My New Project

[zax]

I was wondering how long it would take someone to notice. I did an a/c delete I don't ever use it, and will never use it, so why put it in?

You live in Colorado. I imagine you'll need to use your De-frost at some point. No A/C = No Defrost.

The A/C delete is pointless. Removes 5 pounds from the vehicle and the parasitic loss when not engaged is negligible.

[Daisy]

You live in Colorado. I imagine you'll need to use your De-frost at some point. No A/C = No Defrost.

The A/C delete is pointless. Removes 5 pounds from the vehicle and the parasitic loss when not engaged is negligible.

This I am aware of.

[metaldahlberg]

A/C weighs more than 5 pounds, and it doesnt mean no defrost. It means longer time to defrost. I honestly haven't had a problems since I removed it. Defrosts fine.

[Daisy]

A/C weighs more than 5 pounds, and it doesnt mean no defrost. It means longer time to defrost. I honestly haven't had a problems since I removed it. Defrosts fine.

Thanks.

I've driven a Jeep with no doors or windows (even in the winter) for almost 4 years. Defrosting isn't really much of an issue for me.

[zax]

Meh, it's your car. It's a nice creature comfort that I am lucky enough to possess.

[RayfieldsWRX]

Yeah, I spent years wiping the windshield of my '70 VW with a cloth because the factory defog was useless. I'll keep my compressor.

(Plus I live in the southeast. While it's plausible that I might buy a car with no air conditioning, I certainly wouldn't delete it if it came with it.)

[Daisy]

Well, phase 1 is officially done. Whew. So far I have:

removed crusty blown up leaky nasty 260,000+ EJ205 (next project)
pressure washed, sanded and painted engine bay
installed (practically new) 2004 EJ257
New ignition coils, spark plugs, new gaskets/seals, new thermostat, new (used) injectors
swapped sensors, exhaust manifold, intake manifold/throttle body/wiring harness
timing belt, alternator belt, and tensioner
VF39 turbo
STI intercooler
intake silencer delete
a/c delete
turbo back Invidia exhaust and hangers
Invidia uppipe
steering rack and tie rod ends
front drive shaft
Megan Racing aluminum radiator
B&M transmission cooler
Walbro 255 fuel pump
Optima battery, terminals and tie down
Replaced all hoses under the hood, seals, gaskets, etc.
Drained and flushed all fluids in the car
new transmission, oil, air, fuel, etc filters
managed to break the radio I bought leaving a hole in the dash
New rotors and brake pads all around
New tires
Alignment (at Subaru right now)
Tune (tomorrow - not being done by me)

and probably some other crap I forgot about. It seems like I've done way more than that!

Phase 2 consists of - rebuilding a (automatic) transmission, TGV delete, wheel bearings, bushings all around, struts, springs and whatever else I find that needs to be replaced.

Phase 3 consists of audio, body work, paint, seats, interior, lights, bigger brakes, wheels, tires, and any other visual mods I think of.

She looks like crap still, but she doesn't drive like crap anymore!

[zax]

Phase 2 consists of - rebuilding a (automatic) transmission, TGV delete, wheel bearings, bushings all around, struts, springs and whatever else I find that needs to be replaced.

Are you looking to replace or upgrade your transmission? As far as upgrades, you're very limited.

Consequently, you are also the first full EJ257-powered Auto transmission WRX that I've seen (save the Auto FXT of course)

[Daisy]

Are you looking to replace or upgrade your transmission? As far as upgrades, you're very limited.

Consequently, you are also the first full EJ257-powered Auto transmission WRX that I've seen (save the Auto FXT of course)

Looking to upgrade. I was planning to buy another transmission and have it fully rebuilt and strengthened at a shop then put it in. I haven't come across many limitations yet in my research.

[metaldahlberg]

Getting **** done! Nice work.

[Daisy]

Well, I just found out I need to drop the steering rack again. I guess they can't straighten my steering wheel when they do the alignment because it's upside down. They want to charge me $250.00 to straighten my steering wheel.

Learn something new every day. I guess I didn't realize the steering wheel was such an exact science.

[mycologist]

Well, I just found out I need to drop the steering rack again. I guess they can't straighten my steering wheel when they do the alignment because it's upside down. They want to charge me $250.00 to straighten my steering wheel.

Learn something new every day. I guess I didn't realize the steering wheel was such an exact science.

You might be able to just undo the coupler on the steering shaft and spin it around right.

If you have it out, you might as well install these - they do make a nice difference IMO.
http://www.amazon.com/Whiteline-Suba.../dp/B004ZZVM8K

[Daisy]

You might be able to just undo the coupler on the steering shaft and spin it around right.

If you have it out, you might as well install these - they do make a nice difference IMO.
Amazon.com: Whiteline Subaru Steering rack & pinion mount bushings, 02-04 WRX/STI: Automotive

I'm hoping that's the case, but the dealership seemed to disagree with me, as usual. I've decided never to go back there because I think they're idiots. They told me my old engine was fine a few weeks before it blew They talk to me like I'm just a stupid girl that doesn't know anything and I'm sick of it.

I was actually just reading about those bushings. It seems they make quite a difference. I may just pick some up!

Thanks for the info

[mycologist]

There are a few dealer specific things I use them for, e.g. wheel bearings. Otherwise, nah. I nkow I had that coupling loose when I did my bushings, but I can't recall if it was trapped or could have come out to rotate. I think it does.

Finding a good alignment shop = win. It can be hard. You don't want the stock settings, and the dealer likely won't do it any other way.

Tell your independent shop you want as much negative front camber as they can get with no cross camber. The rest is all standard, no toe etc. They will get more if they loosen the bottom strut bolt. It should be somewhere between -1.2 to -1.5.

Alignment basics

[Daisy]

Good info, thanks.

I'm going to try to find a good shop sometime next week. My alignment doesn't really seem to be off other than my wheel, so I'm not in a huge hurry. Of course, I wanted to be done with phase 1, but I'd rather take my time and get it right.

I'll order the bushings too and put those in when I flip the wheel. I would just leave it there, but it is such a pain in the rump to see how fast you're going and your turn signals never turn off automatially.