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This is a discussion on Timing Belt and Water Pump Replacement within the Maintenance, service, and repair forums, part of the Tutorials & DIY category; The passenger side (USA) cam gears should still be in place after removing the belt cause they're not under tension ...

  1. #91
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    The passenger side (USA) cam gears should still be in place after removing the belt cause they're not under tension , right? And if I do have to turn them, just turn them the same direction as the drivers side (USA) cam gears?
    Last edited by infiniteboost; 04-07-2011 at 04:04 PM.
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  3. #92
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    Mine were generally in place, yes. I asked the same question and didn't get a specific answer either, so i just lined them up by moving them a few teeth either way as necessary. I only moved one at a time. I do not know if there is a correct and incorrect direction to move the passenger side gears.
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  4. #93
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    so ive got a bent belt guide on the passenger side exhaust cam...is it vital to have on there? the other ones are installed, but this one is junk and i have no idea where to get another. otherwise, ive been following this and everything else is done. thanks for the write up!

  5. #94
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    Quote Originally Posted by crvtec54 View Post
    so ive got a bent belt guide on the passenger side exhaust cam...is it vital to have on there? the other ones are installed, but this one is junk and i have no idea where to get another. otherwise, ive been following this and everything else is done. thanks for the write up!
    I have heard rumours of some motors not having one guide or another but every motor I have seen, including mine, has them. I honestly don't know. In theory if all goes well the belt and the guide should never meet.

    I'd find a wrecker or order one from a dealer if it were me though.

    I hope someone that knows the motor well chimes in; it's an interesting question and one for which I don't have a confident answer, sorry.
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  6. #95
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    Couple of bucks from the dealership. Do it.
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  7. #96
    ELH
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    Im gonna give this a shot on my 05 wrx. I have no idea what im doing but nice descriptions

  8. #97
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    I was apprehensive but lucked out in that I got excellent guidance here and in the thread about removing the cam seals. A friend and luck both help. It's a job.
    WRX Info Links, Courtesy TheJ
    Man is a brute.... If you're cruel to him, he respects and fears you. If you're kind to him, he plucks your eyes out. Alexis Zorbas
    I lied. I cheated. I bribed men to cover the crimes of other men. I am an accessory to murder. But the most damning thing of all... I think I can live with it. And if I had to do it all over again - I would. Benjamin Sisko
    DISCLAIMER: Opinions expressed are the author's alone and are inherently worthless.

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    About to do this on an 04 WRX and have thoroughly read this thread, only question I have is what ft lbs to do the rollers.

  10. #99
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    Quote Originally Posted by nateS4 View Post
    About to do this on an 04 WRX and have thoroughly read this thread, only question I have is what ft lbs to do the rollers.
    Ft*lbs are deeply discouraging, I'd have hoped nobody would be using these units in the 20th, let alone the 21st century, but that's another story.

    Nonetheless, Subaru provide the info. The rollers are called "idlers" in Subaruish, are all "T4" bolts and for these the manual specs

    28.9 ft*lb, which is actually 39 Nm.

    (Using Nm is like a breath of fresh air!).

    The tensioner however has a "T3" bolt, and that's at

    18.1 ft*lb or 25 Nm.

    The belt guides (the small metal things on the extreme edges of the belt near each cam sprocket) have "T2" bolts

    7 ft*lb or 10 Nm.

    The cam sprockets themselves at least for the 2002 motor (2,0 l) use a 10mm hex female bolt, meaning to remove the cam sprockets (should you chose to do so for any reason) you'll need a 10 mm male hex bit, and they are "T5"

    72.4 ft*lb or 98 Nm.

    For the crank pulley bolt, first clean the threads. Then apply oil to the threads and bolt base. Install the pulley and bolt, and initially tighten to 33 ft*lb (44Nm). Then go to the final torque, 94 ft*lb (127 Nm).

    All this is from diagramme EN1136, factory US manual, engine section, ME(DOHC TURBO)-6.

    Good luck, sounds like a full weekend's work ahead.
    Last edited by SD_GR; 06-01-2012 at 02:41 PM.
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    Man is a brute.... If you're cruel to him, he respects and fears you. If you're kind to him, he plucks your eyes out. Alexis Zorbas
    I lied. I cheated. I bribed men to cover the crimes of other men. I am an accessory to murder. But the most damning thing of all... I think I can live with it. And if I had to do it all over again - I would. Benjamin Sisko
    DISCLAIMER: Opinions expressed are the author's alone and are inherently worthless.

  11. #100
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    Quote Originally Posted by SD_GR View Post
    Ft*lbs are deeply discouraging, I'd have hoped nobody would be using these units in the 20th, let alone the 21st century, but that's another story.

    Nonetheless, Subaru provide the info. The rollers are called "idlers" in Subaruish, are all "T4" bolts and for these the manual specs

    28.9 ft*lb, which is actually 39 Nm.

    (Using Nm is like a breath of fresh air!).

    The tensioner however has a "T3" bolt, and that's at

    18.1 ft*lb or 25 Nm.

    The belt guides (the small metal things on the extreme edges of the belt near each cam sprocket) have "T2" bolts

    7 ft*lb or 10 Nm.

    The cam sprockets themselves at least for the 2002 motor (2,0 l) use a 10mm hex female bolt, meaning to remove the cam sprockets (should you chose to do so for any reason) you'll need a 10 mm male hex bit, and they are "T5"

    72.4 ft*lb or 98 Nm.

    For the crank pulley bolt, first clean the threads. Then apply oil to the threads and bolt base. Install the pulley and bolt, and initially tighten to 33 ft*lb (44Nm). Then go to the final torque, 94 ft*lb (127 Nm).

    All this is from diagramme EN1136, factory US manual, engine section, ME(DOHC TURBO)-6.

    Good luck, sounds like a full weekend's work ahead.
    Wow, that was a fast and thorough response! As far as the ft lbs goes that what the person was using in the right up.... I personally own 3 German cars and would much rather use Nm any day of the week. This will be my first boxer motor to ever work on so I am actually really excited, in the Audi S4 world I have to pull the bumper and sometimes the motor to do most things on it. The only thing that bothers me about this install is I don't have a cam lock tool and there will obviously be movement and I'm just gonna have to accept that. Thanks again the posts I've read are very reassuring about the knowledge base on this forum.

  12. #101
    ELH
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    Awesome. I'm attempting to do this myself in about 5 days and this is a huge help. Any videos that you know of I can watch or get more info? The dealership wants 910.00 to do the timing belt and pump. Can't afford it and I would rather do it myself anyway to learn. I have performed other minor maintenance on my 05 wrx but this is a big deal that cannot be messed up. Thanks for any additional info

  13. #102
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    Sorry I tend to avoid videos do I don't know. Maybe the original posters can respond.
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    Man is a brute.... If you're cruel to him, he respects and fears you. If you're kind to him, he plucks your eyes out. Alexis Zorbas
    I lied. I cheated. I bribed men to cover the crimes of other men. I am an accessory to murder. But the most damning thing of all... I think I can live with it. And if I had to do it all over again - I would. Benjamin Sisko
    DISCLAIMER: Opinions expressed are the author's alone and are inherently worthless.

  14. #103
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    i followed your tutorial step by step and it wont fire now pulled a plug has fuel but no fire any ideas

  15. #104
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    Check fuses, cam and crank angle sensors?
    WRX Info Links, Courtesy TheJ
    Man is a brute.... If you're cruel to him, he respects and fears you. If you're kind to him, he plucks your eyes out. Alexis Zorbas
    I lied. I cheated. I bribed men to cover the crimes of other men. I am an accessory to murder. But the most damning thing of all... I think I can live with it. And if I had to do it all over again - I would. Benjamin Sisko
    DISCLAIMER: Opinions expressed are the author's alone and are inherently worthless.

  16. #105
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    Quote Originally Posted by section9 View Post
    7. Remove the crankshaft pulley. You'll need an impact wrench or a strap wrench to hold the pulley still. You'll need a 22mm socket.
    if you cant fit an impact wrench, put the car in 5th gear and have someone apply the brakes or use a bar to press on the pedal. that worked for me!

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