Timing Belt and Water Pump Replacement - Page 2
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This is a discussion on Timing Belt and Water Pump Replacement within the Maintenance, service, and repair forums, part of the Tutorials & DIY category; Here are the bolt holes....

  1. #16
    Registered User section9's Avatar
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    Here are the bolt holes.
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  3. #17
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    16. Clean the mating surface on the engine. Put your new thermostat into your new water pump. Make sure you transfer the rubber seal on the side of the old water pump to the new water pump. The arrow shows where it should go, though I forgot to put it on. Your new water pump should come with a new gasket. Connect your hoses first then push a few bolts through and put the gasket onto it. Then lightly thread the bolts in. Make sure you get all the bolts in as two of them are out of sight when the water pump is mounted!!!
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    Last edited by section9; 06-03-2007 at 01:28 AM.
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  4. #18
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    17. Give the engine a good cleaning and clean off all the idlers and sprockets. Feel the sprockets to make sure there are no burs are sharp points to cut the belt.

    18. Reinstall the idler to 29 foot lbs. Use a torque wrench.
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  5. #19
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    19. Go find a buddy for the extra hands. First I lined up on the crankshaft. Place the belt tensioner onto the belt to help hold it in place. It's easier if you don't install the tensioner yet. Note that your new belt will have lines that correspond to the timing marks.
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    Last edited by section9; 06-03-2007 at 01:30 AM.
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  6. #20
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    20. Route the belt over the left side and get it timed correctly. Keep the belt tight.
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  7. #21
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    21. Line up these marks. Note that there is a timing mark on the side. This will correspond to a notch in the case - to the line on your belt - to the mark on the camshaft. You have to get this lined up along with timing marks between the two camshafts. The belt has to be tight or else you'll get the top and the middle lined up, but the side will not be lined up.
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  8. #22
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    22. The right side cams (as you're facing the car) is under tension and will spin during the course of your work. You'll need an allen socket and ratchet to get the bottom cam timed and to keep in in place as you work the belt on. Someone needs to keep the belt in place and keep everything in proper timing as you work to get the belt around the bottom right cam. Only move the cams in specified directions to avoid damaging the valves!
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  9. #23
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    23. The timing on this side is the exact same as the other side. You have to line up the side, middle, and top and keep the belt tight. It was a bit of work to get it all lined up as this side is under tension and you are now running out of belt free length. Any slack in the belt up to this point will show up by the lines on the belt not matching the timing marks on the side and the top. They all have to line up! It actually may be better to start on this side as you'll have the entire belt free.
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  10. #24
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    24. Install the belt tensioner. Torque to 29 foot lbs.

    25. Recheck ALL your timing marks. Anything amiss should be fixed. I'm not a Subaru tech, but with motorcycles, being off a tooth will cause it to run poorly and being off a few will definitely cause piston to valve contact. This is catastrophic failure!

    Once you're satisfied that the timing is correct, remove the allen key that's been holding the belt tensioner pin in place.
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  11. #25
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    26. Reinstall the timing belt guides with a clearance of 0.5-1.5mm.
    27. Reinstall the crankshaft pulley and rotate the crankshaft several revolutions to make sure your timing is correct and there are no solid stops. Don't force it if there is as your valves are hitting each other or the piston.
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    Last edited by section9; 06-03-2007 at 01:10 AM.
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  12. #26
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    28. Remove the crankshaft pulley.
    29. Install the three timing belt covers.
    30. Install the crankshaft pulley and torque it to 94 ft lbs. Don't forget that the pulley is keyed and will only fit on one way.
    31. Install the a/c belt tensioner and a/c belt. Adjust the belt to 7.5 - 8.5mm of deflection.
    32. Install the alternator belt and adjust it to 7 - 9mm of deflection.
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    Last edited by section9; 06-03-2007 at 01:34 AM.
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  13. #27
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    33. Install the radiator.
    34. Install the fans.
    35. Install the coolant reservoir.
    36. Fill with coolant at the cap near the turbo. It helps to have the car on an incline and fill slowly. You'll get lots of bubbles. It took me quite a while to do this. It takes up to 2 gallons and I put in about 1.8 gallons.
    37. Reinstall the air intake.
    38. Now if you're sure you got it right, start the car and let it warm up. Immediately kill it if there is any knocking or clanging. Add coolant mix as needed and keep an eye on the temperature.

    Sorry about the poor pics, but I've got an older camera and was doing this solo. Good luck and I take no responsibility for your actions. This is for information only. Feel free to add comments or corrections.
    Last edited by section9; 06-03-2007 at 01:36 AM.
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  14. #28
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    I've been waiting for you to finish, very nice write-up! Tools used for the project would also be useful. Only one thing I would definately do differently.

    Step #1: Go to the store and pick-up beer.
    "A man that buys a Corvette has a mid-life crisis, but a man that buys a Lambourghini has NO crisis." -Rev Run

  15. #29
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    Thanks man. I got the tools list up on the first post now.
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  16. #30
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    Great writeup. Doesn't seem too intimidating, but still something I'm not really looking forward to.
    Forgive my noobness, but how do you measure the V belt deflection? Apparently with a belt gauge, but can you do it otherwise?

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