Changing brake pads on WRX - Page 3
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This is a discussion on Changing brake pads on WRX within the Maintenance, service, and repair forums, part of the Tutorials & DIY category; Another reason to open the bleeder screw would be that you would get rid of some of the old fluid ...

  1. #31
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    Another reason to open the bleeder screw would be that you would get rid of some of the old fluid that is at the caliper end of the brake system. It seems that this fluid gets the hottest and the dirtiest. If you don't crack the bleeder screw, you push this fluid back up into the system.

    Just an observation, Very nice write up and pics!
    '02 WRX Sport Wagon
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  3. #32
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    call me crazy... but when I had to change front brake pads on my WRX, I didn't need a C-clamp to push the pistons in. I'd been in the habit of doing that with my Integra, but with the WRX, I just pushed the pistons in by hand. It did take a fair bit of effort, but it was quicker that strapping a c-clamp and old brake pad on to clamp it the pistons in.
    Chris Perera
    STX WRX

  4. #33
    Registered User BigRich's Avatar
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    Nah, your not crazy. I've never had to use a C-clamp when changing pads on any of my Honda's. As long as the pressure has been relieved (i.e. shutting off the car without your foot on the brake pedal), you can typically do it by hand.

    -- Rich

  5. #34
    Registered User element533's Avatar
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    Beautiful Post!

    so what should you do if you accidentally get grease on the rotor? pad?
    Speedometer? Is that the thing next to the tach?

  6. #35
    Registered User Prince Ali's Avatar
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    Originally posted by element533
    Beautiful Post!

    so what should you do if you accidentally get grease on the rotor? pad?
    You can use brake cleaner spray to wash it away.
    Thanks,
    Ali

  7. #36
    Registered User RLsChMiDt's Avatar
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    HOW IN THE WORLD ARE YOUR CALIPERS SOOO CLEAN??!?!?!?!?!?

    With my '03, after the first month, mine had a rusty/brownish color! STill doo!
    -Ryan |Dub-Yuh Our Ex Ess Tee Eye| My Car

  8. #37
    Registered User Prince Ali's Avatar
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    Is it true that Subaru uses a diagonal system of brake lines and they have to be bled in a particular order?

    1. front passenger
    2. rear driver
    3. front driver
    4 rear passenger
    Thanks,
    Ali

  9. #38
    Registered User NJSubieTech's Avatar
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    Its true that subaru reccoments bleeding the brakes in this order. I dont know exactly why - but before asking why Id have to ask - Why not? Since I cant come up with a good answer for that second question - I just do it Subaru's way.

    Joe
    "Damn.... this car is wicked fast..." ~ My roomate, owner of a supercharged/intercooled 97 Trans AM
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  10. #39
    Registered User element533's Avatar
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    It has to do with the order that the wheel cylinders are connected the master cylinder. If there is any air in the master cylinder, and you bleed say, the RR first, then when you bleed the RF it might push air back into the RR.
    Speedometer? Is that the thing next to the tach?

  11. #40
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    Youre logic is good, but the fact of the matter is, bleeding air out of the master through the lines is almost impossible. Thats why, when you change a master cylinder, you essentially bleed it back into itself until its clear.

    Rather than air - they are more concerned about the old fluid getting back into the lines (same logic applies though).

    Brake fluid is hydroscopic, meaning it will absorb water. Water has a boiling temp muuuch lower than that of brake fluid, and as such, will boil earlier, and form steam - which can be compressed. This gives your brakes a spongy feeling, and thats why the fluid neesd to be replaced. Thus, you want to make sure you get all the old garbage out before you put the new in.

    Joe
    "Damn.... this car is wicked fast..." ~ My roomate, owner of a supercharged/intercooled 97 Trans AM
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  12. #41
    Registered User Prince Ali's Avatar
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    What are the torque value for the caliper bolts and how do I "bed in" the pads?
    Thanks,
    Ali

  13. #42
    Registered User ***biGRed***'s Avatar
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    Originally posted by Prince Ali
    What are the torque value for the caliper bolts and how do I "bed in" the pads?
    ^^^ and what kind of pads are these?

  14. #43
    Registered User NJSubieTech's Avatar
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    Originally posted by Prince Ali
    What are the torque value for the caliper bolts and how do I "bed in" the pads?
    If you mean the bolts that mount the caliper to the knuckle (the 17s) they are 59 ft-lbs. If you mean the slide bolts (the 14s) they are 19.5 ft-lbs.

    Im also not sure what you mean by "bedding the pads." If youre just asking how you get them in there - I usually bring them in at a right angle and press one side of the clip, then push down and pivot them in.

    If you mean braking them in on the car - I do this:

    Get up to about 40 mph - apply very light brake pressure until you come to a complete stop.

    Go to 50 mph - reapeat with a little more pressure.

    Go to 50 again and apply heavier pressure - try to stop in about 100 ft.

    Go to 60 and apply as much pressure as you can without locking up the wheels or activating ABS, stopping as quickly as possible.

    Joe
    "Damn.... this car is wicked fast..." ~ My roomate, owner of a supercharged/intercooled 97 Trans AM
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  15. #44
    Registered User Imprezaboy's Avatar
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    Lots of great info and tutorial here!!! Thanks very mcuh to everyone's contributions. Keep all the good stuff coming!

    Quick note on bleeding the system, speed bleeders works well and they aren't all that expensive to buy.
    :the quest to be a better driver
    ::the relentless search for untamed twisties

  16. #45
    Registered User Prince Ali's Avatar
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    Originally posted by ***biGRed***
    ^^^ and what kind of pads are these?
    I think I'm going with Hawk HPS pads. From what I have read, they work better than the oem, and don't dust much.
    Thanks,
    Ali

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