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This is a discussion on ECU reset within the Maintenance, service, and repair forums, part of the Tutorials & DIY category; Originally Posted by bhodgy41 yeah that must be it i didn't let the clutch out all the way cuz thats ...

  1. #46
    Moderator YBNormal07's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by bhodgy41 View Post
    yeah that must be it i didn't let the clutch out all the way cuz thats what it smells like since i just got my new clutch in it shouldn't be damaged to bad right? And if i didn't release the clutch all the way would the AM have worked like it should have.
    It was a rhetorical question. You are not supposed to let the clutch out all the way if you are using the "sitting still" method with the clutch, e-brake, and throttle.

    If you are using the rolling method, then yes, the clutch should be all the way out.

    What is "AM"?
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  3. #47
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    I was in an unfortunate situation where I had to remove my ECU overnight. I'm assuming it was reset. I have a Cobb AP and a pro-tuned mapping on my car before I had to pull the ECU. Do I need to push the tuned mapping from my AP back to my car, or is it still there?
    Thanks in advance.

  4. #48
    Registered User tayhadar1's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by mrrolf View Post
    I was in an unfortunate situation where I had to remove my ECU overnight. I'm assuming it was reset. I have a Cobb AP and a pro-tuned mapping on my car before I had to pull the ECU. Do I need to push the tuned mapping from my AP back to my car, or is it still there?
    Thanks in advance.
    If it is a true flash, meaning you are not running the realtime version of the map, it will still be there. Resetting the ecu does not erase the map on the ecu, but rather the learning the ecu has done. For example your car might have a knock at around 4500 rpm, and over time your ecu will correct for that knock and pull timing. It also resets the IAM, Ignition advanced multiplier, to .5 (i think), and you want that to be one to get the best performance. That is the point of resetting the ecu, so you can get IAM back to one
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  5. #49
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    how do you know if you've done it right? i was trying to put on some headers about a week ago and couldn't get them on. after bolting the stock ones back up i noticed i had an oil leak coming from the turbo. anyway, i got the leak fixed, but i also had a CEL. i took it to get looked at and they told me it was the o2 sensor behind the cat, which makes sense now that i also have a catless downpipe. so i installed the perrin o2 simulator and the CEL is gone. i don't think the code is gone though. since getting the initial CEL, my boost has been reduced to 5 or 6psi, from 11psi and i have this high pitched sound coming from under the hood on the drivers side. it only does it if i drive it hard. doesn't do it if i rev in neutral, doesn't do it at a specific mph or rpm, doesn't change pitches with the rpm as it would if it were a boost leak. i think its the ECU or some part of the cpu robbing me of boost even though it doesn't really feel sluggish. is there a way to know if you have reset the ECU correctly?

    or

    do you think it's just a faulty boost gauge. i have an electronic boost gauge. do you think it could be the sensor for the gauge thats under the hood whining at full boost? it's also on the driver's side. just thought of it, maybe i'll retest without boost gauge powered and see what happens.
    Last edited by RLR257; 04-25-2008 at 07:24 PM. Reason: typo

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    Moderator YBNormal07's Avatar
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    Please move all non-ECU reset discussions to the appropriate forums (or of course....I'll do it for you!)
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    Red face Re - ECU reset question

    Just got a question, ive got a 1994 wrx and just wondered does this ecu reset also apply to these older models aswell or isit just the bug eyed 1s??
    As my car was parked up for a few months and battery went completly dead and then I am sure the break pedal was pressed a few times while i pushed the car out the drive while it was not running and had on this dead battery.
    I have now put in a brand new battety and now i get a cel light come on and it does not go out even after driving it, would this have any thing to do with a psobile reset, or does the whole reset not applly to this model?? just curious as to why im getting this light all of a sudden.

  9. #53
    Moderator YBNormal07's Avatar
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    A reset can't hurt to try. Totally different ECU's though, but it certainly can't hurt it.
    tEh PriUs=teH faSTah!@@!
    08 Audi S5 Black Diamond edition
    SOLD: 05 SWP Legacy GT Limited 5MT, 13.3ish@105 (stage 2) crappy stock clutch
    SOLD: 04 MPS/SW WRX Sti. 12.971 @ 103.97 (stock)
    278 AWHP/283 AWT, Catback exhaust
    306 AWHP/341 AWT, Stage 2
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  10. #54
    Registered User wrxmuch?'s Avatar
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    Access Port ecu reset FTW!
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    the smoke is definately clutch! anyway, I did the ecu reset and 3rd gear boost up...smoked the S*** out of my new clutch, car feels like its ready for nascar after the reset! I also had a cold air intake that I cut, its a short ram now, runs GREAT!

  12. #56
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    Quote Originally Posted by ayoraider07 View Post
    the smoke is definately clutch! anyway, I did the ecu reset and 3rd gear boost up...smoked the S*** out of my new clutch, car feels like its ready for nascar after the reset! I also had a cold air intake that I cut, its a short ram now, runs GREAT!
    Shweet. Which short ram u get?
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    I warmed the car up, disconnected the battery, pumped the brakes flashed the lights flicked the radio honked the horn etc etc then I recieved a phonecall so im guessing in all left the battery off around 12 mins.

    Jumped out the car, plonked the negative back on, tightened it up, jumped back in the car, grinning with excitement, fired up the car slapped it in 3rd, took it to 3krm slipped the clutch, held the E-Brake on, the car dipped low the boost was flying, so I wound it up to 4-5krm to get more POOOOWWWWWEEEEERRRRR!!!!

    Then HISSSSSSSS, brrrrrrrr, revs dropped to 4k then 3k, not wanting to leave boost I planted my foot flat to the floor, 2k 1k

    Ok so be-it it probably worked....yeah .....right.......

    Slapped it in first, took off got to 3k BOOST! 4K no boost 5k no boost 6K BOOST!

    2nd 3k BOOST! 4K no boost 5k no boost 6K BOOST!

    Etc etc throughout the gears.


    So yeah, the turbos still spooling up because the induction kit is whoooooosssshhhhhing from 3-7k but it hardly shifts from 4-6k then it takes off again


    Is it shagged?

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    Will this method really work? Just wondering because according to another forum (ecu reset - Subaru Impreza Forum - WRX STI Rally Performance Tuning), they have a non volotile memory that won't reset when the power is disconnected. They recommend buying a cable to hook your computer to your ecu and use a free program called Romraider to reset everything. Just wondering what your thoughts are.

    Also, what exactly is torque braking?

  15. #59
    Admiral Ackbar the 1st mycologist's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by dttruax View Post
    Will this method really work? Just wondering because according to another forum (ecu reset - Subaru Impreza Forum - WRX STI Rally Performance Tuning), they have a non volotile memory that won't reset when the power is disconnected. They recommend buying a cable to hook your computer to your ecu and use a free program called Romraider to reset everything. Just wondering what your thoughts are.

    Also, what exactly is torque braking?
    I am sorry but I have no idea what "non-volatile" means technically in this context. I have read far more times that if you not only disconnect the bat. but drain the reserve power by pushing the brakes it will reset as opposed to this one post you link. However, this is some seriously old school thread and I have personally only used an AP or a cable and romraider myself. I didn't reread the thread but I am guessing they are talking about riding your brakes to get your IAM up after a reflash. Don't do that. You can set where your map resets to in the editor.
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  16. #60
    Registered User Poohbear's Avatar
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    ^exactly what is non volatile memory? I know what non volatile means, but what

    Maybe he means ROM?

    Although ROM and non volatile are not exactly synonymous lol...

    I hope I dont have volatile memory in my ecu, end up giving my turbo cancer or something...
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