KRISK's Rockin 2013 WRX Torqued Performance Tuned Daily Driver - Page 4
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This is a discussion on KRISK's Rockin 2013 WRX Torqued Performance Tuned Daily Driver within the Member Show-Off & Photography forums, part of the Community - Meet other Enthusiasts category; Thank you for this write up. I am looking forward to modding mine in the future and will definitely read ...

  1. #46
    Registered User Retnuh's Avatar
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    Thank you for this write up. I am looking forward to modding mine in the future and will definitely read this again when I am close to doing it.

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  3. #47
    Registered User krisk's Avatar
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    Shift Knob

    For Christmas my wife got me a shift knob, total surprise!
    One of my favorite gifts and it was in my favorite color (green).

    Bummer was that it was 10mm 1.25 and not a 12mm 1.25 size knob so it would not fit
    I finally got around to drilling it out and mounting a proper 12mm 1.25 bolt on the bottom using JB Weld.
    I also used another bolt and a washer to hold up the shift knob boot.


    I sanded the bottom with 100 grit sandpaper and note that the nut is quite thin as well to save height.



    My car has the Subaru short shifter and the knob sits a good inch lower.

    I sure hope the JB Weld holds, if not I'll end up getting one that really fits.
    Last edited by krisk; 06-13-2014 at 03:37 PM.

  4. #48
    Registered User krisk's Avatar
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    New Plugs/Injectors!

    I picked up new spark plugs and injectors!
    I'll need both for more power!!!

    If you have any tips, feel free to respond back...

    I heard the install for both was a bit of a pain


    ID1000s and Connectors


    NGK One Step Colder Iridium Spark Plugs

  5. #49
    Registered User 386WRX's Avatar
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    Nice! I have the same plugs. I heard the install is pretty bad, but doable. Theres 2 how to guides on nasioc for it. Im doing it next month

    Sent from my LG-E980 using Tapatalk

  6. #50
    Registered User krisk's Avatar
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    Drivers side is all done! So far not as bad as I expected

    My tuner Eric @torqued performance sent my a DIY write up he created.
    Fuel Injector Install DIY

    I also used Overland's post on NASIOC for the plug parts.
    If you do plugs for the rear coil over you'll want to unclip the coil over wire and then rotate the coil over pack 180 degrees then it will come out nice and easy. If you don't it'll seem that their is no way it will come out.
    DW 850cc Injector step-by-step install w/ NKG Iridium plugs too! - NASIOC

    I still need to do the passenger side (supposedly much easier) and check for leaks, hopefully it'll go smooth!

    Here is two pictures that I didn't find on the net for removing the TGV motor.
    I just removed these bolts then moved the motor to the side.
    Then I could use a wrench to remove the back side bolt on the "bracket of death"!


    I could only feel the bottom bolt on the TGV motor. A 1/4 wobbler extension worked great.
    I used the hose and clamp to help get it in place and then placed the ratchet on the extension.



    TVG Motor Bolts Driver Side - Bottom Removed. 1/4 Wobbler FTW!
    The big circle at the bottom corner is the intake manifold hose.

  7. #51
    Registered User krisk's Avatar
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    ID1000s/One Step Colder Plugs Done!

    All Done and now time for a new tune on pump then it's time for E85!
    Can't wait to go to E85 should get some excellent HP/TQ gains.

    Here are my tips, some are in the post I linked but not all!
    #1 Start the car and then pull the fuel pump fuse till the car stalls and take off gas cap (this will get rid of fuel pressure and most of the gas in the lines)
    #2 Tools - really this is essential
    * 1/4 wobblers (3 inch and 6 inch),
    * Close ratcheting wrenches (10mm and 12mm)
    * 3/8 extensions (3 inch and 6 inch)
    * Magnetized bolt pick up tool (yes you will drop some bolts!)
    * Pick
    * 5/8 Spark Plug Socket
    #3 The injectors will move (spin) a little bit once installed (normal)
    #4 You'll need to bend the passenger side fuel rail a little bit to remove injectors - carefull!
    #5 Some fuel will spill (not a lot) when you remove injectors - so no flames, need open space, ventilation
    #6 Take pics along the way and keep all the bolts with the part you remove
    #7 Hand tighten the spark plugs and then turn 1/2 a turn more (the block is aluminum, you don't want to strip the head!)
    #8 Turn the coil packs 180 degrees then they will come out
    #9 On newer WRXs the TGV will recalibrates when the ECU is reset so you don't have to do anything special when you put the TGV motor back on.
    #10 Do a boost leak test once your all done
    #11 Turn the car's ignition on but don't start a few times to prime the fuel lines
    #12 Don't run car without a new tune (flashing tune will reset ecu and will also happen when you remove the car battery)

    Here are some pictures that should help as well if you do the install yourself.
    It took me two days all by myself (took my time) but was not as bad as I read on the internet.
    The last bolt on my rear shifting bearing seemed worse in my opinion


    ID1000s vs Stock


    Fuel Pump Fuse, Start Car, Pull Fuse, Let Car Stall, Open Gas Cap


    Air Pump (two bolt locations and wire harness plug), Battery, Oil Tube All Removed


    This bolt is the hardest part of passenger side - tools used to break bolt loose.


    Once bolt is broke loose, use close 12mm ratcheting wrench to remove and do the end by hand.

    If you have some questions, feel free to ask!
    Last edited by krisk; 06-28-2014 at 01:08 PM.

  8. #52
    Registered User krisk's Avatar
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    Hood Scoop Delete and RacerX FMIC Duct Mod

    I was inspired by two sources to block my hood scoop and add a bit of ducting to my RacerX FMIC. The first was Xluben and how he has opted to get rid of the hood scope on both his WRXs when he moved to a FMIC. The second was an excellent article/blog post from autospeed.com. I actually did this a few weeks back as part of my final items to my car before my ID1000s/Colder Plug Install.

    The first part was the hood scoop delete. You can actually purchase a nice block plate online for about $100.00. But that seems like a lot for something so simple. I just bought some sheet metal from the hardware store and a can of black spray paint. I used the remaining sheet metal for the FMIC duct. Sheet metal is easy to bend and cut.

    Hood Scoop Delete/Block Plate
    #1 Open Hood
    #2 Lay a soft blanket over engine bay so you don't drop anything into the engine bay (cold engine)
    #3 Remove all the plastic fasteners that hold the rubber TMIC Duct/Splitter
    #4 Now use a piece of cardboard using scissors and a marker to create the 'prototype' block
    #5 You'll want to have a little lip at the bottom (see picture below)
    #6 Once you get the cardboard part done use this to create the real one using sheet metal
    #7 Make sure the block plate goes all the way to the top - their is actually a small slot at the top of the hood that the block needs to go in
    #8 Start big and slowly work on getting the curve just right, slowly round the edges so the block goes up as high as possible
    #9 Now take a marker and with the block plate in place mark the sheet metal where the holes are in the hood
    #10 Drill the holes in the sheet metal and then put the hood scoop delete in and re-use three fasteners from the original hood scoop duct.
    #11 Once you are happy with the fit, spray paint the block plate and install back in place (let it dry a long time or you'll scratch it when installing)


    This is the hood scoop block off plate from the engine bay, looking up at the hood towards the front of the car. Note the three plastic fasteners that were reused from original hoop scoop splitter/duct.


    Here is a shot of my car with the block plate installed and painted flat black. I going to spray it again with a semi shine, flat black looks a bit too dull.


    Their is a pretty big gap between my FMIC and the crash bumper beam. The FMIC also as a slight angle, so my theory is that some of the air flows across the FMIC and then through the radiator and not threw the FMIC. So using some sheet metal I basically made a plate to force the air into the FMIC and not across the front of the FMIC.

    FMIC Duct
    #1 Take front bumper off
    #2 Use card board again to make a prototype - make sure that you use the lip on the crash bumper beam
    #3 Cut real one using tin snips
    #4 Once your happy with the fit, then cut holes in the sheet metal that use the bolt holes on top of FMIC to hold duct plate in place
    #5 Spray paint the duct plate
    #6 Bolt it back down and reinstall crash bumper beam
    #7 Careful the bolt holes don't go down to far...



    Note the gap between the crash bumper beam and the two bolt holes. I *think* I used a few bolts that were left over from removing my factory downpipe?


    Duct block plate in place - painted and bolted down.

    ..that's all

  9. #53
    Registered User krisk's Avatar
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    Launch Control/Flat Foot Shifting Patch from TinyWrex

    A bit back about a month ago...sorry if it seems my posts are going back in time. If your curious about my injector/cold plug install went fine and I'm in the process of getting my new tune from Eric at Torqued Performance.

    First off it's pretty east to install, you basically update your xml file for your ecu and tweak some values in EcuFlash prior to flashing.
    I took a video of this below - really sounds waaay deeper and crazy powerful in person.

    At first when I took the video my AFR was 20! I was like WTF?? Then read online that this is how the car makes boost, unlike just rev'ing the car normally.
    I have not really used this part of the patch, since I'm on the OEM clutch

    You are also only supposed to leave it rev'd until you hit boost then let her rip!
    Holding it down past you make boost supposedly creates very high exhaust gas temps from running so lean and is bad for your engine.


    Funny I choose a bad label for this on you tube - 2013 wrx launch control. I guess I don't have enough hits to be found via you tube search
    Last edited by krisk; 07-05-2014 at 01:20 PM.

  10. #54
    Registered User krisk's Avatar
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    e85 vs Stock!

    My tune is just about done - just need to send Eric another set of logs after a good number of miles to check.
    I just want to say that the car is a total blast to drive!!! It really pulls like crazy and the gains are totally worth the time/effort to install injectors!

    Here is a virtual dyno compared to stock!!! Great results and this was done in the middle of the summer when it was around 80 degrees.


    Stock 237 lbft@4070 and ~223 HP@5250
    TP e85 Torque 404 lbft@4358 and ~348 HP@5250


    I also did a few 50 to 100 pulls to see my time. I'm not the best shifter but I was able to log a 50 to 100mph pull in 6.247 seconds (see page 34 for my post). Xluben has a thread on nasioc that you can compare various cars and times. I'm super happy with the results!!!

    Here is a Romraider Log of the pull, note you can see how FFS keeps the boost up when I shift from 3rd to 4th gear. FFS seems to have saved about two tenths of a second if your curious about FFS vs normal shifting.
    Last edited by krisk; 07-28-2014 at 06:51 PM.

  11. #55
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    How did you an OBP 2013, custom painted?

  12. #56
    Registered User krisk's Avatar
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    Wow you know more about my car than me
    Turns out that in 2013 you could only get Crystal Black Silica, which replaced OBP!

    Buyer's Guide: 2013 Subaru WRX/WRX STI - Autos.ca

    -Thx

  13. #57
    Registered User krisk's Avatar
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    Wow you know more about my car than me
    Turns out that in 2013 you could only get Crystal Black Silica, which replaced OBP!

    Buyer's Guide: 2013 Subaru WRX/WRX STI - Autos.ca

    -Thx

  14. #58
    Registered User 11wrx's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by krisk View Post

    Stock 237 lbft@4070 and ~223 HP@5250
    TP e85 Torque 404 lbft@4358 and ~348 HP@5250

    Set Virtual Dyno to CF=1.0

    50 to 100 MPH -> 6.247 seconds!
    Here is a Romraider Log of the pull, note you can see how FFS keeps the boost up when I shift from 3rd to 4th gear. FFS seems to have saved about two tenths of a second if your curious about FFS vs normal shifting.

    Mods
    11/18/2012 Tall Guy Mirror Fix (posted on nasioc here is a picture, quite a range of responses go figure and yes the mirror is still fine)
    02/15/2013 Boost/Air Intake Gauge (ScangaugeII) - now removed
    07/10/2013 Torqued Performance Stage 1 Tune
    08/20/2013 PLX DM-100 and SM-AFR Gauge (custom mount)
    08/23/2013 K&N Cold Air Intake
    08/23/2013 TSUDO Catless Downpipe (DEI Heat Wrapped)
    08/24/2013 PTP Lava Turbo Blanket
    08/24/2013 Grimmspeed heat shield
    08/24/2013 Torqued Performance Stage 2 Tune
    09/19/2013 TB hose clamps replaced and removed rubber gaskets due to boost leak
    12/14/2013 DW65C Fuel Pump
    01/04/2014 RacerX FMIC
    01/04/2014 Grimmspeed EBCS
    01/04/2014 Torqued Performance Stage 3 Tune
    01/10/2014 Agency Power Equal Length Headers
    01/10/2014 DEI Titanium Wrapped Headers
    01/10/2014 Torqued Performance Stage 3+ELH Tune
    02/16/2014 Plasti Dip Window Chrome Delete
    04/26/2014 Launch Control/Flat Foot Shifting Patch from TinyWrex
    05/25/2014 Kartboy Shifter Bushings
    06/07/2014 Hood Scoop Delete and RacerX FMIC Duct Mod
    06/24/2014 ID1000s
    06/24/2014 NKG One Step Colder Plugs

    Power History
    09/21/2012 Stock ~232 lbft@3936 and ~218 HP@5240
    07/10/2013 TP Stage 1 ~274 lbft@3621 and ~245 HP@5240
    08/27/2013 TP Stage 2 ~301 lbft@3586 and ~272 HP@5250
    01/07/2014 TP Stage 3 ~320 lbft@3616 and ~287 HP@5250
    01/15/2014 TP Stage 3+ELH ~359 lbft@3718 and ~306 HP@5250
    07/21/2014 TP e85 Torque 404 lbft@4358 and ~348 HP@5250
    I'll post later with a comparison of all the tunes if you want to compare.
    Your numbers clearly do not match the plots and are inconsistent throughout the thread. Why? You also post a lot of data at 5250 rpm, which isn't the peak values on the plots either. That is a cross over point in torque and HP. It would be more helpful if your data was straightened out so we can tell real gains and comparisons. Otherwise this is a great thread.

  15. #59
    Registered User krisk's Avatar
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    I'll re-post all the graphs on comparing all stock vs stage 1 vs stage 2 vs stage 3 vs stage 3 + ELH vs stage 3 + ELH + E85. I had this graph a bit back and removed it because it was getting too cluttered. When I re-post this data it should help and happy to post the romraider logs as well. I did this to just show how much more power you can make compared to stock and not to go hit some magical number. If I did that I'd probably set Virtual Dyno to a the Dynojet setting.

    Really on a VF turbo the power just drops off at high RPMs, due to the VF not being able to keep the boost from dropping. Also when you use Virtual Dyno you can tend to get a false data at the very end of the pull. As such I don't really believe my stock pull was continuing to make more and more HP it approached the redline.

    You can compare my data vs some online dyno databases if your curious. Try Dyno Database Online and search for a 3G WRX (e.g. WRX Stock 2011) and you can see how HP drops at the end of the pull. From what I have rread (try the E85 Army thread on nasioc) my numbers looks what I'd expect given the mods, AFR, Boost and timing.

    I also only have one stock pull from my car saved and I'm not about to go remove all my mods to get a new 'pull' that might be more accurate at the end of the pull


    Hope this helps
    Last edited by krisk; 08-16-2014 at 01:18 PM. Reason: Bad Engilsh

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