Ok, as of last night, I have upgraded the rotors on the scooby. Here is what I thought should be passed on.
Fronts - easy - pull the wheel (duh)
There are 2 14mm bolts that hold the caliper to the bracket - i undid them to make it easier to get the bracket off. they are located on the inside (towards midline of the car, or medial) of the caliper, and are not on too tight.
Take off the caliper and SUPPORT IT!! don't let it hang from the brake line!
After you have the caliper off, there are 2 17mm bolts that hold the caliper mounting bracket on - they are on TIGHT! I didnt use any WD-40 or anything becaus they are so close to the brake rotors, but if you were carful, i guess you could.
Anyway, after the caliper and bracket are off, the rotor SHOULD slide right off. If it dosent, there are 2 8mm bolt holes that you can thread bolts into and they will pop the rotor off. Then simply slide the new one on, and replace the bracket and caliper. If you want, to make it a bit easier to reassemble, bolt the caliper to the bracket before you mount it back on the car.
After that, align everything and put the wheel back on.....fronts are done!
REARS: bit more of a PITA, and can be a nasty surprise (it was for me) the rear brake uses a disc, and the parking brake (e-brake) is a rear drum, which i was not aware of, but am now for sure
to release the back rotors, the procedure is much the same, except that the braket bolts on the rear are 14mm, and the caliper and bracket come off easily as one piece. However, if you can, get the car on a flat surface and release the e-brake, and the rotor will slide off, and you can get the new one on. If you cannot do this, it will be impossible to get the new rotor on without disabling the e-brake completely.
I didnt figure this out, and proceeded to manually tighten the drum with the adjuster screw until i had NO E-BRAKE - and i can't fix it until it quits raining. So, with the car in GEAR and the ebrake off, slide old rotor off, and the new on, and then bolt EVERYTHING back on (including the wheel) before reengaging the hand brake. I figured out this last step in retrospect, and i get steadily more annoyed the more i think about it.
SIDE NOTE: if you are like me, and moronically screwed up your ebrake, there is a way to fix it without taking everything apart again. put the rear of the car on ramps, climb under, and look at the 6 o'clock position of the interior brake surface (its a flat plate that is inside the wheel, and butts up against the swaybar endlink) After you have located that, there is a small (about 1 inch) oblong rubber plug that can be removed, and the manual adjuster screw for the ebrake can be accessed. you can get it tight this way, but be prepared to be under there awhile, and say a lot of really bad words. my friend just got a digicam, and when he gets is set up, i will try to "borrow" it, and post some pics.
Best of luck.......