nameless axleback installed today...
This is a discussion on new scooby owner... 2011 WRX Limited 5dr in Lighting Red within the Member Show-Off & Photography forums, part of the Community - Meet other Enthusiasts category; nameless axleback installed today... http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=m3snH9owRgM...
i can definitely hear it now when i'm driving. that's what i've been missing from my ms3 but now, i have a better one. love that drone sound!
Very, very nice! I just picked up my LR Limited Hatchback on Tuesday. I got it for just over $28.3k before tax/licensing, but I didn't get the nav. Had to wait a solid three months after placing the order.
I'm also thinking of going with Nameless. Probably the full cat-back. The videos I've seen are promising. The Kartboy STS is also on my list. But first of course is tint and full-frontal clear-bra. Don't want any rock-chips!
I'll probably wait until after the warranty expires to do any engine tuning. I want to get into manual tuning using open source software like Rom Raider. I envision being able to flash different kinds maps onto the ECU, such as one to save gas for long-distance driving and another for max performance. Not sure how good of an idea that is, but we'll see.
Those headlight LED accents you installed look pretty darn good too! I've never removed a front bumper before or messed with car wiring. Would you recommend the mod to a novice like me? Also, where did you pick it up?
B... Congrats on your purchase! You would love your car, and red is a very unique color. On meets, there would be a few of you, if you're not the only one there.
I couldn't be more satisfied with the Nameless Axleback, I could definitely hear the exhaust when I'm driving. It's one of the most important things I was missing from my MS3, and now I have it back.
The LED mod, it's a love or hate it mod. I got praised for it and I got flamed for it too. I'm glad you liked it. It's very easy if you know how to splice wires. Removing the bumper is so easy! Just 12 clips and 2 screws. I found a DIY removal here...
You can remove the head housings too but I didn't. You can buy the LED strips from PEPBoys or Autozone, I bought the 12-inch ones.
Pics aren't bad man. Take some close-ups of the front and side too. I'm curious how your tint looks.
Mine is going to the detailer tomorrow for wash, clay-bar, polish, wax, clear-bra, and tint. I'll take some good pics this weekend and post them.
Are you considering the Nameless midpipe at all?
Are you looking at the under-the-seat sub or one for the back?
2011 WRX Base Hatch in Obsidian Black Pearl
Stink-Eye Mob #027
B... that's it for the exhaust, won't add any more to it. All I need was a little more sound from it.
I'll go with an under-seat sub, my hatch space is almost always full from my stuff and my passengers' so I don't want to reduce that space back there.
I've got some tinted window
photos a few pages back. It's 20% front and 5% the rest.
I'm just waiting for my 3rd quarter bonus so I could get more stuff for her.
Any chance you could write up a quick "How To" on that LED strip for us electronically challenged people? I think they look absolutely amazing!
Dumb question time
"It's a shame that stupidity can't be converted into a usable energy source."
If you click the link on my previous post with the bumper removal, you'll see exactly which one to unplug. I think there are 2 relays for the high beam lights, 1 for the DRL and another for the high beams as they use 2 different wattages so high beams doesn't get affected when u unplug the DRL relay.
I tried plugging the DRL while the LED's were spliced. The wattage is so low, it's not enough for the LED's to be as bright as it can so I just left it unplugged.
it's so hot today! i bought a cabin cover for my ms3, i tried it on today. it doesn't exactly fit her but it does the job of keeping the cabin cooler than when it's naked under the sun.
The under-seat sub makes a HUGE difference (it was AWFUL before the sub). It's really not a bad little sub (made by Panasonic, 8" driver and 120 watts (latter is more than the "Kicker" trunk sub) and it uses an active negative feedback system with microphone to drive distortion way down). It does need (like any sub really) to be adjusted properly (there's two dials on the front panel of it, one for crossover point and the other for gain and you really need a test CD and a sound pressure meter. With the stock head unit, I have bass now at +5, the sub crossed at ~100Hz and the gain set to be about flat at 30Hz, +10dB at 40Hz with +/- 3dB between 40-100Hz and then ramp back to flat above that using test tones first averaged at an overall 80dB pink noise, all measurements taken at the driver's seat. The net result is very decent sound, overall within the limits of the system (i.e. perfectly fine for classic rock, IMO and it's louder than the SPT exhaust even with the windows down going 80mph)
I got my '04 WRX wagon when it was 2 years old $3000 below dealer Blue-Book ($20k out the door at the time) the same way. They kept telling me they couldn't come down anymore and I kept getting up and they kept lowering it until they met MY offer (not theirs). Paying cash seemed to help there. They didn't seem to care here, but I don't really buy that either. He told me they normally don't come down on a new WRX at all. Yeah, well this was after the earthquake when supplies were supposedly short, so I don't buy that. It's not a flipping Porsche, for goodness sake; it's a souped up Impreza. They can either make a sale or lose one, but you have to be ready to walk (they can usually tell if you're BS'ing them).
2011 WRX Limited DGM Sedan - SPT Catback - SPT STS + Kartboy Bushings - 3M Clear Bra