Timing Belt and Water Pump Replacement - Page 8
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This is a discussion on Timing Belt and Water Pump Replacement within the Maintenance, service, and repair forums, part of the Tutorials & DIY category; Any opinions on this company and kit? Gates Timing Belt Kit Subaru WRX 06-07 and STi 04-14 TCKWP328 gotboostinc.com...

  1. #106
    Registered User Buzz's Avatar
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    06 TR, COBB AP2,,COBB DP, K&N sr, G200 CB
    Subaru factory short throw, Auto dimm Rear view, Factory fog lamp kit (self installed)
    AM cobalt gauges: WB fuel, oil press (elec), boost (mech,30hg-20+)

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  3. #107
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    Superb write up. very Easy to follow with logical pictures! A couple of points I will add.

    - This one's already been covered but I'll go over it again. What do you do to lock the Crankshaft when removing the Crank Pulley Bolt. I stuck mine in fourth gear with the handbrake on (e-brake for the USA viewers) and that worked fine.

    - Not all Subaru DOHC engines run the extra Idler between the Tensioner and the RH Top Cam pulley (looking at the front of the engine) but the kit I bought had the extra bits to do the job if required. Apparently it's something to do with the extra thickness of certain head gaskets? Thick gasket = no small idler, thin gasket = additional small idler. The reason is that it allows the use of the same length Timing Belt when the Cam Pulleys are effectively closer together by making the timing belt route a little longer.
    Last edited by Woznaldo; 04-10-2015 at 03:39 AM. Reason: Punctuation and extra info on small idler.

  4. #108
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    Quote Originally Posted by section9 View Post
    22. The right side cams (as you're facing the car) is under tension and will spin during the course of your work. You'll need an allen socket and ratchet to get the bottom cam timed and to keep in in place as you work the belt on. Someone needs to keep the belt in place and keep everything in proper timing as you work to get the belt around the bottom right cam. Only move the cams in specified directions to avoid damaging the valves!
    so just to confirm , the driver side pulleys , which are under compression , happen to loose contact of each mark & spin out , this is the proper direction to turn them to get them back into the correct "timing position" ? being that the pulleys(all 4) seem to be the same size , theres no way that they can actually be out of time by rotation as per the revolution & if the pulleys are rotated in the direction as shown in the illustration & the marks match back up the timing should be back to the same as it was before you pulled the belt off & your drunk buddy knocked the vice-grips off that had the 2 driver side pulleys locked into position ?

  5. #109
    Actually a SuperSpy. Take Care. SD_GR's Avatar
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    In short, ONLY MOVE THE PULLEYS ONE AT A TIME and ONLY IN THE DIRECTION INDICATED in the diagram from the factory manual in that link.
    WRX Info Links, Courtesy TheJ
    Πως έγινε με τούτο τον αιώνα και γύρισε καπάκι η ζωή
    Πως το ’φεραν η μοίρα και τα χρόνια να μην ακούσεις έναν ποιητή
    Manos Eleftheriou
    DISCLAIMER: Opinions expressed are the author's alone and are inherently worthless.

  6. #110
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    ok ! , i appreciate your quick responses SD_GR !! you have been most helpful !! thanks you ! does it matter if i have the AVCS ? its not depicted in the write up that i saw but should be the same right ? same rotation for both intake & exhaust ? turn one in the direction as indicated , lock it in place , turn the other in the direction as indicated & match up the marks & lock & load correct ?

  7. #111
    Actually a SuperSpy. Take Care. SD_GR's Avatar
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    I do not know about AVCS, sorry. My car lacks AVCS.
    WRX Info Links, Courtesy TheJ
    Πως έγινε με τούτο τον αιώνα και γύρισε καπάκι η ζωή
    Πως το ’φεραν η μοίρα και τα χρόνια να μην ακούσεις έναν ποιητή
    Manos Eleftheriou
    DISCLAIMER: Opinions expressed are the author's alone and are inherently worthless.

  8. #112
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    i will search more , i appreciate your help , thanks !

  9. #113
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    I am by no means a mechanic nor an automotive expert, but I do all of my own auto maintenance and dive gradually into more advanced projects; therefore I am going to insert my 2 pennies on this.

    Just did this work on my 2006 WRX this weekend (97,500 miles), this thread provided a lot of useful information, thank you very much. I had a complication with the timing belt covers - the center cover, the bottom left bolt (the only one where the bolt and nut are both exposed to the environment) was so rusted that the bolt and nut fused together. We broke the timing belt cover locally trying to get it off (only about a 1 square inch piece, but front and back cover). Glued the timing belt back together with some very high strength glue, so it turned out to be a non-issue for now (if I have to replace the timing belt again, I will be a Subaru owner for life). Also replaced the radiator, hoses, alternator and AC belts while I was at it. A cam lock would have been invaluable - at TDC, the LH cams compress a spring on the valves (does that sound right?) which makes it hard to line up these cams - took us a good hour to get the new belt on, but we didn't have to take it off and redo it thankfully.... would have shot myself.

    The Subaru dealer in Toledo quoted me $960 for just replacing the water pump and timing belt. Took us close to 8 hours since we didn't know what we were doing to start. If we knew exactly what we were doing, shouldn't have taken us more than 4-5 hours. For $450 including shipping, (thanks Rock Auto), I purchased a Gates timing belt kit (including the idler pulleys and water pump), alternator and AC belt, radiator, hoses, thermostat, spark plugs, other miscellaneous crap. Over a 50% savings.

    One thing to note was the crankshaft bolt - we couldn't fit an impact wrench without taking out the condensor (which wasn't going to happen), so we hopped in the car, put the car in gear, stepped on the brakes, used a 2 foot breaker bar and loosened the crankshaft bolt. Really wasn't that bad to get off. Based on what my stepdad told me when they did the TB on his Civic, it took 3 of them and a 4 foot pole to get that crankshaft bolt loose.

    When we finished, was driving around making sure everything was running properly, noted the car was running hot - after a few fills w/ coolant, finally realized we had to top off the tank near the intercooler. Typically runs 1/2 way between H and C, but was running on 2nd tick going 40 mph. Figured we had forgotten something, added some coolant to the Intercooler reservoir, and its back to normal now!

  10. #114
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    great info from everybody joined this group so i can do the belt and water pump on my brothers car 05 wrx wagon cheers Drew

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