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This is a discussion on ECU reset within the Maintenance, service, and repair forums, part of the Tutorials & DIY category; wouldnt that burn you clutch tring to take off in 3rd gear??...

  1. #16
    Registered User bboynems's Avatar
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    wouldnt that burn you clutch tring to take off in 3rd gear??

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  3. #17
    Registered User WRX2006's Avatar
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    One can also actually drive the car, but you must stay in vaccum for the whole approach until you are ready to make the 3rd gear run.

    And yeah this works, as soon as you shift out of the 3rd run and down to second.. it's like having some upgrade just turn on all of a sudden.

  4. #18
    Moderator YBNormal07's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by bboynems View Post
    wouldnt that burn you clutch tring to take off in 3rd gear??
    Ditto what was said earlier. The object is to maintain a mid to high steady level of boost for a duration which really can't be achieved unless you are in 5th (or 6th for the STi) and at high rate of speed....and even here the boost is still climbing, which will have an impact on the ecu reset rate.

    In short, if you do it right, there is not threat at all to the clutch. In 3rd, it doesn't really put a lot of torque on the drivetrain, but it is low enough for the ECU to quickly allow some boost.

    For those with some minor mods...exhaust, etc....you won't believe the difference this makes. It really is noticable.
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  5. #19
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    im going to try this now
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  6. #20
    Registered User yo vanilla's Avatar
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    i remember doing this with my 03. can i safely assume the 07 with the 2.5L is no different then?
    07 WRX TR | 03 mazda6
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  7. #21
    Moderator YBNormal07's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by yo vanilla View Post
    i remember doing this with my 03. can i safely assume the 07 with the 2.5L is no different then?
    Only one way to find out? Give it a try and let us know!
    tEh PriUs=teH faSTah!@@!
    08 Audi S5 Black Diamond edition
    SOLD: 05 SWP Legacy GT Limited 5MT, 13.3ish@105 (stage 2) crappy stock clutch
    SOLD: 04 MPS/SW WRX Sti. 12.971 @ 103.97 (stock)
    278 AWHP/283 AWT, Catback exhaust
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  8. #22
    Registered User yo vanilla's Avatar
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    well i have 1500 miles now, that should be enough to warrant a reset.

    however the above procedure looks different than what i remember - i remember driving during the boost-holding part?
    07 WRX TR | 03 mazda6
    man a whole mess of nachos sounds good right now
    ***Hawk-Eye Alliance #95*** Kachow!!

  9. #23
    Moderator YBNormal07's Avatar
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    As long as you can maintain positive boost pressure for greater than 5 seconds, it should work. Doing this without breaking will be a bit tough to do, so I guess you could theoretically brake torque the car while it is moving so you don't end up at an excessive rate of speed. I'd try it is 3rd or 4th, starting just below boost RPM (3 grand or so), then start accelrating while applying brake pressure at the same time. For those worried about burning out the clutch, this could be an alternative method.
    tEh PriUs=teH faSTah!@@!
    08 Audi S5 Black Diamond edition
    SOLD: 05 SWP Legacy GT Limited 5MT, 13.3ish@105 (stage 2) crappy stock clutch
    SOLD: 04 MPS/SW WRX Sti. 12.971 @ 103.97 (stock)
    278 AWHP/283 AWT, Catback exhaust
    306 AWHP/341 AWT, Stage 2
    (Scott) Moderator-STi, Drag Racing, Car Purchasing, and Tutorial Forums

  10. #24
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    "so I guess you could theoretically brake torque the car while it is moving so you don't end up at an excessive rate of speed"


    I'm intrigued as to why you would prefer to load the clutch than the brakes... I would think that the load on the brakes for 5 seconds on a freeway at full boost would cause much less wear than using the clutch and brakes to hold the car stationary at full boost

    But I don't know much about it, so perhaps I'm missing something...

  11. #25
    Moderator YBNormal07's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by bluedog View Post
    "so I guess you could theoretically brake torque the car while it is moving so you don't end up at an excessive rate of speed"


    I'm intrigued as to why you would prefer to load the clutch than the brakes... I would think that the load on the brakes for 5 seconds on a freeway at full boost would cause much less wear than using the clutch and brakes to hold the car stationary at full boost

    But I don't know much about it, so perhaps I'm missing something...
    I'm thinking this is getting a bit more complicated that it is. It's simple. Turn car on. Put clutch in. Set E-brake full on. Place in 3rd. Give throttle. Slowly let up on clutch while giving throttle to keep RPMS above 3K/positive boost pressure. Keep clutch slightly out and throttle slightly in for ~ 5 seconds. Done.

    There is likely less abuse to the clutch than a normal spirited takeoff. It's over before you know it. Yes, you can also brake torque it while moving, but for me, there is now a safety risk to others when focusing on doing this rather than driving. I'd rather keep it safe and simple right in my own driveway.
    tEh PriUs=teH faSTah!@@!
    08 Audi S5 Black Diamond edition
    SOLD: 05 SWP Legacy GT Limited 5MT, 13.3ish@105 (stage 2) crappy stock clutch
    SOLD: 04 MPS/SW WRX Sti. 12.971 @ 103.97 (stock)
    278 AWHP/283 AWT, Catback exhaust
    306 AWHP/341 AWT, Stage 2
    (Scott) Moderator-STi, Drag Racing, Car Purchasing, and Tutorial Forums

  12. #26
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    Does this also apply to Cobb stage 2 or even 1 for that matter? Will folks with these maps realize additional gains? Just curious....

    thx

  13. #27
    Moderator YBNormal07's Avatar
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    It is more a "ratio" type increase in HP, so the more your are putting out, the less you will feel it after you reset the ECU. Yes, it still works with stage 1-2 maps, but isn't as noticable when compared to a stock map.

    Also..some folks might be forgetting...this happens anytime you reset your ECU eventually anyway...it just takes longer if you let it "learn" on it's own.
    tEh PriUs=teH faSTah!@@!
    08 Audi S5 Black Diamond edition
    SOLD: 05 SWP Legacy GT Limited 5MT, 13.3ish@105 (stage 2) crappy stock clutch
    SOLD: 04 MPS/SW WRX Sti. 12.971 @ 103.97 (stock)
    278 AWHP/283 AWT, Catback exhaust
    306 AWHP/341 AWT, Stage 2
    (Scott) Moderator-STi, Drag Racing, Car Purchasing, and Tutorial Forums

  14. #28
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    Quote Originally Posted by YBNormal07 View Post
    Yes, you can also brake torque it while moving, ... I'd rather keep it safe and simple right in my own driveway.
    Fair enough then. I reset my ECU last night, and I'll try your recommendation.

  15. #29
    Registered User MindzeyeWRX02's Avatar
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    I just bought an 02 wrx about a month ago. it came with a catback and CAI.

    My question is, is it a good idea for me to reset the ECU?? I do not know the history of the car.

    If i do reset the ECU, how long will it usually take to learn without doing the 3rd gear trick or breaking?

    Thanks for the info! Good write up.

  16. #30
    Moderator YBNormal07's Avatar
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    My experience has been that the ECU basically adapts to your driving habits. This has a lot to do with open/closed loop tuning/response which I won't get into right now, but suffice to say, your car "learns" in a non-boost mode, and uses preset set maps once you are into boost.

    So, if you drive aggresively after an ECU reset, for the period of time that you drive this way, the car will respond a bit quicker and retain it longer. The intial change would take anywhere from a few days to a few weeks. However, not everyone continuously accelerates hard into boost, every time, every shift, so eventually the ECU will adapt and the car looses some of the edge.

    The only time I ever did this was once before a trip to the drag strip, and a few times for non-hp related items associated with maintenance or modifications. I kind of look at it as eventually, it settles back down to it's normal..."all-around" settings where it is good at everything (accel, passing, gas mileage, etc), but no longer has that slightley better kick in the pants feeling the reset gives you.

    Also something to consider..the reset lasts about as long as the first set of knock events are recorded. Once that occurs, timing starts getting retarded and the ECU learns that whatever caused the knock to occur is a no-no, and will adjust accordingly. Typically, this will happen on hot days, or if you get a dose of bad gas. Which is why my thoughts have always been that if this is the case, then basically I am sitting on the edge when it comes to ECU tuning parameters every time I reset the ECU. So I ask myself, is this really worth it to me? Not really. Does it really hurt anything? Probably not, but as my daily driver and a father of 4, it just doesn't fit into my overall equation to even go there. For others...shouldn't be an issue at all.

    Just so everyone is clear, these are my thoughts and experiences, and certainly should not be taken as gospel, hard-facts. Yours will certainly be different and you should approach how you drive and treat your car accordingly.
    Last edited by YBNormal07; 05-02-2007 at 01:43 PM.
    tEh PriUs=teH faSTah!@@!
    08 Audi S5 Black Diamond edition
    SOLD: 05 SWP Legacy GT Limited 5MT, 13.3ish@105 (stage 2) crappy stock clutch
    SOLD: 04 MPS/SW WRX Sti. 12.971 @ 103.97 (stock)
    278 AWHP/283 AWT, Catback exhaust
    306 AWHP/341 AWT, Stage 2
    (Scott) Moderator-STi, Drag Racing, Car Purchasing, and Tutorial Forums

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