Timing Belt and Water Pump Replacement - Page 5
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This is a discussion on Timing Belt and Water Pump Replacement within the Maintenance, service, and repair forums, part of the Tutorials & DIY category; I am getting ready to replace the timing belt on my 1998 EJ25. One question I have is about the ...

  1. #61
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    Question about cams

    I am getting ready to replace the timing belt on my 1998 EJ25.

    One question I have is about the camshaft locking tools that Subaru sellls for hundreds of bucks. I can't afford them, but it does sound like the job is easier by locking down the camshafts so that they cannot rotate before removing the timing belt.

    My question is, when I remove the belt, will the camshafts on the driver side cause damage when they are released and spin? Sounds like they are under tension and will spin, but do they need to be locked so as not to cause valve damage?

    I am considering trying to rig a camshaft lock using socket wrenches, but am not sure if this is really necessary.

    Thanks!

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  3. #62
    Registered User T.J.'s Avatar
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    They rotated when I did our Forester and I didn't hear any contact or have any damage that I know of. I'm guessing that if you have the crank shaft mark lined up, the valves won't hit the pistons if they spin. Can anyone confirm this?

    Good luck, T.J.
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  4. #63
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    Thanks TJ, good to know that those valves won't smack into one another after the belt comes off. Sounds like the camshaft lock is unnecessary after all. It would be hard to spend that kind of dough on something used only once in a great while.

  5. #64
    Registered User T.J.'s Avatar
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    Yeah, all I can do is relate my experience though. You might check w/ the Ultimate Subaru Message Board to confirm my hunch.

    Ultimate Subaru Message Board

    They are a lot more familiar w/ non-turbo subarus and extended maintenance than this forum. Let us know how it goes.

    Later, T.J.
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    Old Irish adage: "Do not resent growing old. Many are denied the privilege."

  6. #65
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    Great DIY. A couple things, having followed it this weekend to do my first timing belt ever.

    Use a silver marker to mark the timing belt on it's edge. The lines on the OEM belt don't translate to the marks on the gears as well as they do when you add a mark on the edge.

    Use a small mirror to check if the lower marks are aligned correctly. From above, the angle really makes it hard to tell.

    I ordered all of the idlers and the tensioner as well as the crank seal, the thermostat, the water pump and corresponding seals and gaskets. The only idler that showed any wear was the very small one near the top right. The idlers and the tensioner all looked new but I replaced them anyway. NOTE: One of the idlers has been superceeded (bottom left with red ring) to the exact same one that is above and to the right of it. So when you order all idlers, you'll get two of part 13073AA142. One looks identicle to the part it's replacing, the other doesn't. I didn't know this until I called the online dealer that sold me the parts and told him he'd made a mistake. He said the only mistake he'd made was forgetting to tell me about one part superceeding another.

    I skipped replacing the crank seal. Mine looked perfect and I understand they're a real ***** to remove so I said F it.

    I would start the DIY by jacking up the front of the car and putting it on jackstands. Then you'll want to remove the plastic undertray. This gives you access to the lower PS fan plug and drain ****. You can skip the drain**** and just pull the lower hose though. Otherwise it takes forever to drain and I understand that the drane ****s can leak or break easily. Plus they drain the coolant all over the subframe and you get coolant everywhere. In addition to a pan, have a large rag or ten standing by.

    Um, what else? Oh, one of the large cogs didn't want to stay as the valve springs kept pushing it one way or the other and a ratchet can only be locked in one direction so we used the breaker bar on it which helped a lot.

    Oh, the best way to remove the crank bolt is to have a friend put it in 5th gear (6th in an STi) and step on the brake while you use a breaker bar on it. Works great.

    I also broke the plastic part of the AC belt tensioner because I neglected to loosen the bolt that goes through the wheel on the tensioner before trying to loosen the tension by spinning the long bolt that is the tensioner. Make sure you loosen the necesary bolts before adjusting both belt tensioners. It was only $6 at the local dealer though and fortunately it was in stock.

    Oh, and we didn't remove any of the belt guides. It's not necessary since the belt just slides off the front of the idlers they're installed around.

    Thanks again for a really good DIY. Seriously, the pictures and diagrams are really great. I tried to use the text only version I'd printed out and I ended up bringing the laptop out to the garage.


  7. #66
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    I recently purchased my Timingbelt kit and waterpump...I know everyone likes to just replace everything just for the sake of extra precaution but am going off you guys for a 2nd opinion since I really trust my mechanic. In this kit it has the Hydralic Adjuster Bearing...not an assembly...with the assembly I'm assuming it is the housing (cylinder integral) that it would exist in. I've heard the better safe than sorry but I trust my mechanics word...and to put things in perspective I'm a college student who spent enough on books, lab fees and materials so coming up with the extra was something I checked into, and went on my reliable mechanics word. If you guys have a good hunch or specific instance as to why I should not have him do this repair without having the cylinder integral please do so...

  8. #67
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    Hey all, fellow WRX owner from Saskatoon, Saskatchewan, Canada here. Just wanted to let you all know that I followed this DIY to a tee, and it went really well! Except of course for having to drive to and from parts stores many times to get the right tools, and the crank shaft bolt that took some real convincing with the breaker bar to come off. Other than that, it was a relatively easy process. Of course, I took my time being it was my first time in an engine of any sort. Thanks to section9 for the awesome DIY!

    A few minor things, after I took it for a test drive, the CEL came on, and I was worried at first, because I didnt know what it meant, then I came back on here and researched it. I also brought it in to the mechanic's for a diagnostic, and yes, an 02 sensor was running lean, and 3 out of 4 pistons were misfiring. So I guess tomorrow is changing spark plugs/adjust E-Brake day.

    Wish me luck again!

  9. #68
    Registered User wordwrx's Avatar
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    thanks man the pictures really helped me!!!

  10. #69
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    Thumbs up Woohoo!

    Great tutorial! Everything went off without a hitch after about 10 hrs of working on it (we got stuck on the plugs for the electric fans - they are the pull-up tab type BTW). It's also a real pain to get the belt around the right-hand cam sprockets when you start from the crank and work your way counter-clockwise but it's not impossible (2-man job).

    If you want to save yourself some time you can get the cam locking tool from a reseller and sell it thru eBay when you're done.

    Also those right-hand sprockets WILL spin after you pull the old belt off. Don't be too worried (try to make sure only one spins ). When it happened to us we stared wide-eyed at each other for a few minutes and smoked about half a pack of cigs while going through the engine diagrams in the shop manual before deciding we didn't frag the valvetrain

    Thanks again - the walkthroughs on this forum are invaluable. It's nice to have a shop manual but it's GREAT to have a photo record of how things came apart/go back together while you're doing the job!

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    One other thing...

    One thing to note - once we got the new belt and water pump on and made sure the timing marks were in the correct places we spun the crank a good many times just to make sure we didn't jump time. Note that the marks on the belt will no longer line up as they did when you installed! You didn't do anything wrong (so long as the cams and crank still end up aligned).

  12. #71
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    Thanks for the info! About to replace my radiator (small leak at top) and timing belt.

  13. #72
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    this should be the easiest replacement ever. try doing a timing belt on a v6 ford probe. that sux.
    are these engines non iterference or interference engines?
    i drive a ford probe gt...
    <<----thats my old mx6...

  14. #73
    Registered User T.J.'s Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by aredcar View Post
    this should be the easiest replacement ever. try doing a timing belt on a v6 ford probe. that sux.
    are these engines non iterference or interference engines?
    Interference from what I understand. Good luck.
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  15. #74
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    ok thanks. i dont have a wrx yet but i am getting one next week and for that fact i will be changing the timing belt right away.
    i drive a ford probe gt...
    <<----thats my old mx6...

  16. #75
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    It is an interference engine. The level of "sucks" involved is comparable to a VW 4cyl turbo motor. The sticking points are different for each motor but overall that's where I'd estimate the suck factor falls, to give a rough idea.
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