Changing brake pads on WRX - Page 4
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This is a discussion on Changing brake pads on WRX within the Maintenance, service, and repair forums, part of the Tutorials & DIY category; Originally posted by NJSubieTech If you mean the bolts that mount the caliper to the knuckle (the 17s) they are ...

  1. #46
    Registered User Prince Ali's Avatar
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    Originally posted by NJSubieTech
    If you mean the bolts that mount the caliper to the knuckle (the 17s) they are 59 ft-lbs. If you mean the slide bolts (the 14s) they are 19.5 ft-lbs.

    Im also not sure what you mean by "bedding the pads." If youre just asking how you get them in there - I usually bring them in at a right angle and press one side of the clip, then push down and pivot them in.

    If you mean braking them in on the car - I do this:

    Get up to about 40 mph - apply very light brake pressure until you come to a complete stop.

    Go to 50 mph - reapeat with a little more pressure.

    Go to 50 again and apply heavier pressure - try to stop in about 100 ft.

    Go to 60 and apply as much pressure as you can without locking up the wheels or activating ABS, stopping as quickly as possible.

    Joe
    Thanks Joe. I wanted the value for the two bolts that hold the caliper in place. What is the slide bolt? I was reading about different brake kits and I read about "bedding the pads" on Stoptech's web site. I guess they call breaking in "bedding the pads and rotors..
    Thanks,
    Ali

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  3. #47
    Registered User ***biGRed***'s Avatar
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    how is the procedure for the rear brake pads the same?

  4. #48
    Registered User Bask Oner's Avatar
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    Identical, except there is only one piston to depress when putting the caliper back on the rotor.

    BTW, there's really no reason to remove both caliper bolts. If the remove the bottom one and loosen the top, you can rotate the caliper out of the way and work on the pads.
    Matt
    WRX-less, now RSX-y!!!

  5. #49
    Registered User element533's Avatar
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    Originally posted by Bask Oner
    BTW, there's really no reason to remove both caliper bolts. If the remove the bottom one and loosen the top, you can rotate the caliper out of the way and work on the pads.
    That sounds like a better idea because you don't have to worry about dropping the caliper and having it yank on the brake line and swing around.
    Speedometer? Is that the thing next to the tach?

  6. #50
    Registered User AjIsDope's Avatar
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    Wow! This isn't a sticky?
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  7. #51
    Registered User ***biGRed***'s Avatar
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    Well I got Axxis pads and they only came with the 4 pads and 2 clips.


    Now am I suppose to re-use the clip and plates that are already on the stock pads? The Axxis pads didn't come with new clips and plates like on page one of pace's post. What are these 2 new clips I got from Axxis and where do they go? Any pics?

  8. #52
    Registered User Bask Oner's Avatar
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    You should have no problem using the existing backing plates. You need one metal clip (which is actually the brake wear sensor) for each caliper. If goes on the bottom end of the inside brake pad if I remember correctly. If you're only doing front or rear brake (hence the 4 pads?), then you only need two clips. The backing plates have their own little clips that hold them on the pad. By the way, if you ordered your pads from Stoptech.com, and there aren't enough wear sensors, just let them know. They'll send you more for free - right away!

    Edit: Oh yeah, and the sharp edge of the wear sensor (clip) faces the caliper, because it scrapes on it when the pad wears down too much.
    Matt
    WRX-less, now RSX-y!!!

  9. #53
    Registered User Weeeeeeeeeeeeee's Avatar
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    i just changed the brakes on my '99 outback wagon 2 days ago. i have to admit, the instructions were excellent, with the pictures to boot. Much props there. Anyway, i didnt read all of the replies, so i dont know if this has been iterated yet, but im just going to throw out a few tips i learned from the guys i know at the local mechanics shop down the road.

    1. While the lugs are easy to get off, the caliper bolts are a *****. The solution is to take first spray the bolts with stuff called PB Blaster. Its much better than WD-40.

    2. Then, take your trust sears (garbage) ratchet, and slide a 10 - 12 inch pipe over the handle. I never thought i would ever need physics class, but here i used it to solve my lack of putting torque to the bolts. TORQUE = FORCE x DISTANCE <--lever arm length, so having a bigger handle will allow you to put more torque into getting the bolts off if you pull at the end of the pipe.

    3. Counter-clockwise the ratchet should feel resistance if you want to take bolts off. Clockwise puts them back on.

    COMPRESSING THE CALIPER PISTONS

    I just wanted to say, that the part in the original diy about taking off your brake resevior cap is not necessary at all.
    When you have your caliper off, and your new brakes fitted, in order to get the caliper over the new brakes you need to compress the caliper pistons.
    To do this, get a C-CLAMP from the local hardware store.
    Now, take and position an old brake pad over the caliper pistons. This is while the caliper is still removed from its home. Then, clamp the old brake pad on the piston side to the caliper.
    Tighten until you cant tighten anymore.

    Now you can easily slide the caliper over the new brake pads. Do that, then bolt everything back up.

    Start your car. Give it a min, then repeatedly stomp the brake pedal. The first time you hit the brakes (only hit the brakes when everything is back together and youre ready to drive away), you will feel the pedal hit the floor. Dont worry, its just the caliper pistons adjusting to the new pads from being compressed back into their housings. After about 10 stomps, your brake pedal should feel normal.

    Take the car into a deserted street and get it going at 30 mph. Then smash the brakes just to make sure they work.


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  10. #54
    Registered User blarg's Avatar
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    I just read this post AFTER the fact. I did all 4 brakes yesterday and put in SS lines while I was at it. The instructions I read said nothing about greasing the backing plates. I re-used the ones that came with the old pads because Axxis doesn't give you any. How important is the grease on the back of the pad? I drove the car about 10 miles today and everything seems to work fine, and it doesn't make any noise. Do I need to take everything apart and grease them or not? When I took off the old pads it looked like if they were EVER greased the grease had long ago congealed or turned into a solid film...it deinately didn't feel greasy.
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  11. #55
    Registered User AjIsDope's Avatar
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    Not greasing those plates can lead to some squeeking but that's it.

  12. #56
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    hey anyone help i have axxis brakes pads front and back for some reason i drove with them fine for like 3k miles after that the front brake makes loud noise when im not even braking i felt my front rotors and there not smooth there bumpy do i need to get new rotors would that help??

    some one help please

  13. #57
    Registered User Sotbas's Avatar
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    Just installed new brake pads for the first time and here is something I learned to make things easier.

    You do not need to take off the entire caliper. You only need to remove the bottom bolt and swing the caliper up. I got this info from a repair manual and it worked just fine. Very easy job to do.

  14. #58
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    nice write up!!! If i didnt know how to do brakes already this ish would be printed out cause im doing my brakes tomorrow.
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    Question Great info

    Thanks for the great information!

    Could someone please tell me what the benefits to having your rotors re-surfaced are? I really don't want to spend a ton of cash if it's not necessary.

    Thanks!

    BTW- please sticky this!

  16. #60
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    Post

    Re-surfacing removes any grooves and "trues" up the rotor. If you went down to metal on the last set of pads you will have to do this at a minimum. You may have to replace rotors if they are too grooved or warped (i.e. out of spec). It is a good idea to resurface anyways but not absolutely necessary. Your brakes will work better and new pads will last longer. Personally, I'm just doing the pads as I will probably trade/sell the WRX in the next few months. Resurfacing the rotors involves removing them which is A LOT more work. Been there, done that. No thank you!
    Mark
    02 WRX Wagon

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