problems with boost gage?
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This is a discussion on problems with boost gage? within the Interior Mods forums, part of the Tech & Modifying & General Repairs category; I hope this is the right forum to ask. I've done a search on boost gage here, and I found ...

  1. #1
    Registered User satrya's Avatar
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    Question problems with boost gage?

    I hope this is the right forum to ask. I've done a search on boost gage here, and I found many posts about how to install them. I also used the instructions for the OEM single boost gage. I have an autometer boost gage, and all I need to do now is to cut the hose off the (stock) BOV and insert the t-fitting. Hesitant to do that, I want to find out whether there are any precautions I need to know before cutting the hose (the thought of the car immobilized due to some error in my part doesn't seem that appealing to me). So, my question is:

    For those of you who cut the hose off the BOV to get the boost pressure measurement, are there any potential problems or things to be cautious of? I know a sub 20psi is rather low, so barb fittings, vacuum rubber hose, zip ties, and teflon tape should seal the pressure real well, but is there anything that needs special attention other than pressure-leak -wise?

    Any input would be appreciated, especially if you've experienced some problems and figured out what not to do.

    Thanks in advance

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    Registered User pace's Avatar
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    Here's a picture of my setup. You will notice I'm tapped twice - once for the boost gauge and once for the EBC.

    My only comments would be to make sure you cut such that there is enough hose on the BOV to attach the T-fitting. Also, the T-fittings supplied are often not a tight fit and thus require use of hose clamps.

    -Pace
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails p7090008.jpg  

  4. #3
    Registered User satrya's Avatar
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    Originally posted by pace
    Here's a picture of my setup. You will notice I'm tapped twice - once for the boost gauge and once for the EBC.

    My only comments would be to make sure you cut such that there is enough hose on the BOV to attach the T-fitting. Also, the T-fittings supplied are often not a tight fit and thus require use of hose clamps.

    -Pace
    Thanks for the quick reply, and the picture.
    Wow, I wasn't able to find such a small hose clamp at my local Ace hardware.
    One question to your setup though. I notice the first t-fitting you have near the BOV appears to be non-metal (it looks like an opaque white plastic). Have you had any problems with heat, being so close to the header like that?
    The reason why I ask is although I have a brass fitting, I planned to use the plastic zip ties instead of those metal hose clamps. If your t-fitting is indeed plastic, then my zip ties may survive there just fine.

    Anyone else? Any thoughts on putting plastic near the header?

  5. #4
    Registered User gifty74's Avatar
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    plastic is fine there. i am using a brass "T" with plastic ties to secure the connections. all is working fine, over 3000 miles later.

    one tip, that i would've done if i had thought of it, just keep the existing BOV line, don't cut it. get a 7/32" tube (i believe this is the closest tube size) and cut a small piece. use that to attach to the "T" and BOV nipple. that way you don't have to cut the BOV line at all. i did this on my boost gauge tap on the front of the manifold on that brass elbow that is sticking out, and just added the enough tubing to make the connection. works great, and can be returned to full stock if desired.

  6. #5
    Registered User satrya's Avatar
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    Originally posted by gifty74
    plastic is fine there. i am using a brass "T" with plastic ties to secure the connections. all is working fine, over 3000 miles later.

    one tip, that i would've done if i had thought of it, just keep the existing BOV line, don't cut it. get a 7/32" tube (i believe this is the closest tube size) and cut a small piece.
    Thanks for the useful tips!!!
    I really appreciate that. Good to know that the zip ties can take the heat near the headers. Getting a 7/32 tube is a good idea too. Sure glad I asked this forum

  7. #6
    Registered wrxinthehouse's Avatar
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    I was knife shy too. I went to cut and then had to go back to the computer just to make sure.

  8. #7
    MisterX's Avatar
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    Did anyone notice the stock BOV in the photo? I'll bet it works fine.

    Russ

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    byebye
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    you are gonna get pwned...lol

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    Registered User Lithoss's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by gifty74 View Post
    one tip, that i would've done if i had thought of it, just keep the existing BOV line, don't cut it. get a 7/32" tube (i believe this is the closest tube size) and cut a small piece. use that to attach to the "T" and BOV nipple. that way you don't have to cut the BOV line at all. i did this on my boost gauge tap on the front of the manifold on that brass elbow that is sticking out, and just added the enough tubing to make the connection. works great, and can be returned to full stock if desired.
    very good advice. when i installed a gauge on my dad's wrx i did this. i turned out really well and i wish i did it on mine instead of cutting

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    Registered User tayhadar1's Avatar
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    bump for ban of the above
    2004 WRX Sti Cobb Stage 2
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