Bride (replica) seat Intall
Page 1 of 2 12 LastLast
Results 1 to 15 of 16

This is a discussion on Bride (replica) seat Intall within the Interior Mods forums, part of the Tech & Modifying & General Repairs category; I got my Bride seats a little earlier than the group buy on here because I ordered them from a ...

  1. #1
    Registered User Family Guy's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2003
    Location
    Memphis TN
    Posts
    982

    Bride (replica) seat Intall

    I got my Bride seats a little earlier than the group buy on here because I ordered them from a different source so some details may be a bit different.

    For a complete install you will need:

    2 seats (Duh)
    2 slider assemblies (which consist of 4 slider mechanisms, 2 handles, 16 bolts, 16 lock washers, and 8 nuts, 8 spacers).

    2 model specific seat brackets, with 8 cone shapped spacers ( I got the 98-01 Impreza brackets which worked just fine)

    8 more 10mm nuts that were not supplied with the seats

    2 one inch spacers can be nuts stack of washers whatever just as long as you can put the bolt through it

    2 longer 14mm bolts than stock to use the above mentioned spacers

    2 11mm threaded nuts for the factory seatbelts

    2 11mm lock washers for above seatbelt nuts

    2 3.3 ohm resistors to make sure airbag light does not come on.

    1. Lay the seats on their back and unlock the bottoms (like you would to gain rear seat entry into a 2 door car). Then using some serious hand strength push the unlock mechanism down to move the sliders as far down as possible using lock washers install the bolts through the top of the slider one side at a time making sure to use the spacers supplied with the seats between the seats and the sliders. When done with one side top install the handle release onto the two tabs making sure the handle is in the correct position. Install the other side the same way making sure the handle is securely onto the tabs. Then slide the sliders all the way up and install the bottom bolts the same as the tops.

    2. The holes in my seat brackets did not line up with the holes on the sliders. Very carefully measure the holes on the sliders and mark on the brackets making very sure they are straight and correct. Using a punch to center the drill bit, drill the right sized holes into the seat brackets. Mine were about one inch (center to center) outside the original holes.

    3. Now you should be able to line up the brackets/sliders. Move the sliders so you can install the brackets onto the sliders and put the cone spacers in between the sliders and brackets. If the spacers are not used the bolts will be too long and not allow the seat to move.

    4. Remove the stock headrests, and seat bolt covers. Using a 14mm socket unscrew the 4 per seat seat bolts and unplug the seatbelt (driver's side only) plug and the airbag connector (one per seat) to unplug slide the release back and pull apart. Center the the seats so the sliders are in the middle. And carefully remove the seats being carefull not to scratch anything.

    5. unbolt the stock seatbelt buckles and install onto the flanges on the seatbrackets using the 11mm thread nut and lock washers. Route the driver's seatbelt wire to the center of the seat.

    6. This is the only part I cannot guarntee will work! Install the 3.3 ohm resistors into the stock airbag plugs and tape so they do not fall out. Be carefull not to get the 3.3k ohm resistors like I did they will not work!

    7. Install the seats into the car. the inside rear may need to be adjusted (beat with hammer, twisted with pliers) to fit but with a little work it will. The outside rear will need to be shimmed by about one inch and will require a longer bolt than stock.

    *note* for the additional nuts/bolts I needed Home Depot did not have them. I work at an Acura dealership and found all I needed in our shop.

    8. Enjoy!!!
    Now: 04 WRB STi (stock)

  2. Remove Advertisements
    ClubWRX.net
    Advertisements
     

  3. #2
    Registered User ebr0t's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2002
    Location
    U of Central Florida (Orlando)
    Posts
    15,307
    :stuck:
    Quote Originally Posted by DTR rex

    Peter North > *

  4. #3
    Registered User TheBoostCreep's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2004
    Location
    Merritt Island
    Posts
    1,173
    *sits back and waits for pics of those beauties*
    I'm TheBoostCreep, and I approved this message.

  5. #4
    Registered User
    Join Date
    Mar 2002
    Location
    Tokyo, Japan
    Posts
    13,128
    Quote Originally Posted by TheBoostCreep
    *sits back and waits for pics of those beauties*
    "I don't think he knows how to give up. His mind and machine are racing as one." -Takahashi Ryosuke

  6. #5
    Official ClubWRX arms dealer SOUTHPAW's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2003
    Location
    CT
    Posts
    3,814
    Excuse me sir, that's a great story and all but......


























    WHERE ARE THE FU<K!NG PICS ?!?!



    ...
    *1969 Camaro - Kickin' It Old School
    PICS & MODS

    *2005 Corvette C6 - A few APS bolt-ons
    PICS & MODS <- Built by XX Tuning
    *2003 Subaru WRX - 332 AWHP - SOLD
    PICS & MODS <- Built by XX Tuning

  7. #6
    Registered User Family Guy's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2003
    Location
    Memphis TN
    Posts
    982
    I sold my digital camera a while back for car parts. I'll see if I can get some picures up using a friends camera.
    Now: 04 WRB STi (stock)

  8. #7
    Registered User Wrinkleboi's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2002
    Location
    Langhorne, PA
    Posts
    3,331
    Ok i'm gonna try to post my complete install directions, and keep in mind I may have done some things differently than family guy. There is no right way with these, just get it how you like it and its a success. Keep in mind that I bought these seats from someone who was partially through the install already so I'm not sure what hardware the seats were shipped with. The only thing I used that came with the seats were the black hex head bolts that secure the slider to the seat, all of the rest I found at Home Depot.

    Parts Needed:
    -(8) black hex head bolts 1" long, with lock washers (dont know exact size, i think these come with the sliders/seats?)
    -(8) black pyramid-shaped washers (came with the brackets)
    -(4) 12" or 13" long 1"x1" square aluminum pipe (steel would be better but I couldnt find any)
    -(8) 1/4"x1.5" Grade 8 bolts, lock washers, nuts
    -(~150) 1/4" washers
    (2) 3/8" x 3/4" Grade 8 bolts
    (2) 3/8" Grade 8 nuts
    (2) 3/8" lock washers
    -(2) 10mm 1.25 pitch 50mm Grade 8 bolts <---(10,, 1.25 pitch is important, could be a little shorter probably though)
    -(~20) 7/16" washers


    Tools Needed:
    -1/4" drive Drill
    -large, strong, sharp drill bit (roughly same size as existing holes in brackets)
    -3/8" drill bit
    -assorted wrenches and sockets
    -hammer



    Step 1: Redrill Holes in Brackets
    Parts:
    1/4" drive Drill with large, strong, sharp drill bit (about the same size as the existing holes in the bracket)
    Install: These brackets took a while to measure, and a while to drill. It was really difficult to get them drilled perfectly, but the good news is that if you drill holes that are about the same size as the ones that already existed in the bracket, then you'll have a good amount of room for error in your measurements/drilling and things will still fit together like they should. This was the case for me, and after realizing we were 1/8" off on one corner, it was a lifesaver that the thing still bolted together.
    So, measure the distance between the holes on the underside of the seats, from side to side to know how far apart the sliders will sit. My measurements indicated that I would be drilling holes just barely on the peice of the bracket running lengthwise with the car. Once you have your width, measure the distance between the mounting hole on the slider to know how much distance you need front to back. Now use these measurements to carefully mark off and drill new holes in your brackets. Again, I'd suggest drilling nice large holes to give you a little breathing room if your measurements werent exact. Also note that it took a while to drill through these brackets, the metal is very hard. So be patient, and you'll get through eventually. I actually drilled a smaller hole to start and then followed it with the big bit, which seemed to work out pretty well.

    Step 2: Attach Sliders to Seat
    Parts:
    -(8) black hex head bolts 1" long, with lock washers (dont know exact size, did these come with the sliders/seats?)
    -(8) black pyramid-shaped washers (came with the brackets)
    Install: Lay the seat on its back (on cardboard or something clean/smooth) and pull up the quick release bar i order to get the bottom of the seat exposed to work on.
    Put a long screwdriver in between the two nubs sticking out on the slider to unlock the slider, and slide the inside peice of the slider all the way to the back to expose the front holes you'll be using to attach it to the seat (watch your fingers!! i got a nice cut at this part of the install). Put one pyramid-shaped washer for each bolt used in between the seat and the slider, pointed up when the seat is upright. After screwing in front bolts, slide the inside peice of the slider all the way to the front to expose the rear holes that you'll be using to attach the slider to the rear of the seat. Screw in the rear bolts, and you're done with this step.

    Step 3 (Optional): Fabricate 1" Spacers
    Parts:
    -(4) 12" or 13" long 1"x1" square aluminum pipe
    -Drill with 3/8" bit
    Insall: Cut four 13" long peices of tube, and measure out holes to line up with the bracket>slider mounting holes, because this will be going in between them. I thought the aluminum that we used was strong enough, but in order for it not to collapse when the bolts are tightened I found that I needed to put washers inside of the tube to support it. I also found that it was easier to get those washers in there if i cut off the unnecessary 1/2" or so on each end of the tube so I could get to the hole/bolt easier with my fingers. So thats why the spacers are about 12" long by the time I was done with them. Thats about it, one hole in each end of each spacer...

    Step 4: Attach Brackets to Sliders
    Parts:
    -(8) 1/4"x1.5" Grade 8 bolts, lock washers, nuts
    -(~150) 1/4" washers
    Install: Slide bolt through underside of bracket, and start to slide it through the 1" aluminum tube. Start stacking washers on the bolt inside of the tube until its completely stuffed with washers. This took a while and I'm sure there are other more sensible ways to do it, but this is what I did to make sure it was very sturdy. Once you have a lot of washers stuffed in there, push the bolt through to the other side of the slider. You may need to push the slider forward or back in order to expose the hole you need to be working with. Put on a lock washer and a nut, and tighten it to the best of your abilities using an open ended wrench and a ratchet. Repeat this for all four corners of each seat.

    Step 5: Old Seats Out
    Parts:
    -14mm socket/ratchet
    Install: Slide the stock seat back and unscrew the two front bolts holding the seat in. Slide the seat forward and unscrew the two rear bolts holding the seat in. Before removing the seat, tip it back and detach the airbag plug by pulling the green slider thing all the way back. On the drivers side you'll find the airbag plug as well as the 'fasten seatbelt' plug which you'll also need to unplug. It was tough, but i got it off of the frame just by wiggling and pulling. Once these are disconnected, the seat is ready to be pulled out of the car.

    Step 6: Seatbelt Buckle Swap
    Parts:
    (2) 3/8" x 3/4" Grade 8 bolts
    (2) 3/8" Grade 8 nuts
    (2) 3/8" lock washers
    -14mm socket/ratchet (i think)
    Install: You need to take the seatbelt buckle off of the stock seat and attach it to the new seat's bracket. Because I heard of clearance issues, I also got a whole new bolt that was a little shorter to hold the seatbelt on. I also bent the seatbelt tab on the bracket out just a little bit. This is pretty straightforward, just take it off the stock seat and use the new bolt to put it onto the aftermarket seat.


    Step 7: New Seats In
    Parts:
    -(2) 10mm 1.25 pitch 50mm Grade 8 bolts
    -(~20) 7/16" washers
    -14mm socket/ratchet
    -17mm socket/ratchet
    -hammer
    Install: Put front bolts back on but dont tighten them all the way. Use a hammer to coax the rear inside bracket closer to the mounting point, and then play with the stock bolt to get it to catch and go back in. For the rear outside bolt, you'll find that the bracket sits up much too high now. You'll need to use the longer bolt listed above, with about 8 or so washers in between the bracket and the floor. Once all of these bolts are in place tighten them down. Make sure to connect the 'fasten seatbelt' plug under the driver's seat. Also, install the airbag resistors 3.3 ohm i think? if you dont want your airbag light to go on.


    I think thats it. I'll try to take photos soon but its much too late tonight. Also if i think of anything else i'll add it later. Hope this helps. This was an easy install, but what was tough was all of the trial and error and the trips back to Home Depot, so I think this detailed install tutorial should save you a lot of time . Good Luck!!

    o-|-<) bryan












    Last edited by Wrinkleboi; 11-05-2004 at 11:54 PM.

    -2003 Blue WRX, complete 2007 STi Engine/Drivetrain transplant - Pic 1 | Pic 2 | Pic 3 | Pic 4 (new!)
    -1994 Black Supra TT 6MT - Pic | Build/Restoration Thread: 67mm, Fuel, Painted Engine Bay, Fuse Box Relocation, Wire Tuck, etc.

    www.TriStateTuners.com

  9. #8
    Registered User 20wrx02's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2002
    Location
    South East Mass
    Posts
    664
    Is it me or do the seats dont look right -- i hope its the camera but the material looks like its made out of Barney the purple dinosaur

  10. #9
    Registered User Wrinkleboi's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2002
    Location
    Langhorne, PA
    Posts
    3,331
    they are definitely a true black, but for some reason they dont look quite right in the photos.
    bryan

    -2003 Blue WRX, complete 2007 STi Engine/Drivetrain transplant - Pic 1 | Pic 2 | Pic 3 | Pic 4 (new!)
    -1994 Black Supra TT 6MT - Pic | Build/Restoration Thread: 67mm, Fuel, Painted Engine Bay, Fuse Box Relocation, Wire Tuck, etc.

    www.TriStateTuners.com

  11. #10
    Registered User WRXcelration's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2004
    Location
    Allentown PA
    Posts
    2,797
    theyre probably suede
    05 STI

    Speed Comes At A Price...How Fast Can You Afford To Go?

  12. #11
    Registered User
    Join Date
    Aug 2005
    Posts
    1
    Do yourself a favor and tint your windows if they arent already. Mine faded after about 3 months...

  13. #12
    Registered User
    Join Date
    Oct 2005
    Location
    Franconia, NH
    Posts
    30

    OEM Seat Rails

    Hi,
    You guys that replaced your seats...when you had the OEM seats out, did it look like you could rebolt and move the original seat rails back farther a inche or two?

    I'm 6ft 2, with a hip problem and I need more leg room than is possible with the OEM seats!

    Please respond to : barryj@webtv.net

  14. #13
    Registered User
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Posts
    32
    holy old thread batman!

  15. #14
    Registered User Impreza2.0's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2008
    Location
    Maine
    Posts
    830

    erm... replica?

    I might be convinced to take pics of the installation, but it this easy:

    Unbolt all four bolts of one seat, tilt it back toward the back of the car, and push in the green lever on the airbag connector, push in the clip, let go of the green bit, and it will click, and let you slide the male and female pieces apart easily. Remove the seat from the car carefully so that you don't have a trip to the paint shop... Get out one of your resistors. Bend the terminals on your resistor a bit more than 90 degrees, until they are ready to slide one into both holes in the airbag plug. Polarity is not important. Just make sure it is as far in as it can go, the resistor's body should be up against the plastic of the plug at this point. Wrap it securely with electrical tape.

    Vacuum that nasty mess!

    Do the other side the same way...

    Vacuum some more... wow, did you know someone ate french fries in your car while you were at work??!!

    Now that you have a nice clean floor, and the bolt-holes are clean (hint), get the seats/brackets/rails (the assembly you built excitedly on your living room floor), and drop them into the car CAREFULLY, again scratching the car is easy, our doors are somewhat small, go slowly. You may have some seat belt issues if you are staying with factory belts. Your bracket will have a tab for the original female belt clip, which can be used with the OEM bolt and nut. This is sort of an aside for those using 4 point harnesses, it is a good idea to have both belts, there are conservative passengers who are almost insulted by harnesses.

    I have no idea why.

    This whole installation should not take longer than 3 hours. I counted 2hrs 25 minutes vacuuming and dusting, wiping down plastic, and brushing out bolt holes. The seats took 32 minutes total, including torquing the 'through-the-floor' mounting bolts. I had 3 minutes to adjust my seatbelt, quite a luxury.

    If this takes longer than my time estimate, you have seat brackets that do not fit your car correctly, and this should not be messed with. Get ahold of your vendor, and make them replace them. Mine were such a perfect fit, I had .5" adjustment in any direction before tightening, a nice margin for those who prefer "centered" driving (position directly behind the steering wheel/typical passenger car application) to "offset" (sitting to the left of the wheel to give access to electronic engine controls you may use) driving. This is not an option on the other brackets I researched.

    Wedge, Recaro, Sparco, Buddy Club, Bride, Momo... all of these are good. I chose NZKW based on a few features I did not see in the others, and I am glad I did. The primary feature is this adjustability. Also, the grade of steel and it's thickness is superior to any of the above listed manufacturers.
    Last edited by Impreza2.0; 04-19-2009 at 07:56 AM. Reason: I'd rather help...

  16. #15
    Registered User Impreza2.0's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2008
    Location
    Maine
    Posts
    830

    Still dead...? this is a valid topic...!

    Parts List:

    NZKW seat brackets - $85 each, passenger and driver
    3.3Ohm 1w Flameproof resistors - $.11 each at PartsExpress
    A roll of electrical tape - $1-3 at your LHS

    A Vaccuum Cleaner - Hopefully you have one...
    About 3 hours of uninterrupted, stress-free time you can call your own
    A Subaru Impreza, any year or model will do
    A Pair of Seats - again, something you ought to have if this project interests you, they can cost $1 at the junk yard, or $150-$2000 at a tuner shop, but either way, they are required for this mod.
    Last edited by Impreza2.0; 04-19-2009 at 07:40 AM. Reason: I nearly wrecked a perfectly good thread

Page 1 of 2 12 LastLast

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •