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This is a discussion on Changing brake pads on WRX within the Maintenance, service, and repair forums, part of the Tutorials & DIY category; What role do the two thin backing plates on each pad actually play? Are they strictly for squeak prevention? I ...

  1. #136
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    What role do the two thin backing plates on each pad actually play? Are they strictly for squeak prevention? I can't picture how they would make a difference.

    I installed Wearever Gold semi-metallic pads from Advance Auto Parts on my 2007 Impreza Outback Sport this weekend, along with new rotors (old ones were warped - new rotors were cheaper than resurfacing). The new pads had a thin metal backing plate already riveted to the back of the pads. Though the OEM backing plates DO fit on the new pads, and the new pads fit perfectly in place with the OEM clips on the caliper mounting bracket, there simply isn't enough clearance for new rotors + THESE new pads + the backing plates. The pistons were fully compressed, and I was able to force the caliper in place over the pads and rotors (snagging a pinhole into one of the piston seals in the process, which sucks), but of course the brakes are then dragging and I'd probably warp the NEW rotors from heat before the pads had worn down enough. The brake pedal feel was also extremely mushy until an extra pump or two (and it went back to being mushy after moving again) - perhaps because the pistons were being forced out farther than their effective distance?

    Either way - I pulled it apart again (I have this down to a 5-minute-per-side science now), pulled off the backing plates, and reassembled - the calipers fit perfectly, the car stops perfectly, and I'm left wondering what role the backing plates really played in anything.

    Someone help me figure this out

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  3. #137
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    Quote Originally Posted by mynameisphunk View Post
    What role do the two thin backing plates on each pad actually play? Are they strictly for squeak prevention? I can't picture how they would make a difference.
    I've just been asking the same thing over here Original brake pad clips/backings - keep or toss?

    My new pads came with their own hard plastic adhesive backing plate, and now I don't know whether to reuse or discard the metal Inner shim and Outer shim from the original pads.

  4. #138
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    Quote Originally Posted by mynameisphunk View Post
    What role do the two thin backing plates on each pad actually play? Are they strictly for squeak prevention? I can't picture how they would make a difference.
    ...Someone help me figure this out
    Same Here trying to figure this out.

    Just did my brakes with new Brembo rotors and Hawk HPS pads and of course no extra plates shims or clips, though they did have the little brake wear clip. The Hawk pads had a plate on the back that seemed on there pretty good so I just greased the outside so there is no grease between them and the back of the pad, is that OK?

    The original shims are pretty much paper thin pieces of rust without tabs. Can these be purchased separately from Subi? How about the clips the pads ride in?

    Just went on the first test run to "burnish" in the pads as per Hawk's directions. The fronts are making a kind of banging sound as I stop.

    I will be checking everything in the morning making sure all looks OK and see if I can't re use the original shims.
    Last edited by NTTD; 04-05-2010 at 12:56 AM.

  5. #139
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    Quote Originally Posted by NTTD View Post
    Same Here trying to figure this out.

    Just did my brakes with new Brembo rotors and Hawk HPS pads and of course no extra plates shims or clips, though they did have the little brake wear clip. The Hawk pads had a plate on the back that seemed on there pretty good so I just greased the outside so there is no grease between them and the back of the pad, is that OK?

    The original shims are pretty much paper thin pieces of rust without tabs. Can these be purchased separately from Subi? How about the clips the pads ride in?

    Just went on the first test run to "burnish" in the pads as per Hawk's directions. The fronts are making a kind of banging sound as I stop.

    I will be checking everything in the morning making sure all looks OK and see if I can't re use the original shims.
    I'm not sure what if any role the extra shims have other than keeping them from squealing.

    I do know that if you buy them all individually at the dealer they are ridiculous, however they come free with a set of subi pads. I guess the idea is you are SOL if you don't stick with their pads. They literally add up over a set of pads that includes them.
    "From a little spark may burst a mighty flame." - Dante
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  6. #140
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    I just did my hawk hps's tonight..on the front there are no shims needed...the shims are needed on the back and that is what is pictured...the brake pads i took off of the front of my car did not have any shims...but the rears did and hawk includes those if you order the rears as well

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    Quote Originally Posted by lillefty006 View Post
    I just did my hawk hps's tonight..on the front there are no shims needed...the shims are needed on the back and that is what is pictured
    If the pictures you are referring to are the ones at the beginning of this thread, I'm pretty sure they are pictures of pads for FRONT dual piston calipers on vented rotors seen here. According to Subi two shims per pad are needed on the front. The rear pads are much smaller and have only one shim per pad seen here and here.

    Quote Originally Posted by lillefty006 View Post
    ...the brake pads i took off of the front of my car did not have any shims...but the rears did and hawk includes those if you order the rears as well
    The front pads installed on my vehicle were missing shims as well. Both front and rear had a single tab-less shim per pad.
    My hawk pads came with nothing other than the shims that were glued to the pads, and grease.

    I ended up ordering all the shims from my Subi dealer to the tune of about $70.00. The front shims that were glued onto the Hawk pads interfered with the mounting of the stock shims so I removed them and installed the factory shims. They went on great and I have no complaints.

  8. #142
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    I know i'm tardy with my post but i'm stumped. I replaced my pads and rotors, and after completing the necessary steps, they sound like they are grinding (sounds like just the rears and its pretty faint, hard to hear if the car is in gear and clutch is out). Also after about a half mile seeing if the pads or rotors would ceace the noise I acquired a squeal. More of a tone at what appears to me a certain spot on the rotor (also the rear). I was wondering if anybody had any input? I"m stumped and i'm not really a mechanic but i can follow directions (thus i put them on myself using this thread as my guide). Also the car brakes fine, and the grind/squeal doesn't stop nor slow the car...

  9. #143
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    Check for caught debris.

    Check for a bent dust cover.

    Check for a stuck pin or slide.

    Check that the discs, calipers, and pads are all seated correctly.
    WRX Info Links, Courtesy TheJ
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  10. #144
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    Hawk HPS Brake Pad Install on 06 WRX

    Watch and learn my friends
    Front:







    Rear:





    Oh yeah, another must have.







    Finished!!
    Last edited by joesubaru7; 04-23-2011 at 08:06 PM.
    2006 WRX
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    Old: 1998 2.5RS [url]

  11. #145
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    ^^

    Nice thanks for the informative post.
    Life is like riding a bicycle in order to keep your balance you must keep moving.

  12. #146
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    impreza 2.5i brake advice

    Hi,
    I know I don't have a WRX but this forum seems to be full of people that know what they are doing so you might be able to give me hint...
    I am changing the brake pads on my 2008... I have not taken it apart yet so i don't know if my rear ones are drums or disks. If my rear ones were to be drums:
    question 1: do i really need to readjust them after changing the front pads?
    question 2: subaru sells semi-metallic front pads for ~90 bucks. what is a good alternative to subaru brand pads? (Stuff i could buy at pep boys, checkers, autozone, etc.)Do you recommend going to ceramic? (it will be cleaner at least...)

    I drive my car on dirt roads or under snowy conditions and then of course in the city... but i don't race it. I don't really need super fancy components but I like to get decent quality stuff because i want my car to last.

    Any feedback is welcome
    Thank you ^_^

  13. #147
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    Pace, kudos for such a beautifully documented procedure for brake replacement. The first time I had a trusted mechanic replace mine he charged over $500 for the four wheels: 300+ for the fronts and 200+ for the rears at a later time. I have searched all over online, and in stores for a Haynes-type publication but none that apply to my 04 WRX can be found. My question is, would this procedure be applicable to an 04 WRX (wagon, not STI)? Again tons of thanks for this wonderfully clear documentation.
    ...Bob

  14. #148
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    Yes it is the same process. The STi brakes do differ and use pins but yours are as described here.
    WRX Info Links, Courtesy TheJ
    Man is a brute.... If you're cruel to him, he respects and fears you. If you're kind to him, he plucks your eyes out. Alexis Zorbas
    I lied. I cheated. I bribed men to cover the crimes of other men. I am an accessory to murder. But the most damning thing of all... I think I can live with it. And if I had to do it all over again - I would. Benjamin Sisko
    DISCLAIMER: Opinions expressed are the author's alone and are inherently worthless.

  15. #149
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    Thanks for the instructions

  16. #150
    Registered User Blue Rabbit's Avatar
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    Thanks for the write up. I replaced my pads and rotors this weekend and one think I might add when replacing rotors, is too be very careful removing the 2 M10 bolts on pad mounting bracket. The lower bolt was seized on both fronts. Broke the first off and borrowed an impact to take the other off. If you do break one, it is a generic M10 grade 8.8 bolt if you don't want to pay $5 for one from Subbby.

    I got my rotors from drt-sport. For the price (~$142 shipped) I was surprised to be able to get slotted and drilled rotors.

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