This is a discussion on Omori boost gauge in an 2011 q's within the Interior Mods forums, part of the Tech & Modifying & General Repairs category; Just got an Omori boost gauge (AEB-030) and have a few questions for people who installed them, vendor isn't very ...
Just got an Omori boost gauge (AEB-030) and have a few questions for people who installed them, vendor isn't very responsive for some reason...
1) Boost tap - seems like T-fitting that came with the kit is a bit small for the hose that's typically used for tapping into in '08's cars (NASIOC - View Single Post - SMY and Defi Gauges install - great pics if you want them!).
2) Dimming - since 08+ MY's use PWM instead of voltage variation for dimming and Omori's use LEDs for backlighting - shouldn't these gauges just work without requiring a special adapter that J-spec sells for dimming control (to decrease brightness)? I think stereo harness has two pins that do dimming - pin 1 is simply on/off. Pin 2 on the other hand is a PWM signal (pulses on 12V), might work well. I think that gauge backlight is too bright if it's plugged into constant 12V.
3) Fitment - it seems like I have to force the gauge into the mounting cup, it doesn't slide in at all. Is it a defect in the cup (fixable) or is it meant to be this way? If so it seems like a one-way solution as I can't imagine being able to remove the gauge later on without damaging it or the housing cup. Also makes little U-bracket that comes with the gauge kinda' pointless.
"At dawn they sleep..."
"At dawn they sleep..."
I just tap my gauge in the line coming from the fuel pressure regulator to the manifold. I used a t fitting at 1st. Since then I have upgraded and its got its own port on the manifold. All you need is a good signal coming from the manifold. Then test it out in the driveway.
Dimming is done on mine by the gauge controler. But I always leave them on high. Just easier to read. Just be careful and make sure that a 12v source can be used direct to the gauge. If you go that route. Some of those dimmers can run off much less and the LED will want much less as well. Unless its got a electronic step down built into teh gauge. Then 12v is fine. Otherwise you may run the risk of burning out the LED's. What did the directions that came with it say?
Fitment once again with the defi's are tight. You dont want them loose. They will spin around in the cup. Make sure you also have the correct cup for it to be in. Or if there is a rubber gasket that goes between the gauge and the cup. You might have that in the box the gauge came in.
Other then that. make sure to watch your gauge placement. Some places are good some are bad. Maybe use some 2 sided tape for a few days to see if that is where you like it. Before a permaent method is used.
And be aware that some states the police see a gauge in the car and they might think you are a racer and pull you over. So pick a location for the gauge that might be out of site for Police and the local parking lot bad guy that might smash your window to steal it.
Hope this helps a tad.
"At dawn they sleep..."
I received my Omori gauge today and I've read a lot of conflicting info on how to go about installing this thing on a 2011 WRX. A buddy and I did one in his LGT (the wiring was incorrect from the factory but he was able to exchange it) and I remember it being relatively straightforward besides the faulty pressure sender.
Since 08+ are LED backlit, were you able to use the default pwm to dim the gauge without the little dimmer accessory? I intend to tap into the wiring by the cluster dimmer switch...
On the tight fit, my gauge also needs a little motivation to fit, but I imagine after I mount the cup I'd have to push the gauge out from the back somehow or undo the whole mount to access the gauge.
I haven't installed it yet (shooting for this weekend), but I have gathered good chunk of info I think. Here's what I have so far:
* Gauge & wiring location/pick-up:
Main reason for hold-up, I can't quite decide on where to place the gauge.
> Location #1: left corner of clock pod/compartment;
- Pros: good road/gauge visibility without being obnoxious, close proximity to clock harness to tap into.
- Cons: no straightforward way of gauge mounting without drilling the dash (I might mount it to my phone holder), might need to modify/drill clock surround to access wiring harness (or drill a bigger hole in the dash to pass the cables through).
> Location #2: Steering column, left;
- Pros: easiest & cleanest cable routing & pickup (steering column, stereo, clock, or even fuse panel if you really want to, more on that later), looks decent;
- Cons: gauge obscures part of the tach/cluster, have to look down to see boost, have to remove column shroud to drill and install.;
> Location #3: OEM-ish, cluster hood, perhaps slightly lower;
- Pros: visibility almost as good as #1, easy access to wiring if bigger hole is drilled to pass wiring in an OEM manner, can replace cluster hood easily if necessary.
- Cons: looks a little hokey, cup texture doesn't really match, look a little out of place, have to REALLY drill cluster hood.
> Location #4: left pillar;
- Pros: decent visibility, not too out of place since the gauge is smaller;
- Cons: no easy way of mounting it, have to really get the mounting holes right to nail the gauge angle correctly, a little "ricey"?
I tried wiring the gauge directly to the dimmer wire - no luck, LEDs inside do not respond to Subaru's PWM signals (illumination appears to be at the same level). Too bad as I was hoping that it works in tandem with foot-well LED kit, that would have been easy I had an idea of using spare foot-well kit and do a LED transplant but I'm worried about destroying the gauge (it's sorta sealed and who knows how lighting is set-up inside).
I checked out the dimmer switch, I don't think it tweaks the duty cycle directly but merely a part of a control loop so can't tap there. That would have been easy too. I think the actual "brains" of the dimmer reside in the cluster itself, notice how the tach & speedo dim when you remove the key (always lit and then gently dim if you pull the key, pseudo-independent of the light switch). I hear relay clicking off after ignition is off but the gauges dim slowly. Also notice that gauges are always on (backlit), the intensity changes when lights are turned on but nonetheless some sort of illumination is always present in our cars in the dash.
The moral of the story is that unless there's a break-through of some sort with the dimming circuit - you might as well tie ACC & ILLUM togther and wire them to any ACC point in the car. Constant 12V/Batt should be tied to a constant source, but that simply holds the gauge needle in the 6 o'clock position. Strictly speaking you could wire all three signals together and not see much difference, the gauge performance is not impacted.
Dimming accessory (it's friggin huge!) that they include does cut down on intensity, but as someone mentioned in other threads it only brings it down to the highest setting of the dimmer (still helpful).
I wouldn't use fuse panel for pick-up only because it's really obvious if someone goes in there (but it is the easiest way). Plus, that fuse 90 degree adapter obstructs fuses adjacent to it. IMHO something like that is good for items that you may want to pull out some day (like radar detector or something) but for a gauge my preference is for something cleaner, splicing in somewhere out of the way.
Last edited by sl8anic; 09-29-2011 at 07:35 AM.
"At dawn they sleep..."
Great info, thanks! I think I'm going with location #2 and may try the fuse solution at first. If the dimmer accessory doesn't produce the desired results I may try to build a little accessory myself out of a 555 IC and provide variable pwm to the gauge.
Installation was pretty easy, I used the fuse add-a-circuit method, and it was painless. Wound up fishing the wiring through the big wiring harness grommet near the passenger side versus one of the smaller plugs (they had a lot of insulation/etc to battle through).... the biggest PITA was actually mounting the cup to the top of the column cover. I chose that location after playing with a few others... ultimately it looks factory-ish, and out of the way, and only covers the sight-line to the DSC light I believe.
Dimming: Wired in the dimming accessory and sure enough it closely matches the highest setting on the dash dimmer. I may investigate building my own little dimming solution and providing pwm to the gauge in the future, but this evening it wasn't a problem. I'm glad I ordered the accessory since even with it the gauge is BRIGHT... it would probably be burned into my retinas otherwise. One thing I did notice is that without a visor on the mounting cup/gauge I see the reflection in the windshield at night under certain circumstances... don't think this is going to be a problem though.
Good news overall is that install wasn't too hard, the dimming accessory works, the gauge powers on, does a sweep, and appears to function.
Bad news is that the sender is likely faulty. At ACC position the gauge powers, sweeps, and calibrates itself to something like 3-4psi... not 0. At idle it's reading about 14-16 in/Hg, although the AP reports idle vacuum at -10.2 psi (or around 20 in/Hg), which is what the gauge should be reading. At peak boost the gauge reads a bit over 20psi, which I know is higher than what a Cobb AP Stage 2 setup would be pushing and what the AP reports. I replaced the provided t-splitter with another one and this didn't have any effect, gauge still calibrates to 3 psi.
Looks like I'll be waiting for a replacement sender and have to fish it through the firewall/dash all over again. Boo.
Key in ACC position
Last edited by SeattleDGM11; 10-01-2011 at 02:49 PM.
Nice nice nice. Sucks about the sender though, but you already laid the tracks, lol.
The t-fitting that was included with the gauge, did it fit ok into the valve piping? It seemed a little small, at least the first set of "barbs".
"At dawn they sleep..."
When I was trying to troubleshoot the gauge I actually went to OReilly's and picked up a better t-fitting with 3 different barb levels. The stock kit comes with a fitting that fit well enough on the larger barb... but it's not the strongest looking fitting ever. When doing the same install on my friend's LGT he snapped it in two trying to fit it in the hose. I also put on some real micro screw clamps instead of zip-ties... it's just easier to deal with those when undoing the whole thing (which I had to do to troubleshoot the gauge)... shouldn't be an issue with it coming undone under boost.
After a bunch of emails back and forth, JSpec is sending me a new sender... they also suggested grounding it to B(-) directly and not the chassis, though I am skeptical that this would be an issue. I wound up running a ground to the big 12mm bolt that mounts the dash assembly to the chassis right next to the interior fuse panel. Guess we'll see if the new sender works to calibrate the gauge to 0 at ACC....
We're almost there! JSpec sent me a replacement sender and I tried it last night, the gauge now calibrates to 0 after the sweep so it appears to have been a bad sender. I'll have to fish out the old one and run the wiring through again this weekend, but that shouldn't be too hard the second time around.
Overall I like the gauge, but not the hassle to get all this working correctly. Of course YMMV, but my friend's install had a bad sender (actual plug was mis-wired) and my sender would not calibrate to 0... both were replaced by JSpec.
Good luck with your install, when working correctly the price for this setup is pretty good for a nice gauge that matches the LED dash lighting.
Thanks for the update. I ended-up splicing into clock cluster wiring, colors of the harness (on an '11 anyway):
* Battery/const +12V: BLUE/RED;
* Ground: BLACK/YELLOW;
* ACC/switchable +12V: BROWN/WHITE;
Verified that the sender is Ok before the install, should have some pictures shortly.
"At dawn they sleep..."