Focal 165V2 polyglass speakers in STI help.
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This is a discussion on Focal 165V2 polyglass speakers in STI help. within the Interior Mods forums, part of the Tech & Modifying & General Repairs category; I have the speaker adapters from Innovative Automotive . They seem really nice. I am trying to put in some ...

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    SRR
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    Focal 165V2 polyglass speakers in STI help.

    I have the speaker adapters from
    Innovative Automotive. They seem really nice.

    I am trying to put in some Focal 165V2 polyglass speakers. I finally got the window to not hit the back of the speaker. This required about a 1/2" of junk behind the bottom two screws holding the speaker spacer ring and a small 1/32" rubber washer behind the top screw. Is this too much?? The instructions are not clear. It just says equal to 5/16" nut and a spacer. I dont have a 5/16" nut with the kit and they seem to vary in depth depending where I get one from the hardware store. Trying to determine if I need to wack off that gold screw that protrudes through the glass.

    Also do I need to put two washers under the gold nut toward the front of the door?

    Is there a good way to know if the speaker is going to hit without messing it up by playing it and listening?

    The focals come with unlabeled speaker prongs and tweeter wires. There is one normal sized prong and a skinny one. Whats the polarity? Also with the tweeter, which one is + and -? One wire has a red stripe but I hate to assume its positive.

    Thanks
    Scott

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    SRR
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    OK I think I have it figured out now. Found the nut and washer the instructions refered to. They add up to about 3/8" to be placed between the bottom of the spacer and inner steel door pannel. I used my own washers as the ones provided do not clear the black square plug nut that comes with the kit. The plastic of that nut plug protrudes though the metal enough that the provided washers will not go around and wobble on its protruding side. Found some larger ones at the hardware store and a rubber washer also. I just kept the depth the same as if I was using the kit hardware.

    I also wacked off the gold screw protruding through the glass just above the plastic nut. It clears now.

    The focal speakers also come with a speaker grill and ring that it snaps into. I will be installing the ring minus the grill for some depth clearance in front of the speaker. Just in case.

    The place I purchased the focals from confirmed the large tab is positive and the wire with red stripe is positive.

    Thanks all.

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    Registered User Pirana's Avatar
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    Are you satified with the innovative kits. I plan on putting some Diamond Audio speakers, and looking into their rings. But apparently you had to do a lot of modification to fit your speakers even with their rings.

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    SRR
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    Overall I am happy with the kit.

    The main thing the kit gives you is special hardware that may be hard to come by elsewhere. This allows a speaker install without any drilling of your door. The provided screws and square plug nuts make a big differece. One note is that if you put the square plugs through from the backside (as in to prevent pullout) then the proturstion on the spacer side can make things difficult. I had to drill out the holes on the bottom side as to allow the square plugs to fit inside the spacer a tad. Dont drill to much or your screw will not have enough material to keep it from pulling through.

    If you get a low profile enough speaker where you dont have to shim out the bottom of the spacer the kit really shines. As I wanted some of the best sound quality speakers I could fit, I went with a rather deep profile speaker. Now the spacer is tri-poded onto the door frame. It is thick enough that it is in no risk of breaking. (thick kit) However you now should silicon under the spacer where air gaps exist. If you were to do it yourself you could possibly make a spacer that did not reqire shimming. It would end up 3/8" thicker at the bottom compared to the top however. Thats quite a bit of sanding. It might end up a bit cleaner if you DIY. I however would expect it to take quite a bit of time measuring and making timplates cutting glueing enough MDF for thinkness. It would require quite a bit of tools you might not have either. (Jig saw, belt sander, drill press) It may end up less expensive but not worth it IMO. The spacers are also nicly shapped, have rounded edges, painted, and are predrilled for the door install part.

    I also got good customer support. They replied to my email about some questions I had with their instructions. The instructions do leave a bit to be desired. Few pictures and somewhat hard to interprit instructions. I think they are working on writing some better ones.

    I would rate the kit a 8 out of 10 for large depth speakers. Too much shimming, had to drill pockets for sqare nut plugs, and poor instructions.

    I would rate the kit a 9 out of 10 for speakers that dont require the spacers to be shimmed. Instruction and nut plug reasons.

    One Item the kit lacked was a way to mount the crossover should you have one. I am making a bracket that fits under the two gold nuts just rear of the arm rest brackets built onto the door metal. I have seen others just double side foam tape it to the area behind the window on the inside of the outer sheet metal. And others with different techniques adding it where I have. (you will see a big enough pocket of space under the door skin there).

    Let me know if you have any more questions.
    Hope this helps.
    Scott
    Last edited by SRR; 02-18-2004 at 01:05 PM.

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    SRR
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    I have recieved a few PMs about my 165V focal speaker install, so I thought I would post some answers to the questions for all to see.

    With the adapter ring kit from iaperformance, I did not like the window guide channel shimming out with washers step and did not do it. I instead used a drimmel to cut off the gold screw that protrudes through the window. You will see it with the window down. I also did the maximum spacing I could somewhat following the adapter ring instructions. Though I used different washers than those that came with the kit. I would do a depth check before doing anything permanet. See if it rocks holding the speakers in place and looking down through the window opening at the top of the door and pay attention to the screw that goes through the glass. Also roll it up and down while looking down through it for screw clearance. I also cut all the protruding plastic off the back side of the inner door pannel as the instructions indicate. The focals also come with some speaker grills / brackets. I removed the grills but did use the brackets to insure enough space in front of the speakers themselfs. Acts as a protruding ring around the speaker holding off the inner door panel away should it be too close.

    For the crossovers, I made a bracket at the two gold nuts to the (left driver side)(right passenger side) of the door handle bracket. That puts it in the void under the arm rest to the back of the door. I made a cardboard box with an cereal box that was the size of the crossover and place it on the bracket I made to check for clearence. The bolts with the nuts on them did move when I loosened them up but the paint is scuffed from the factory installed nut. This makes it easy to figure out where it needs to go back together correctly. I used some square alum toobing with both ends drimmeld down to one side of the tubing for about 3/4 of a inch at both ends.. I then drilled the ends for the gold bolts to pass through allowing the nuts to hold the sqare tubing in place. This acts as a ancor point and as a standoff for the crossover so it will not be against the door metal strenthing rolls above and bellow these bolts. I then used a chunk of alum u channel (not as deep as the sqaure toobing) to make a cross. The square toobing was notched with a drimmel for both the back and two sides of the u channel to rest into. I then used a standoff nut and two short counter sunk screws from both sides to hold it together. The placement of the u channel was to provide side to side stability for the crossover and to allow the two screw locations of the crossover to cut though the alum u channel. I drilled the u channel at either end to just under the size of the screws that came with the focals. I then self tapped the screws into the holes. Think of it as a perfict cross on its side that is flat on the front but shallow under the arms backsides and thinned to 1/16" for 3/4" in from the top and bottom of the cross for bolt protrusion. I also put some masking tape on the back to prevent any scratching of the inner door just for rust prevention reasons.

    I have seen others on the forum put them elsewhere. A search for crossover should get you in touch with those.

    My focals did come with a bad crossover. Was a pain going back and forth with the dealer I purchased them though. But its at least working now. Sounds pritty good. They still need to be broken in yet though. I hear a 100 hours for that. I am tempted to put a trickle charger on my battery and let it run over night in the garage. I need to check that the battery is not draining though with my clip on DC amp meter.

    I have not put speakers in the back doors. With the smaller dia holes and inability to do separates there, I decided it might affect overall sound quality. I also only purchased a 200 W 2 channel amp for the time being (not installed just yet). It just bairly fits under the passenger seat. I often, due to luggage and stuff, do not have have enough air flow in the trunk for amp(s) to be placed there.

    Hope this helps.
    Scott

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