Removing STi stereo bezel?
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This is a discussion on Removing STi stereo bezel? within the Interior Mods forums, part of the Tech & Modifying & General Repairs category; So, how do I remove the plastic fascia that covers the screws holding in the headunit? Do I remove the ...

  1. #1
    Registered User Daytona's Avatar
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    Removing STi stereo bezel?

    So, how do I remove the plastic fascia that covers the screws holding in the headunit? Do I remove the big screw under the ashtray and the screw under the cupholder, or does that one just remove said cupholder?

    I have a stereo coming in from IkeSound and am anxious to install it, but first I must know how to install it...also, if anyone has install tips for the components in the front and the 4" in the rear, like do the rear need the speaker baffles?

    Anyway, I got rearended in my 2 week old STi this evening by some lzr w/out insurance or a drivers license. Reported that crap at the Police Station as hit-and-run...hopefully the vehicle is insured cuz I sho got the license plate...if I thought the wait for the STi was bad, I can't imagine the wait for STi parts...
    Is this extreme?
    Because I don't want to be a part of anything that's not extreme.

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  3. #2
    Registered User ryland's Avatar
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    Re: Removing STi stereo bezel?

    Originally posted by Daytona
    Anyway, I got rearended in my 2 week old STi this evening by some lzr w/out insurance or a drivers license. Reported that crap at the Police Station as hit-and-run...hopefully the vehicle is insured cuz I sho got the license plate...if I thought the wait for the STi was bad, I can't imagine the wait for STi parts...
    I feel your pain, my car was smashed into less than a month after I got it at a graduation party I was attending . It made me want to CRY. Rexie goes in on monday to get fixed up though, so she'll be up and runnin' strong again. I'm sure your car will be fixed soon too, good luck!
    2004 Black WRX Sedan

    Mods = yes

  4. #3
    Registered User Lightning's Avatar
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    i think you'll find that if you remove the cupholder, you can grab the top of the fascia and the bezel will pop off fairly easily. if you have an STi, i believe you have to remove the climate control knobs first. oh and on the standard wrx make sure you take off the little slider knob for the recirculated air before popping the bezel.
    s e t h
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  5. #4
    Registered User Daytona's Avatar
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    So how should I go about removing the climate control knobs? I don't want to break them, so experimenting is out...

    Thanks for the good tip, that will really help out!

    PS: anything on removing door panels or are they just held on w/ clips like most any other car?
    Is this extreme?
    Because I don't want to be a part of anything that's not extreme.

  6. #5
    Registered User Web Foot STi's Avatar
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    I just finished installing a modest system in my STi. Mostly Kenwood. KDC-X569 head, KDC-C719 CD changer, KFC-Xr61P component speakers in the front, KFC-1079ie in the rear, and an Infinity BaseLink.

    To install the head unit you do not have to pull the HVAC knobs, I did but it was paranoia on my part. After removing the cup holder you may have to pull the center HVAC bezel to get enough leverage. The DIN mount is simple after that. Don't forget the power lead for the antenna.

    I'm using the head's 22 Watt amp for the doors and am using the factory wiring to get into the doors. The KDC-X569 has a built in high pass filters to limit the amount of bass the door speaker see. The front panels just pop off, but the rear panels have an obvious "screw" in the rear jamb. None of the doors have speaker mounts. For a components in the front doors you have to fab up tweeter mounts. It's a pain with few landmarks to tell when they are in the right spot. The cross overs needs a mount too, but it is straight forward. There is only one place with enough room under the door panels. There is not a lot of depth in the lower front doors for speakers. That is why I chose Kenworth. Very shallow depth requirement. The rear doors have a reasonable amount of room, but it is such a crummy mounting spot I went for cheap.

    The sub and changer are mounted on the drivers side of the trunk on a 12"x15" cutting board with Velcro. The wiring follows the door jambs forward and is fairly straight forward. The only "fun" part was making up a mini fuse holder for the 10 gage wire from the battery.

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