Brake Rotor Replacement
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This is a discussion on Brake Rotor Replacement within the Maintenance, service, and repair forums, part of the Tutorials & DIY category; Ok, as of last night, I have upgraded the rotors on the scooby. Here is what I thought should be ...

  1. #1
    Registered User dcraw6782's Avatar
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    Brake Rotor Replacement - pics are here!

    Ok, as of last night, I have upgraded the rotors on the scooby. Here is what I thought should be passed on.

    Fronts - easy - pull the wheel (duh)
    There are 2 14mm bolts that hold the caliper to the bracket - i undid them to make it easier to get the bracket off. they are located on the inside (towards midline of the car, or medial) of the caliper, and are not on too tight.
    Take off the caliper and SUPPORT IT!! don't let it hang from the brake line!
    After you have the caliper off, there are 2 17mm bolts that hold the caliper mounting bracket on - they are on TIGHT! I didnt use any WD-40 or anything becaus they are so close to the brake rotors, but if you were carful, i guess you could.
    Anyway, after the caliper and bracket are off, the rotor SHOULD slide right off. If it dosent, there are 2 8mm bolt holes that you can thread bolts into and they will pop the rotor off. Then simply slide the new one on, and replace the bracket and caliper. If you want, to make it a bit easier to reassemble, bolt the caliper to the bracket before you mount it back on the car.

    After that, align everything and put the wheel back on.....fronts are done!

    REARS: bit more of a PITA, and can be a nasty surprise (it was for me) the rear brake uses a disc, and the parking brake (e-brake) is a rear drum, which i was not aware of, but am now for sure
    to release the back rotors, the procedure is much the same, except that the braket bolts on the rear are 14mm, and the caliper and bracket come off easily as one piece. However, if you can, get the car on a flat surface and release the e-brake, and the rotor will slide off, and you can get the new one on. If you cannot do this, it will be impossible to get the new rotor on without disabling the e-brake completely.

    I didnt figure this out, and proceeded to manually tighten the drum with the adjuster screw until i had NO E-BRAKE - and i can't fix it until it quits raining. So, with the car in GEAR and the ebrake off, slide old rotor off, and the new on, and then bolt EVERYTHING back on (including the wheel) before reengaging the hand brake. I figured out this last step in retrospect, and i get steadily more annoyed the more i think about it.

    SIDE NOTE: if you are like me, and moronically screwed up your ebrake, there is a way to fix it without taking everything apart again. put the rear of the car on ramps, climb under, and look at the 6 o'clock position of the interior brake surface (its a flat plate that is inside the wheel, and butts up against the swaybar endlink) After you have located that, there is a small (about 1 inch) oblong rubber plug that can be removed, and the manual adjuster screw for the ebrake can be accessed. you can get it tight this way, but be prepared to be under there awhile, and say a lot of really bad words. my friend just got a digicam, and when he gets is set up, i will try to "borrow" it, and post some pics.

    Best of luck.......
    - DC
    Last edited by dcraw6782; 03-26-2004 at 07:19 PM.
    "Let me never be accused of standing between a Charlestonian and his drink" - J. Kuhn

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  3. #2
    Registered User JRod's Avatar
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    Nice and clear cut, thanks. Stoptech slotted front rotors will be my next mod. What rotors did you go with?
    2002 WRX Sedan-Silver
    Turbo XS UTEC Stage IV (VF34)+TMIC, STI RA gears, Exedy clutch/flywheel

  4. #3
    Registered User dcraw6782's Avatar
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    I am running DBA slotted and drilled - got a great deal on them, and according to DBA, these arent supposed to crack prematurely, so we wil see.........................
    - DC
    "Let me never be accused of standing between a Charlestonian and his drink" - J. Kuhn

  5. #4
    Moderator MidKnight's Avatar
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    I have stoptech slotted front and rears. They're good.


    I had issues with the rear brakes too! I must have spent 20 minutes banging at the rotor with a rubber mallet before my dad walked by and released the ebrake while i was yanking on the rotor.... Got a nice bump on my head from that one!
    '03 WRX
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  6. #5
    Registered User dcraw6782's Avatar
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    Ok, now have th brakes on the car where I want them, and DAMN, that thing will get stopped in a hurry. Here is my current setup:
    Goodridge SS lines
    Motul 600 Fluid
    Carbotech bobcat pads
    DBA slotted and x-drilled rotors

    Got all the stuff tweaked and bedded this past weekend, and went out for some trial runs - WOW, for the stock calipers and master cylinder, this thing will really stop. comes down hard from 100+mph, and there is very little brake fade even after repeated had braking - saved my ass on the interstate yesterday from a deer - well worth it. the pads dust a bit, but i guess that is just the price you pay - and its well worth it. I didnt measure, but i am guessing i can get from 60-0 in under 200 feet with the current rubber i have on - not too shabby for stock calipers.
    - DC
    "Let me never be accused of standing between a Charlestonian and his drink" - J. Kuhn

  7. #6
    Registered User dcraw6782's Avatar
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    PICS ARE UP!!!!!!!
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails rotor1.jpg  
    "Let me never be accused of standing between a Charlestonian and his drink" - J. Kuhn

  8. #7
    Registered User dcraw6782's Avatar
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    another shot
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails rotor2.jpg  
    "Let me never be accused of standing between a Charlestonian and his drink" - J. Kuhn

  9. #8
    Registered User dcraw6782's Avatar
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    one more closeup
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails rotor3.jpg  
    "Let me never be accused of standing between a Charlestonian and his drink" - J. Kuhn

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