OBDII data. I only started with an SM-AFR module so no warning for me (at least for now).

    As a geek I also like how I could create my own custom gauge. This works fine though you can only have one custom gauge, for example one for Boost but not AFR. Also the boost sensor module really is two, one for boost and one for vacuum. Which is a bit odd since most folks in the USA have one boost gauge that reads in PSI >0 and in mmHG < 0 PSI. Despite these limitations I still believe that this was my best option. Especially since I could use the MAP (manifold atmosphere pressure) provided via ODBII as a way to monitor boost. I even created one custom gauge for MAP that displays in PSI. This seems fine since any value monitored has 'peak recall' so after a few pulls I can confirm I was hitting 71 for MAP. If you are curious the MAP for the DM-100 is in inches of mercury (aka inHG), such that a 71 MAP value is ~20+ PSI of boost. Here is an online calculator for doing the conversion Convert in Hg to psi - Conversion of Measurement Units.

    My Install
    Though I liked the look of a few different gauge pods. It just seems like a lot of $ for some plastic. With the DM-100 I just bought a small copper strip from the local hardware store and painted it black. Then with some strong epoxy I glued the metal strip to the back of the DM-100 gauge and then to the back of cover on my steering wheel. It seems kind of cheap but it actually seems to fit pretty smooth. Also I don't seem to pick up a lot of unneeded attention from a bunch of gauges on my dash, etc.

    My first tip is that on a sedan the fuse box has open spots so you can use a 'fuse tap' to add another fuse and power for the gauges. I used the metal in the dash as a ground and made a tiny notch in the fuse panel for the DM-100 remote. Next I was able to place the DM-100 and the SM-AFR both inside my dash (pics below) and they fit quite snug with a few zip ties.

    Now the other tip or hard part I was figuring out how to get the AFR probe wiring through the firewall. After doing some reading I came across an excellent tip from Eric @Torqued Performance! Though this didn't give me exactly what I needed, I still had to look/read a rally armor mud flap install instructions to figure out how to 'pop' off the side part of my car. It seemed scary but really was quite easy overall. Oh those pop clips!!

    Eric's new alternative wiring route through firewall

    Now the DM-100 is quite sensitive to EM interference. When I first was 'logging' it would stop right away. I found that the you want to make sure that the ODBII cable doesn't lay on top of the DM-100 module. The fit is also pretty tight so much so I used a head phone extender from Radio Hack.

    Dash Mount Location

    All Done!

    Peak Readout showing 4 params at once (MAP at 71 inHG ~20+PSI boost, AFR, EGT and AIT)

    AFR @idle

    So that is it for part one of my pre stage 2 work. If you want a tip on how to create a custom gauge, ask and I'll try to help.
    Note that the Peak picture was done later since I still didn't actually mount the AFR probe
    Last edited by krisk; 01-30-2014 at 10:10 PM.

  13. #12
    Registered User Rand0m0sityxX's Avatar
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    I always wanted an STI, when I started really shopping around I had to decide between the WRX or STI. In the end I decided on my WRX. Now that I've bought mine, my dealer has a STI hatchback, and it may just be the color, but after looking at it, and seeing it was $10,000 more than my WRX, I don't like it. It doesn't look as nice as mine IMO.

  14. #13
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    How did you mount the actual gauge itself...def. interested in this! Great writeup!

    Is it totally necessary to have one of these if you're doing a Stage 2 TP tune?

  15. #14
    Registered User krisk's Avatar
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    Pacific Northwest
    If I could only get one gauge I would get a wideband AFR gauge and make sure that it can log to RomRaider for doing an e-tunes.
    A few options exist that can perform this function see RomRaider - Open Source ECU Tools | Documentation / RomRaider FAQ.

    By getting a wideband AFR gauge it'll help Eric dial in your tune. It'll also make sure your tune is getting the most power and are not running too rich or lean. Having a wideband AFR gauge will also make sure that your engine is getting the correct amount of fuel post your tune.

    Here is the key point/drawback on just getting a protune and skipping the AFR gauge purchase.
    The protune most likely will stick a wideband in your exhaust and do the tuning, nice for those that have no wideband.
    A protune will most likely cost more than an e-tune, basically you can get an e-tune+wideband cheaper that a protune.

    Now after you leave the shop with you super tune you can have an issues later - a boost leak, a bad injector, fuel pump goes south, etc..
    Having a wideband AFR gauge installed it will help you detect these possible issues and the problem fixed asap.

    Technically I think you could skip getting a wideband but you can get a wideband for a <$300. Three hundred bucks is cheap compared to a busting your motor and will help make sure you get the best tune. You can just ask Eric at torqued performance, he is extremely experienced and has always answered my questions. Even ones I look back on now as silly because I didn't know too much Just be clear like - will I get a safer and better performing tune if I have a wideband logging to RomRaider than without?

    Do note that neither the tactirx or accessport can actually monitor AFR under boost/load accurately.

    Hope this helps!
    Last edited by krisk; 02-01-2014 at 02:12 PM. Reason: typos...

  16. #15
    Registered User krisk's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2014
    Pacific Northwest

    How did I mount the actual gauge?

    Good question - if I did this all again I would have done this journal while I did all the Mods
    Overtime the details get a bit lost and I don't have pictures of the install!

    Anyhow here is what I did!
    #1 I went to the local ACO hardware store and bought a copper/brass metal strip - 1/2 inch wide and about 24 inches long. You can find them by the dowel section of the store. I got one that was a bit flexible so I could bend it a bit and cut it to fit. I picked a softer metal that I could bend by hand but thick enough to still be strong.
    #2 I then took/cut the little zip tie on the back of the gauge - don't worry it's safe as long as you don't cut the wire.
    Now it's time to get a feel for how it will be mounted. You can use the wire in the back of the gauge, so that the gauge hangs on the brass strip of metal.
    #4 Then you just need to bend the strip a bit by hand so that you get an idea where it should be glued on to the back part of the steering column.
    #5 Now when you have a good idea how it should be mounted, cut the strip to fit. I made sure to use a lot of contact on the back of the steering column. In fact it sticks to most of the column to be strong and hold and only a little bit on the gauge.
    #6 Once you have the strip cut and roughly molded to the back of your steering column and like the 'fit'. I then painted this metal strip with flat black spray paint on both sides and let it dry for a day.
    #7 Next get some really strong thick fast setting epoxy and glue the brass strip to the back of the steering column. I held it by hand for along time and used some tape/string and stuck some stuff under the strip to hold it in place while it dried.
    #8 I then left this in place for over a day - didn't drive and didn't have the gauge on the brass strip.
    #9 Once I felt the glue was dried really well. I then put some epoxy on the back of the gauge and hung the gauge on top of the metal strip by placing the metal strip in between the wire coming out the back and in between the back of the gauge. Then it was just a matter of letting it dry a few hours.

    Looking back I thought this part of the install was easy part of my 'stage 2' work!
    Heck no PB Blaster needed

    Getting the AFR actually mounted in my downpipe, getting the wiring installed (used a fuse tap) and getting the AFR wiring from the downpipe through the firewall seemed much more complex.

    I did this to save ~$150, you could just get a SMY gauge pod and it'll look very nice as well. Though you'll want to get one more gauge since it's really made for two gauges.

    Hope this helps - tomorrow I'll post some pictures to help explain my install. Also if you search online you'll see that some people took apart the actual gauge and mounted the OLED of the gauge inside their rear view mirror! I think this is cool but I like to look forward and look at my AFR and not look in my rear view mirror to see boost, afr, etc

    Hope this helps!
    Last edited by krisk; 02-01-2014 at 02:06 PM.

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