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This is a discussion on KRISK's Rockin 2013 WRX Torqued Performance Tuned Daily Driver within the Member Show-Off & Photography forums, part of the Community - Meet other Enthusiasts category; Here is a few pictures to help see how I mounted the DM-100. Top down picture Note how that the ...

  1. #16
    Registered User krisk's Avatar
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    DM-100 AFR Install Pictures

    Here is a few pictures to help see how I mounted the DM-100.

    Top down picture

    Note how that the brass metal strip has been bent to fit the back of the steering column.
    Also note how much of the brass metal strip is used when it's glued to the back of the steering column, the more the better so it holds.

    Front Bottom View

    Note you can see the metal strip is a angled a bit, on a clock it would go from about 8:30pm ->2:30pm.
    You can also see where I ran the wire back to the DM-100 unit.

    Back of Gauge

    Note how you can see one of the zip ties has been cut on the back of the gauge and the 'glue'..
    The metal brass strip is sandwiched between the wire and the gauge.
    The wire also is used to 'hang' the gauge on the brass metal strip.

    Add A Fuse

    Here is a close up of my fuse box and where I used an 'add a fuse' to get power for my gauge(s).
    For ground I just used a screw inside the dash that was mounted into metal.
    Last edited by krisk; 02-22-2014 at 10:08 AM. Reason: typo..

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  3. #17
    Registered User krisk's Avatar
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    Stock Radio Mod!

    I noticed that when I played music via bluetooth the sound was far better than when listening to FM radio.
    Later I stumbled upon this neat trick to change the sound of the stereo!

    Here is a youtube video - sounds much better in real life.

  4. #18
    Registered User krisk's Avatar
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    Torqued Performance Stage 2 E-Tune!

    After stage 1, people said you will want more power!
    Yep about a month+ later stage 2 time!

    Getting this completed was extremely rewarding, even if it took a lot more time than I expected.
    Part of the long install was that I had to install the AFR gauge and all the wiring/power.

    Once again I was really impressed with the e-tune I got from Eric @Torqued Performance!
    He was available over the weekend and got back with a few updates to my tune very fast!

    Stage 2 Part List
    $40 AEM No-Weld O2 mount
    $300 PLX DM-100+AFR Sensor
    $140 PTP Lava Turbo Blanket
    $80 Grimmspeed heat shield
    $40 Grimmspeed Downpipe Adapter
    $230 K&N Typhoon Intake #69-8004TTK
    $190 TSUDO Catless Downpipe
    $45 DEI Heat Wrap Kit
    $85 TP Stage 2 E-Tune
    $70 iMFD to PC Linke
    Total ~$1220

    Install TIPS
    #1 Take your time and make sure you have good six point sockets.
    #2 PB Blaster is a miracle - really, spray it on all the downpipe bolts and let it soak overnight
    #3 I bought an iron pipe that fit over my 3/8 ratchet that I used to get the bolts to come off
    #4 Getting the downpipe off was the hardest part - I didn't expect all the heat shielding on the downpipe
    #5 Read in forums, watch YouTube and look for install instructions for a good idea how to remove and install the downpipe.
    #6 I placed my downpipe on the turbo without being bolted on and used a piece of tape for where I wanted to mount my wideband AFR probe.
    #7 Disconnect the battery - when you do the wiring, when installing the downpipe and cold air intake

    Here is some good pointers for how to remove/install a downpipe and heat shield
    Grimmspeed Heat shield Install PDF
    WRX Forum Downpipe Install
    YouTube Downpipe Install
    YouTube Grimmspeed Heat shield Install
    YouTube Video that shows how to remove Intercooler

    After the gauge work was all done and doing a bunch of reading and watching on how to install a downpipe. I was ready to start installing all the parts for 'Stage 2'. My first part of the job was to wrap the downpipe with DEI head shield wrap. I used a motorcycle kit from DEI and didn't choose the titanium wrap. The motorcycle kit came with wrap, ties and silicon sealer spray. The reason was that I had heard that the titanium wrap frays pretty easy. Unlike headers or a uppipe the downpipe is not protected by the plastic under tray and seems more susceptible to fraying due to it's exposure. The warp in the kit gets sealed with some silicon spray that forms a hard shell on the wrap. I also used plastic zip ties to hold the wrap on until I had all the stainless steel ties on good and tight. You can get the stainless steel ties very tight by using flat screwdriver and a needle nose pliers. You basically push/hold the bottom of the tie with the screwdriver and pull with the pliers. Once all the stainless steel ties are on you can just cut the plastic zip ties off. The downpipe gets extremely hot so you must remove them!! It'll take a few weeks for the wrap to stop smoking and smelling burnt. Don't be afraid after the first start or two if you see smoke - it's normal and will stop.

    While the downpipe wrap was drying I worked on removing the old downpipe and installing the K&N cold air intake. I placed the car on jack stands and had plenty of room to remove and install the downpipe all by myself. You need to unplug the battery - you don't want to break the MAF sensor or the factory AFR O2 sensor/probe. The first part was taking off the intercooler. It's pretty easy, watching the YouTube video above will help if it's not clear. Note that I didn't take the BPV hose off the BPV like in the video. After getting the turbo heat shield off. I sprayed the five bolts on the turbo with PB Blaster and let it soak for a few hours and then sprayed them all again. The Grimmspeed heat shield video and instructions helped a bunch! Now it just took some muscle and to get more torque on the downpipe bolts I placed my long iron pipe over my 3/8 inch ratchet. When the first bolt broke I was like 'yes'! PB Blaster is essential! Once all the bolts were off the downpipe. I then went under the car and unplugged the AFR sensor and then unbolted the exhauast bolts and the bolts that hold the factory downpipe to the tranny/car. Then I just lifted the downpipe off the holding mount and gently took the downpipe out of the car. I should have had my wife take a picture of me holding the downpipe over my head!

    Next part was to place the new downpipe on the car and to find a good spot to place my new wideband AFR O2 probe/sensor. You'll need two bungs on a downpipe at least for newer WRXs (not sure about older models). You can buy one with two bungs, you just have to look and pay more $. One bung is for the factory AFR sensor and another is for the wideband. I placed mine about five inches in front of the bung on the downpipe. A picture is below that helps see where I mounted the probe. The probe is basically mounted about ten inches from the final bend of the downpipe with a good amount of straight pipe in front of the probe. I also placed the bung on the top of the downpipe, so that water vapor drops off the probe. I don't know how to weld so I drilled a hole in the downpipe (took a while!) and used an AEM no weld O2 sensor mount. This has actually worked a lot better than I though after ~6 months I have no exhaust leaks at all. I installed both O2 sensors on the new downpipe before installing the downpipe on the car. Also I just used a ViceGrip to remove and screw both O2 sensors which seemed fine. The downpipe also fit great, which I was a bit worried since the downpipe is not the top of the line. Once I had all parts installed (except the heat shield/turbo blanket) on my car and had flashed my ECU. I started the car and checked for exhaust leaks. Sure enough I had one where the downpipe connects to the exhaust. Here is how I checked for leaks. I started the car while the car was on the jack stands. Then I had my older daughter rev the engine a bit (3->4K) and while she revd the engine I placed my hand around the turbo/downpipe and again where the downpipe connects to the exhaust. I could feel a bunch of hot air coming out of the exhaust - which was the leak. I have the stock factory WRX exhaust so I needed to use a Grimmspeed exhaust 3 inch to 2.5 inch adapter. The part I missed was that their is a donut gasket on the factory downpipe that I failed to take off and use again. Once I placed the gasket on I no longer had an exhaust leak. I reused this and the gasket between the downpipe and turbo. My car was pretty new so this seemed fine. You can by new ones from Grimmspeed as well.

    Wideband O2 Sensor Install Location

    Note that I used zip ties to secure the wiring and that this photo was after ~6 months later.
    You can also see where the heat wrap stopped.

    After I had the downpipe installed. I then installed the K&N Cold Air Intake. It came with great instructions and was pretty simple to install. The hardest part was getting/pulling the stock air box out of the car. It's not required to get a cold air intake, but it makes the car sound better (woosh) and according to Eric @Torqued Performance adds HP at the top end.

    At this point I re-installed the intercooler so I could flash my car with the Torqued Performance tune, check exhaust leaks and take my car for a test drive.

    Wow did the car pull great and I took two WOT pulls and sent them to Eric for review/revisions right away. Once I sent him the logs. I wrapped my turbo in the PTP lava blanket and installed the Grimmspeed heat shield. Both companies have great online instructions which made the install of these part easy. I choose both the PTP lava blanket and the heat shield to help keep down heat soak and potentially gain turbo spool.

    Gains Over Stock
    Torque +68 to ~301@3586
    Horsepower +54 to ~272HP@5240

    Note how much sooner the power is available compared to stock!
    With TP2 tune I have same power at ~2,800 RPM compared to stock ~3,800 and it keeps getting stronger!
    My main post has stock vs TP1 vs TP2 for comparisons as well.
    Last edited by krisk; 02-02-2014 at 10:19 AM.

  5. #19
    Registered User krisk's Avatar
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    A Boost Leak??

    After about three weeks after running my Stage 2 tune. It seemed the car pulled a bit less and my AFR's dropped to 10.0 for bit when I punched the gas! The AFRs were far lower/richer than after my final revision from Eric.

    Logging ever so often is a really good maintenance task, just like changing your oil.

    I was a bit lucky since the change in my cars performance was obvious and a boost leak is pretty safe. When you have boost leak you'll just lose power and run a bit richer. Now here is my 'tip' - you should log a WOT pull every so often to make sure your car is healthy. Your final logs for your tune are essential so that you can compare that you are hitting boost, MAF and AFRs are the same. I'm no expert but below is an awesome post from Eric @ Torqued Performance on how to log, what to log and what to notice.

    Eric's Guide to Datalogging and Understanding Datalogs.

    So after feeling my car pulled less and my AFR gauge would drop really low. I also noticed that the max peak boost the DM-100 would read after a pull was 68 (MAP, manifold absolute pressure). Before this change I would normally get 69 or 70 MAP. On the DM-100 a MAP value of 68 is ~18.7 PSI of boost and a 70 MAP value is ~19.68 PSI of boost. Indeed a boost leak or something worse was occurring, since the TP Stage 2 tune should be about ~19 PSI. I then did a 3rd gear WOT pull and the good news was that the timing was the exact same as my final logs from my tune. I also still saw zero knock events or and fine learning knock correction. Though my AFR was far richer and the boost was a good bit lower and I no longer hit the peak boost values as before.

    I emailed Eric and he was quite helpful. I also looked/read online about 'boost' leaks, which turned up a lot of hits. Now technically I paid Eric weeks before, yet he still helped and didn't charge me any more $ to re-review my pulls. After reading I found out that you can buy some t-bolt clamps and remove the 'rubber' gaskets on the intercooler to throttle body hose. It's quite common for these to leak - even on stock cars! Some thread I read said fixing this boost leak was a 'right of passage'

    When I took off my intercooler, unlike in the past it didn't require to be pulled to remove it from the car. It was super loose! I then drove in my van to NAPA and got some better clamps. I took also took the IC (intercooler) to TB (throttle body) hose to NAPA so I got the right size clamps. I also used a trick to use hairspray on the hose/TB/IC to help make the connection tight. Though I did a bad job on noticing exactly the alignment of the TB to IC hose....

    Use a marker/tape and note how the hose is installed and/or note exactly where the pink dot on the TB Hose is when installed!
    Nasioc Post With The Pink Dot

    Once I got the hose correctly installed, removed the rubber gaskets off the hose and used my new t-bolt clamps. The car pulled a lot better and my AFRs looked like before. I then sent two 3rd gear WOT pulls to Eric and he took a peak and said it looks great! I also loaded up a pull in Virtual Dyno and the curve was the same!

  6. #20
    Registered User krisk's Avatar
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    Torqued Performance Stage 2 vs Car and Driver Protune

    How good is the TP stage 2 tune? Excellent!!!!
    In my original post I linked to a car and driver article that was a great inspiration for me at the time.
    For a lot less I got similar gains, which for me was quite a nice surprise!

    The car and driver article ends with a quote of having spent ~$4,000
    If you look at the dyno you'll see the following gains.
    Torque increased +68
    Horsepower increased +56

    As a reality check how is my self-built Torqued Performance e-tune comparing?
    Torque increase +68
    Horsepower increased +54

    The big difference - cost!
    I skipped the exhaust and tires and saved ~$2,500 that I can use for more performance modifications!
    Last edited by krisk; 02-02-2014 at 12:28 AM.

  7. #21
    Registered User krisk's Avatar
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    4 months later...

    I wanted to see how the air temp drop made a difference in power.
    So on a really cold clear morning in the pacific northwest I did two 3rd gear pulls.
    The temp was around 28 degrees, which was a lot colder than the last time I did a WOT log.

    When I got back home I looked at my logs and noticed a small amount for FLKC around 5K.
    My AFRs were a bit more leaner than the fall and I only picked up a small increase in power.

    I sent my logs to Eric (4 months later after my stage 2 purchase!) to see if he need to change my tune.
    He was worried about running out of fuel on top and thought the stock fuel pump was not keeping up.

    I was planning on going to the Stage 3 Torqued Performance tune at some point.
    Though I was hoping to not get a fuel pump, the install looked very difficult.

    Now it looked like I was going to need one so I bought a DW65C from amazon on Wednesday and it arrived on Friday.
    The install did take a long time good part of Saturday afternoon and a few hours on Sunday as well.
    Though overall it went smooth thanks to the link below.
    The tough part was using two metal pokers to get the stock FP out.

    Overland has a great write up on how to install a DW65C fuel pump.
    New DW65c Fuel Pump step-by-step install - NASIOC

    * You need to use two O-rings not one!
    * I used the one from my stock FP and one I got from a fuel injector kit from NAPA (the kit came with two but were ways too big)
    * Do this in a well ventilated location with you car doors open - like in your driveway!
    * Don't do this with the garage door closed!
    * You want 1/8th of a tank of gas or less in your car
    * Pull the fuel pump fuse in the engine fuse box and run the car till it stalls, this will drain the fuel hoses of gas
    * Open the gas tank cap the night before the install
    * Read the whole post/thread
    * No smoking, sparks, heaters!

    After getting the pump installed and priming the pump as instructed the car started up great.
    I drove around for a bit and checked again for any leaks and had none!

    When the car was all warmed up I then did a 3rd gear pull and sent Eric the log to take a peek.
    He looked and did some changes and we repeated this for e-tune cycle for a few days until he was satisfied.
    I had zero knock and zero FLKC again like a few month back and my car was prep'd for Eric's Stage 3 tune.

    After another week of driving I sent Eric two more pulls - good news still zero knock and zero FLKC and the pulls were done on a really cold day!

    Eric @ Torqued Performance did this additional tuning 4+ months after purchasing his Stage 2 tune and didn't even charge me!
    I thought he had done way more than needed and I sent him $50 to his PayPal account as a tip.

    Note that I didn't gain any more performance by adding a fuel pump to my setup.

  8. #22
    Registered User krisk's Avatar
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    RacerX FMIC !!!

    I initially was not going to go with a FMIC for a few reasons. But I actually ended up getting a RacerX FMIC for my 2013 WRX. I am very happy with this purchase, it was a great buy for the price and fit well. It has a lot of fans from the legacy gt folks. It's also a part that was designed by an actual Legacy GT owner to address some concerns with FMIC fitment on a Subaru. To order it I sent an email to Bryan at and he responded back pretty quickly. I didn't find this item on amazon, e-bay or other online shops.

    Key Features
    * $650.00 price tag!
    * Fits with Stock Air box, K&N and many other CAIs
    * Keep crash bumper beam
    * Comes with high quality stainless steel t-bolts
    * Has extra pipe for an aftermarket turbo
    * Optional heat coating
    * Multiple updates/revisions due to customer feedback
    * No more heat soak!
    * Very little spool loss (may ~100 RPMs?)

    After getting my car tuned I was really happy with the spool time. In my next post you'll see the dyno with the results. I read a lot about how a FMIC will cause a lot of turbo lag, but I have not experienced this with my setup.

    All FMIC are going to require some bumper trimming. I trimmed out a good part of the lower grill area. In the close up below you'll notice that I also used a license plate adapter to mount the license plate a bit higher up as well. The theory is I'll get more air flow. I used a Dremel drill to do the cutting and smoothing. I cut all the flat black plastic so that it was basically flush to the main part of the bumper. Also to protect the FMIC and to keep it looking stealthy I cover the grill opening. This part I was really surprised how well it came out. They make aftermarket kits that cost $100+. At my local hardware store they sell a stainless steel gutter guard. I didn't even have to cut the gutter guard! This cost me a whopping $7.99. I used a few zip ties to hold it in place on the bumper. I would seem like this would not be tight but it is due to the gutter guard having a built in flex. Maybe some day I'll spray the gutter guard flat black. But right now I'm happy with how it looks and helps hide/blend the FMIC into the engine bay.

    Install Resources
    RacerX FMIC Install Thread from Legacy GT Forum
    Bumper Removal from
    Youtube Bumper Removal Video

    FMIC Close Up

    Note how I cut out the normal plastic support beam. This is because I cut out all of this part of the bumper and only left a tiny part left. Basically I cut until it was flush with the main part of the bumper.

    BPV Side View

    You'll need to unhook the BPV inlet from the manifold. You'll also have to loosen the inlet hose and twist the BPV so that the hose aligns properly. Without doing both the BPV won't reach to the FMIC pipe. Note the yellow pointers. The one on the bottom I placed a zip tie on the hose very close to the inlet. I've read this can blow off due to high boost pressure. Since I was so close I placed a zip to help hold it on the inlet nipple. I also reused the BPV rubber gasket.

    Under Tray Trimmed

    The under tray will need to be cut so that it fits. I also placed a small chunk of rubber between the FMIC piping and the tow hook and secured with zip ties. I think this was not needed but I didn't want to hear any rattles from the two being so close.

    K&N Intake Picture

    Yes you really do get to keep your cold air intake! You'll need to remove the intake when you install the piping!

  9. #23
    Registered User krisk's Avatar
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    Torqued Performance Stage 3 Time!!

    With my FMIC installed all I had left to install was a Grimmspeed electronic boost control solenoid. Note the I did both mods and didn't drive around with just the FMIC installed. Installing the EBCS was quite easy thanks to the great online resources like always from Grimmspeed. The EBCS kit came with all I needed except zip ties to hold the new hoses in place.

    Grimmspeed EBCS Install (YouTube)

    EBCS Close Up

    Note I ran one hose over the manifold and not under per the instructions.

    Stage 3 Part List
    $650 RacerX FMIC
    $110 EBCS
    $150 DW65C FP
    $85 TP Stage 3 E-Tune
    Total ~$995

    Getting my car tuned from Eric @Torqued Performance took a lot more revisions. Though he was excellent at processing my 3rd gear pulls and updating my tune (like always). At the end I was really surprised at how much more the car seemed to pull. I was worried that maybe I should have gotten a aftermarket TMIC and that the FMIC would have a lot of lag. NOPE!!

    Dyno TP3 vs Stock

    After the tune was completed I gained ~19 FT Lbs of Torque and 15 HP at the peak. Though the power comes on earlier and hold longer compared to Stage 2. My main post has the comparison of Stock vs TP1 vs TP2 vs TP3.
    Last edited by krisk; 02-02-2014 at 06:08 PM.

  10. #24
    Registered User 386WRX's Avatar
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    Awesome write up, Love the comparison between all 3 stages, that's exactly what I plan on doing, but going with a TMIC by PWest. Thanks!

  11. #25
    Registered User krisk's Avatar
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    Torqued Performance Custom Tune!!

    Last fall I emailed Eric a few times and he said he can do custom tunes beyond the maps he provides stage 1, stage 2 and stage 3. This was really great news from my view since I imaged doing more performance modifications to my car. When I was done with my stage 3 build he said he could update my tune for Equal Length Headers! After installing my FMIC I was super confident that I could install headers....

    Well the install didn't go to well....First I actually busted my Crasftsman ratchet, which I got 20+ years ago as a kid. I was using this one (1/4 inch) because I didn't have a deep well socket for my 3/8 ratchet. When I broke the ratchet the local stores were closed so I had to wait another day. Good news when I brought my ratchet to Sears the replaced it for free. I had heard the 'lifetime' guarantee but had never used it

    Once I got a new deep well socket for my 3/8 inch ratchet I was sure stuff would get better. I have been using a really nice battery powered fluorescent lamp. I did use eye protection when I was spraying on PB Blaster on all the bolts. Thank goodness else I am sure I would have had the stuff drop in my eyes! Though my lamp was unprotected and when the PB Blaster dripped on the lamp it basically ruined the lamp. I guess PB Blaster and clear see through plastic don't mix!! Careful when you spray it - I could image what it would do to you car's headlights!!

    At first I thought it was going better even though it took longer to wrap my headers than I expected. I used DEI titanium wrap which really is nice for headers and you don't need any sealant! Great stuff seems like the best wrap you can get for headers or a up pipe!

    Headers Wrapped

    Note just like when my downpipe using zip ties help until all the stainless steel ties are on.

    I thought I was back on track but nope...
    When I mounted the headers and installed new gaskets the gasket between the headers and the uppipe didn't look like it sealed very well. Sure enough when I started the car it leaked and I could feel the exhaust with my hand. Maybe I should have spent more cash on better headers??

    Now for some reason I was shipped two Grimmspeed gasket? I must have not ordered the right part, but I had two. Sure enough looking online showed my error. I ordered extra thick manifold gaskets for the stock multi piece headers. I should have bought the extra thick manifold to up pipe gasket! It was Friday about 7pm and was real feeling frustrated thinking it's going to be days before I could get the right gasket. I also started to think I had finally gone to far with my car and should have just enjoyed my car with the TP Stage 3 tune.

    I thought well I really have no other option wait for a new gasket or try to use both and see if it would seal/hold. So I put them both on and torqued the bolts on super tight. Doing this is a real pain since I had to un-snap the O2 sensor from the wiring harness and then unscrew this from the header. When I was all done I was sure it was not going to work. I started the car and I didn't feel any leaks. But a car at idle is nothing compared to a car under boost.

    For this tune I just needed to get the headers installed and then do a couple pulls and send them to Eric. Once I had the under tray put back on I warmed the car up and did two pulls. The car felt flat and I was thinking this was a bad move again. I was under the impression that just adding headers would make an immediate performance impact. Well so I read online

    When I got home and inspected my logs they didn't look good. Boost was lower and when I loaded up the pulls on Virtual Dyno my car performed worse than before adding headers.

    At this point it was 9:57pm on a Friday night and I sent Eric @ Torqued Performance my logs and explained my predicament. I opened a beer and thought I'd get an email in the morning saying confirming a header to up pipe leak. Well at 10:22pm Eric responded back and said "It looks sealed try this map". This was great news and the beer started to taste a lot better!!

    After days of log a pull, email Eric, log the updated map and repeat the car ended up amazing! Really and I had zero knock and zero FLKC even after driving hard on the tune for a long time. It was really cool to see all the changes he made, timing, AFR, wastegate, MAF curve, etc. He really is an excellent tuner and is super responsive! The neat thing with my tune is that I'm running less boost than my Stage 3 tune!

    Header Install Tips
    * Where eye protection!
    * Use DEI Titanium wrap - buy 1" roll
    * Buy the correct gasket from Grimmspeed
    * You need all new gaskets between the engine and the header and between the header and the up pipe.
    * Slowly tight all the bolts don't mount the header to the engine and then work on the up pipe Header Install (YouTube)

    Part List
    $550 Equal Length Headers
    $60 100FT 1" DEI Titanium wrap
    $25 Grimmspeed 2x Manifold to upipe gasket
    $25 Grimmspeed manifold to head (pair)
    $50 TP Custom tune for adding ELH to Stage 3
    Total ~$660

    Dyno Chart

    If you look at my main post you see how much I gained over Stage 3! Torque is up ~39lbfts and 20 more HP!
    Again a super tune from Eric @ Torqued Performance!!

  12. #26
    Registered User krisk's Avatar
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    386WRX - Great that is why I put this thread online!
    That was my plan too (get PWest) but at the end I switched to the RacerX FMIC to save $300.

  13. #27
    Registered User 386WRX's Avatar
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    Port Orange Florida
    Yeah, I was thinking about an FMIC, but knowing my wife, she would throw a fit if she saw me hacking up my new car, plus id like the choice to return to 100% when I sell it and get some mod money back...
    A shop in my area said adding headers would be a huge difference, I guess they were right!
    You think UEL headers would yield the same performance? id hate to lose the rumble

  14. #28
    Registered User krisk's Avatar
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    Pacific Northwest
    UEL won't match the performance of ELH. The sound is not as bad as what you read online. The Subaru engine still sounds great and definitely not like a Honda

    I plan on keep my car until it's taken away...I own it so I pretty sure it'll never go back to stock

  15. #29
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    great write up. this is a inspirational thread, that i hope to do the same some day. Keep the updates coming.

  16. #30
    Registered User krisk's Avatar
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    Get Rid Of The Chrome!!!

    I'm not sure why Subaru choose to put the odd looking chrome strip just below the windows on the 2013 WRX sedan. Since I got the car it always has seemed to look a bit out of place. I *think* the hatch has this removed in 2014?? At least I saw a new 2014 in a parking lot recently and no chrome!

    A few options exist to get rid of the chrome (aka chrome delete) and all seem 'OK' and are really cheap and safe to do to your car.
    If you have a preference then feel free to add on to the chrome delete thread. Maybe in a few months I'll try another option and report back.

    Window Chrome Delete?

    I spent ~$7.00 total (yep it's really cheap to do!) and bought a spray can of plastic dip from my local hardware store and it actually turned out better than I thought. Once I got over the emotional part about spray painting my car at least

    I'm no expert and don't expect to become a 'Plasti Dip expert', below is my tips.

    * I had issues with the nozzle clogging - cleared the clog by soaking the nozzle in nail polish remover and spraying the can upside down for a bit
    * I did a light 50% cover once, waited 45 minutes, then another cover again and again until it was all covered (4x total)
    * I would not tape so close to the chrome next time (target 1/4 of an inch) since it would help peel off part of the job
    * I did this in ~45 degree weather - maybe this was the cause of the clogging??
    * The YouTube video below helped, even with their error peeling off so early
    * I should have done this long ago - great easy mod, worst case you can peel it all off!

    YouTube Video

    My Prep

    Maybe overkill??


    Note the odd paint spots. They came from unclogging the nozzle after removing the nozzle from the spray can and soaking the nozzle in nail polish for 15 minutes. Spraying while holding the can upside down seemed to help unclog the nozzle as well.


    It rained so the spots are water and not Plasti dip!
    Last edited by krisk; 02-22-2014 at 10:21 AM.

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