I found these on the MR2 board and I hope you will find them very useful. I don't know if enough people install aftermarket alarms to where this would become a sticky. I've seen alarms disabled in a few minutes with a screwdriver and a tug. It's for an MR2, but I'm sure you guys can figure out the rest.
They're not in order though.
Theft Prevention tips by David Chau
originally posted by davidchau
Winter is here and its getting dark around 5pm here in Philadelphia, so car thieves come out earlier.
Here are some of the methods I use when installing a alarm on custom cars or my own car. I installed car alarms for 3 years during High School, have a Master MECP from Mobile Dynamics and I live in Center City Philadelphia and have seen many theft recovers, many of my customers already had alarms (installed at a local "alarm shop" and not by me) and their car was still stolen.
I thought of many ways of protecting a car under attack. Since growing up in the city, many of my friends where car thieves themselves and even they had me install their alarms. Having friends as car thieves back in high school taught me how car thieves really think and how to protect and slow them down. Any place can install your alarm, its easy to connect wires and make them chirp and blink, but I don't think its really going to protect your car under a full blown attack. In the years I did install alarms only 4 cars out of about 120 alarms I installed where stolen. Many of the cars install where still broken into, But the thieves gave up and ran away. The 4 cars that where stolen was stolen by a tow truck, person left keys in the car, forgot to turn on alarm, and one car jacking.
I am not saying your car will not be stolen but with these tips if done right will give a very good thief a VERY hard time.
1 tip: Disconnect the hood lever and hide it. When you need to open your hood just pull on the cable with your hands. Prevents a Battery attack. Wrap the cable with black tape to make it just look like another 10 gauge wire under your dash.
2 tip: Disconnect the driver side lock linkage. Your going to have
keyless entry anyways and if your battery dies or alarms acts up, just use the key on the passenger side. Prevents Slim-Jim's on driver door, and the common screwdriver under the door handle attack. Also Cuts %50 off break-ins because you only have 2 doors. Most break-ins happen on driver side door.
3 tip: When installing a Alarm NEVER use the valet switch, just wrap the valet switch around the brain.. if they found the brain they don't need the valet switch anyways. I install my alarms in Active re-arm mode, not a in passive which I hate because its such a pain in the ass when your working on your car or pumping gas.
Active re-arming means the alarm doesn't turn on itself but WILL turn back on if you dis-arm your car but DON'T open a door in 30 secs. Its for the times you accidentally hit your alarm button in your house.
4: tip: For the MR2 when installing a alarm I think the best place to put the "Brain" in a MR2 mkII turbo is above the Front air vents behind the radio, then wrap the wires in loom and run them down and thru the dash... when a car thief looks under the steering wheel to rip wires out he won't see anything but the big air vent under your kness
5: For the MR2 the hard part was placement of the siren, I run the wire on the back side of the fender after removing the weather guard in the fenderwell and then placed the siren behind the front bumper (where "The Beast" has the brake ducts) Sounds like a pain in the ass to due, but Most car thives just cut the siren wire and that shuts it up. Most shops just puts the siren in plain view under the hood or engine lid. "Where is your siren??" They just open the door, pull the hood and rip the siren out, 10 secs tops.
6: Dis-connect the truck lock linkage, I have power truck release so I just use that. Prevents truck break-ins. I have 94+ lights so I shaved both my revs lights and lock for a smoove look and saved over $120 on the lock and rev lights. I just use $20 side marker lights under my veilside bumper for rev lights.
7: A lot of times thives use this method of break-ins called Pop-in the glass out, done on the driver side mostly. Its when they stick a screw driver on top of your glass and just pry your glass out far enough to stick their hand or slim-jim in your car and hit the power lock button or lock lever over. The Glass on your car is very strong and will not break, its very easy to do on a T-Top and MR2's because we don't have a frame on top of the glass on the door. To Prevent this disconnect the lock lever on the driver side handle and wire a Relay with the starter output to shut off the power door lock switch when the alarm is armed. Test the wire that is the neg pulse given out at the switch, this is a pain in the ass to due, but this break in method is VERY common. Anyone who has locked themselves out and used a hanger to open the door knows how much the glass can flex out of the door, and most people are scared of pulling on the glass as much because its their car... car thives don't care if the glass breaks.
8: Don't EVER use those stupid Blue LED Scanners... I think the red ones are fine, but for some reason the color blue atracts thives.
"Get a normally open relay placed on your starter kill. This means that if the brain or power to the alarm is cut the starter will not engage. 80% of alarms (all viper alarms) have a normally closed relay. Your installer will not do it by instinct ..tell him! You can pull the fuse and the car is helpless and can be started. No Joke! "
I have two relays a open loop and a closed loop on my car running in a daisy chain. but one of the relays is connected to the power lead off the rear de-fog switch-LED, so to start my car you need to press the rear-defog.
One Tip I forgot was to use Iginition kills and wire it to a well hidden switch behind your seat or something. I wouldn't recommend throw the kill on a relay since it is your ignition system.
Pager $200-$400?? NO NO you can get one for $80 bucks and install it yourself. Crimestopper has one for 80-90 bucks.
Don't forget the horn honk!!
Oh yea!! One more.... I know my Turbo MR2 has a Key hole light in the driver side door, which turns on when you pull on the handle, even when the door is locked. Think its a Positive feed, so use it with your alarm as a trigger. Theft will pull the handle just to see if the door is locked most of the time, that will cause the alarm to go off before the door is even open.
One more thing.
A thief will not be afraid of a Club by itself, or a alarm by itself, BUT if you have both thats two things they think about to attack, sort of a ONE TRACK MIND.
Originally posted by HHHHASGAME
A biggie that I do when installing alarms is to run an extra wire from the siren output on the alarm to the relay for the horn under the hood. If soneone does cut my siren the horn will definately get attention. Also for wires that can be seen use 4 con wire. if wired right the evtra 2pair can be wired together at a device ( pin switch, siren, whatever) to make a loop. by wiring all your loop in series and putting them on a zone you add a tamper loop. If someone was to cut the siren wire they's have to cut all the wires and when the loop gets cut, the alarm acts as if a door was opened.
Another trick is to disconnect the throttle cable from the throttle body. This just prevents theft of car.
I don't recommend taking off the linkages. these are not the best things in the world and the one you leave on may snap when you need it. Leaving you SOL...and u know what that means.
Put the brain way up under the dash. Start taking the dash apart until you see a good space to put it. This prevents people from easily finding it.
Wire up a piezo mini siren in your car. Wire one independently of the other sirens so if the outside one gets pulled. There is a second one blasting inside. No one wants to listen to 140db while taking out a stereo.
posted by BlueToms2
Get a normally open relay placed on your starter kill. This means that if the brain or power to the alarm is cut the starter will not engage. 80% of alarms (all viper alarms) have a normally closed relay. Your installer will not do it by instinct! You can pull the fuse and the car is helpless and can be started. No Joke!
Make your alarm as loud as possible. Tie it to your car horn, add a second siren, or a set of air horns. You can also add battery backed sires for about $70. Also on that same note make sure your alarm is not set to sensitive. False alarms will be the death of ya.
Make sure your led is in an obvious place central to the car but not so high that it grabs attention.
Pager alarms can be added for about $200-400 and will let you know if it is tripped (cheap insurance). Unless you want to get in serious trouble I would just act as a witness or if you have time call the cops. I hold two first degree black belts and I still would think twice before approaching a car thief. No car is worth losing your life over! Too many brainless young jerks carry guns. If you have a gun do you really want to go to jail over shooting a worthless thief?
Disconnect or hide all valet switches.
You can buy electronic hood locks for your hood and engine bay for about $50. This keeps the hood locked even if they pull the hood release.
Most professional car thiefs take only 40 seconds to just under 2 minutes to take anything (including your car)
Origional thread here: