2011 SWP Hatch boost gauge install
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This is a discussion on 2011 SWP Hatch boost gauge install within the Interior Mods forums, part of the Tech & Modifying & General Repairs category; Today I installed my Prosport Premium (with peak) using 08SubieWRX's A-pillar pod he made for me. Install went pretty smooth, ...

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    Registered User nopistons93's Avatar
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    2011 SWP Hatch boost gauge install

    Today I installed my Prosport Premium (with peak) using 08SubieWRX's A-pillar pod he made for me. Install went pretty smooth, I'll go over the basic process I did.

    Since I don't have easy access to a jack and stands, I decided to keep the wheel on for this install. First, I turned the wheel so that I had plenty of access to the wheel well.



    This gave the me ability to take off part of the fender liner. The main two pop's are displayed here.



    You must also remove part of the side skirt, and then remove the fender grille piece. Start by popping out the plastic pops under the side skirt up front.



    Then remove just pull the side skirt, it will pop loose.



    Next, starting at the top of the fender piece, pull it directly towards you, working your way down till you get it off. After removing this piece, you can start pulling out the fender liner, eventually you'll get it to right about here:


    Unplug your BOV's vacuum line, and install the T-fitting that came with the gauge. I DID NOT CUT my stock vacuum line, there is no need to do this! All I did was add on a small piece of new vacuum hose that I found at my lab, literally it is only 3" in length. I then connected the sender using the supplied nylon line.



    Next, setup the sender unit somewhere in the engine bay, and run the sender wires through the side of the fender as seen here.



    Eventually, you'll fish the line through and it will reach as seen here.



    I then ran the cable directly through the grommet seen here, I did NOT cut the grommet, I simply added it underneath the bottom side, and then pulled the grommet back over top of the wire. There seems to be no gap, and I'll be watching for any strange issues.



    Finally in the interior.



    Once you get to this part, your basically 90% done. All of the hard work is finished, now it's up to your location of the gauge (SMY cluster, A-pillar, stock mount, etc.) in how you decide to route your wiring. I constructed my own harness using the stock Prosport supplied harness.



    Seen here is how I decided to get power; I hooked up plug and play fuse taps that are 100% reversible and do not damage the fuse box. I also installed a ground prong (ring terminal) that is able to be screwed down into a chosen spot. All the wiring is done with butt connectors and shrink wrap, which is all wrapped in electrical tape. Didn't feel the need to use the plastic sheathing since it will never see the outside.


    Finally, I removed the A-pillar.


    Unscrew..


    Pull towards you not to the side..



    I then fished the wires through the A-pillar gauge pod, replaced the new A-pillar with pod, connected the gauge, ran the wires down to the fuse box, installed them as

    Red: #3 fuse titled "DOOR LOCK"
    White: #31 Fuse titled "ACC"
    Amber: #16 fuse titled "ILM"
    Black: Grounded




    Finally, this is the end result.
    Daytime is white, for better visibility.



    Nighttime is amber, white is too bright anyway.



    Any questions, just shoot me a PM or Email.

    -Joe

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    Registered User nopistons93's Avatar
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    One might ask, "Joe, how did you remember which wire was which?" Ah, good question! Make sure you label your wires somehow, I wrote on the wire with a super small Sharpie which color was which. I didn't have access to a vast supply of wiring, and I was not going to spend $20 bucks so I can color code my wiring (Advanced only sells 40' spools for $7.49/one), that's for damn sure.

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    Moderator rage-wrx's Avatar
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    Looks great.I have the same gauge.
    T0ny
    2011 WRX
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    The Big 2011/2012 Mod Thread


    Ooh,hang on. That is the throb of a turbocharged flat four engine. A sound which,all over the world,heralds the imminent arrival of a moron - JC.

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    Registered User G8toWRXDave's Avatar
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    Looks great, good job! I went a different route trying not to be noticed easily, but one gauge low on the pillar isnt too bad. I like it.

    I originally had that gauge:


    but switched to the halo series:

    2011 WRX Limited - Dark Grey Metallic
    [Cobb stage 2 93+ SF Intake] [Invidia Catted DP] [SMY Gauge Cluster w/Boost and Volt Gauges] [Monkeybone Racing Heater Vent Gauge Panel w/Oil Pressure and Temp Gauges]
    [Cobb Heatshield] [Kartboy SS] [Weathertech Floorliners] [Hardwired V1 w/Remote Display] [Complete Aftermarket Audio System] [Lighted WRX fender badges]

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    Registered User nopistons93's Avatar
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    Lol, yea, one gauge on A-pillar versus 4 gauges, two of which are in the vents, is definitely a little more high profile! I've always had a single A-pillar boost gauge in every turbo car I've owned, and I always will. It's my favorite spot by far for a boost gauge.

  7. #6
    Gold Member lokey's Avatar
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    Stellar write-up.
    * * PART-OUT IN PROGRESS. SEE FIRST POST. EMAIL REASONABLE OFFERS TO GREG.LOKEY@GMAIL * *

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    Friends don't let friends drive Mitsubishis.

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    Registered User nopistons93's Avatar
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    Thanks bud.

    Night shot..


  9. #8
    Registered User 08SubieWrx's Avatar
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    Gauge looks awesome... And glad the pod made it safe and sound!!! I love the look of the single mounted down low like that... Looks real clean and not really noticeable (Unlike the double/ triple ones)!

  10. #9
    Registered User wrx50's Avatar
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    I ran mine through the grommet that is behind the tmic. It was a pita. Wishing I went this route.....how are the gauges reading? my pro sport premium boost gauge for my 2011 was alway off by like 2 psi no matter what. I would zero it out and it would go right back after like a week. eventually I got rid of it and went with aem

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    Registered User BlankWRX's Avatar
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    I don't mean to revive a dead topic, but this is a great write-up. I'm looking to go this route when I install a boost gauge in the next few weeks. Just waiting on my tax money.

    I am also not planning on cutting through the stock vacuum hose, was there a specific size of the new vacuum hose that you used? And hose clamps?

    Did you ever run into any problems with running the wires under the grommet as opposed to through it?

  12. #11
    Registered User nopistons93's Avatar
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    Still no issues. I used the supplied t for the hose and supplied vac hose with the kit. I'd have to check on the stock hose size to give you a 100% solid answer. All in all, this method had been proven to be reliable.

    Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I747 using Tapatalk

  13. #12
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    Did you wire the sender to the harness? mine wont seem to power. and where did you ground it?
    2008 Victory Red Cobalt SS Turbo
    24 psi Tune, TurboXS Catless DP, Injen upper CP, Hahn CAI, Forge VTA BOV, twin Aeroforce Interceptors, Powell Race shop CABs, CM Lowering springs, Treadstone TR10 Big FMIC.
    2014 WRX Plasma Blue Pearl
    Stock...for now

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