Labor cost to dynamat the whole car
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This is a discussion on Labor cost to dynamat the whole car within the Interior Mods forums, part of the Tech & Modifying & General Repairs category; Has anyone here dynamat'd all of his/her car? How much did the labor cost for someone else to do the ...

  1. #1
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    Labor cost to dynamat the whole car

    Has anyone here dynamat'd all of his/her car? How much did the labor cost for someone else to do the installation? If not the whole car, part of the car maybe?

    Thanks for the info.

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    Banned dark_rex's Avatar
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    when you say the whole car, what do you mean? the whole trunk?

    the trunk should take about 30 minutes to install, the drying of the adhesive is what takes a little while.

    i was planning on having my doors done also to reduce hwy noise from the tires. the rex has almost no sound dampening (what do you want for 25K right?) so i think it will make the car a lot more pleasant to drive on the longer road trips. each door shouldn't take more than 40 mins. (take the panel off, cut the foam, fit it and secure it, then redo the panel.)


    dR

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    sound insulation for the whole car...

    what I mean by the whole car means just that... the whole car. So it would include the trunk, doors, roof, possibly floor and also hood.

    Another related question, anyone have used the stuff from B-Quiet (www.b-quiet.com) and any feedback? They are considerably cheaper than Dynamat, even with the higher costing Brown Bread.

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    Registered User GregFarz78's Avatar
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    B-QUIET Extreme compares to Dynamat Extreme and its much cheaper. Its very easy to apply and does the job very well. I recommend that over Dynamat.
    2003 WRX this summer
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    Registered User darmom's Avatar
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    Hey GregFarz78, Do we need to dynamat the outer skin of the door, or will it be enough to line the inner layer? I'm trying to kill some road noise.

    also, would the cargo area of my wagon be the biggest road noise generator (and thus, first to get dynamatted) - or should I focus on the doors?

    Anyone have clear instructions on how to remove door panels without snapping any parts?

    Thanks!
    Insert clever remarks here.

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    I just had my wagon done w/ Dynamat Extreme- doors, rear quarter panels and hatch. Made a huge difference in road noise and stereo sound. Plus the doors slam like a bank vault (or a Mercedes). I was charged for 3.5 hours labor, which seems reasonable. It takes about a week for the smell to disappear though

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    Registered User JTREX's Avatar
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    How much weight do you figure it added? Also, who did the work 4 U?

    Originally posted by BSBG
    I just had my wagon done w/ Dynamat Extreme- doors, rear quarter panels and hatch. Made a huge difference in road noise and stereo sound. Plus the doors slam like a bank vault (or a Mercedes). I was charged for 3.5 hours labor, which seems reasonable. It takes about a week for the smell to disappear though
    Drag racing? I like my racing to last longer than the average orgasm...

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    Registered User klancek's Avatar
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    Originally posted by BSBG
    I just had my wagon done w/ Dynamat Extreme- doors, rear quarter panels and hatch
    Hey Ken, do you remember how much square feet it takes to do the whole wagon? (guess that's related to JT's question; just multiply by the weight/sqr foot) ..and you didn't have the floor or roof done, but you still get the mercedes effect, eh? That b-quiet stuff looks pretty neat, wonder if it would give the same effect.

    Greg, others: How badly can a interior molding idiot mess things up? (echoing Darmom: I don't know how to avoid damaging clips.) Are there any decent DIY websites or books I should know about?

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    As far as how much material, they charged me for just one door kit. Seemed to be about ten-fifteen pounds or so when I hefted the box. There is more than enough to do the front doors and have some leftovers for the rear doors. Since I was having my second full install done, they donated the material to do the rear quarter panels and hatch .

    The work was done by Audiolink, "the car entertainment people" in Manchester, NH. audiolink.biz They also did my stealth sub enclosure, but that's another thread...

    It is easy to screw up the doors - they busted the trim ring on Wednesday to check for a rattle in the door - $6.40 for a trim ring. If you get that off OK and take the screws out, it seems to pop / lift right on and off.

  11. #10
    Registered User klancek's Avatar
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    Originally posted by BSBG
    It is easy to screw up the doors ...
    OK, does anyone know a good way to "reckon" square footage for molded panels? Also, am I correct in thinking that only the inside of the body panels need 1 layer of material? ..or do ya basically coat everything that's not in the way of a window mechanism? The rear of the wagon needs some help.

    Answering my own question on door panels, searching i-club using "WRX AND door AND panel AND remove" (note, wildc*rds don't work right) gets qutie a few hits. Including this PDF for speaker upgrade install from subaruparts.com. Apparently, though tight, the ring around the door lever can be popped off by grabbing the whole panel and pulling.. oh, and being lucky, too.

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