2006 Sti Rattling Questions
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This is a discussion on 2006 Sti Rattling Questions within the Interior Mods forums, part of the Tech & Modifying & General Repairs category; Ok well after driving around in my 06 Sti for about a week i wasn't too happy with how the ...

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    Registered User BLUEBLUR's Avatar
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    2006 Sti Rattling Questions

    Ok well after driving around in my 06 Sti for about a week i wasn't too happy with how the audio. I was thinkin on transferring my old system which include Infinity Kappa Components powered by the Infinity Kappa 5 (A five channel Amp) and a sub. Well I HATE rattling especially in trunks. I was wondering if any of you guys had more info on how bad it rattles with a 10" or 12" in the trunk. Thanks guys!

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    Sammich Makin' Pwincess wrxtreme06's Avatar
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    my original set up was 2 10" dual subs. they weren't the best and the rattling was a little more evident especially on songs with a lot of bass.

    now i have 1 12" JL sub and the rattling isnt that noticeable. ive been outside of the car while a heavy bass song was on and its more of a slight vibration more than anything else.

    desiree
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    Master Baiter EJ257's Avatar
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    The car will rattle more inside than outside.

    The remedy is CLD/CCF.

    See below for Rick@RAAMAudio's advice on Sound Deadening an STI:
    Quote Originally Posted by raamaudio
    I have three levels of sound deadening I will recommend from now on, this may be for the RS as well as I have seen it posted they are quite noisy as well. And, any other sedan with really loud road noise, especially from the rear of the car.

    1) Basic deadening, effective to a fairly high degree, lower weight and cost as well as labor.

    -Front doors, doors with speakers, remove door panel and plastic moisture barrier, toss it in the trash.
    -One layer of mat on 2/3 of the outer door skin, overlap the seems, add two more smaller layers, about 10" sq, behind the speakers. Then the same size piece of close cell foam on top of those layers(ensulite foam is best.
    -Check for loose wires, cables, etc, inside the door, secure with foam tape, tie wraps, etc. build up the speaker mounting location by making a solid baffel that you can screw to the door then the speakers to it, MDF works great and easy to work with. Use a gasket between it and the door metal and screw it down snugly.
    -Seal up the door access holes with a piece of tin, I use perforated aluminum, this gives the next layer of mat something to stick to and tightens up the midbass response.
    -Install one layer of mat over the inner door metal, seal all air passages possible, cut the mat back around 1" from edge of door panel. Mat right up to and onto the sides of the new speaker baffel, this stiffens the whole area alot more, helps midbass response.
    -Add a layer of 1/8" close cell foam, ensulite again is best but hard to find, to the top of the mat, cut around all mounting points, same for the mat, to make sure the door panel will fit back on ok, cut back around 1/2" from edge of panel. Go right over the speaker baffel then cut out the speaker hole area, the foam absorbs or breaks up unwanted accoustical energy inside the door panel area and makes a great gasket.
    -Tap on the back of the door panel, being plastic it will have resonate areas. Add patches of mat to those areas until it sounds deadened, usually about 1/4 of the surface is enough, install the panel and test the the door, slam it a few times and listen for rattles, etc.

    -Rear doors, I advise to ditch the speakers then seal up the doors like the front but no mat needed on the outer door skin, it is mainly for improving midbass response, no speakers, no midbass, no baffles needed either so skip those steps and patch over the stock speaker hole. The low mounted speakers are in a horrible location anyway. Saves weight and money, 99.9% of the best comp cars in the world do not use rear speakers, I never do. But, it you must have them, do the rear doors exactly like the fronts.

    -Lower A pillars, in front of the doors, remove the kick panel trim, lift the factory deadening pad, mat over the big holes there then a layer of foam, wrap over the wiring the best you can to seal them up well, any holes you can reach above that, do the same.

    -Wheel wells, one layer of mat on the whole rear wheel wells then a layer of ensolite over that.

    -Behind rear seat, one layer of mat over the factory black plastic covering the trunk access whole, seal up all around the edges and all other holes into the trunk possible. Overlap the two verticle steel sq tubes that brace the rear deck. One layer of Ensolite over the whole area and the floor under the rear seat.

    -Rear deck, EXTREMELY CRITICAL, the most important area in an STI. Seal up all the holes you can, hard to mount metal there so use a layer of mat over the wholes then a second layer of mat over the whole area. Then go under the deck and add patches of mat to the holes, etc, it will stick really well to the exposed sticky side of the mat you installed on the top of the deck. Then foam over the whole area.
    -Problem, you need to have at least a access for the ventilation system to push air through. I think a sound absorbing tunnel, simply bent aluminum with an ensolite liner, may be the ticket, will try to make one when I do some touchup deadening on the STI we just worked on.

    This install level would take around 60 sq ft of whatever mat brand you choose and 3 yards of 1/8" close cell foam, Ensolite being far superior to anything else I know of. Total weight gain for this level of deadening will be around 26-27 lbs.

    Notes:
    -For a bit more improvement, low cost, etc, you can use whatever scraps left over on the floor of the car, tap around, put it only on the resonate areas. Then a layer of ensolite over the whole floor. Two more yards will be enough if you have some left from the above steps.

    2)Upper mid level deadening all the above and or below.

    -All doors as #1

    -Wheel wells, add a second layer of mat over the larger sections, then the foam.

    -Behind rear seat, add a second layer of mat over the first layer, just in the middle is fine, about 4 sq ft. There are two small plates on the vertical supports, bolt the area you just matted to the braces through those. (Not a bad idea for #1 as well)

    -Rear Deck, as #1, I have not worked out the accoutical trap tunnel for the vent system but a basic one would do wonders. Just bend some thin aluminum, line it with ensolite and attach to the underside of the rear deck. We left the 1" or so holes open that are nearest to the rear vents on the top of the deck. They are a bit small but help reduce noise intrusion being that size, they may need to be opened up a bit. It will be hard for me to further develop an exacting solution unless I have another vehicle to work on or the one we just did, we are going to drive down to install the sub box once I get teh molds finalized off the prototype unit and I will do a bit more work in that area as well as a test of the basic accoustical trap.

    -Interior floor, mat the whole floor(does not need every sq inch done but at least 80% minimum, hardened, rounded over, strong areas can be left unmatted. As a second patch here and there over the more resonate areas(thump it with your fist, sounds boomy, add a patch of mat. Then a full layer of ensolite.

    -Under dash, line all areas you can with Ensolite(or any inferior substitute, only saying this because I have found nothing manf anywhere near as good, easy to use, fits where needed, cheap, etc) Leave at least some open areas as it is needed for the ventilation system circulation to work.

    -Trunk, without subs. Line the floor with mat, 74-80% is fine, the primary concern is resonate areas, full coverage does not add much to the effectiveness. Line the whole trunk with ensolite. Rear panels are fairly stiff and do not seem to need matted. Mat, foam, etc, your water sprayer container, it is terribly noise. Use tie wraps, foam, silicone, go over every wire, cable etc and make sure they do not resonate.

    -Trunk with subs, Line the side walls, rear wall, and trunk lid with mat. On the trunk lid cut patches of mat the size of the holes in the frame, just a tad larger, install them and tuck the excess under the frame edges. Then cut another patch the same but a big larger and work it down onto the first but over the frame to bond the skin and frame together. (Before matting the lid check for any rattles from wiring, etc, and foam, silicone, tie wrap, etc, to make it solid) Done well this is usually enough mat on a trunk lid, if you have a massive sub system you may want to add a third layer of mat and cover more of the frame but not needed to cover it fully, just near the holes.
    -At least on the STI the trunk lide has access holes on the rear of it, I would cut aluminum, etc, like the door sections above, cover them, mat over it and then line the whole trunk lid with ensolite, carefully applied it can look fairly nice. If you want it trimed out even more then install nonbacked carpet to it or buy a liner from the dealer but test fit as you do the deadening.

    I think that is about it and would do all you need for most high end installs, added weight will be around 52-54 lbs. Approx 100+ sq ft of mat, 5 yards of Ensolite.

    [OVERKILL SECTION REMOVED TO CONSERVE SPACE]

    Any of the above steps can be adjusted to suite your individual desires and use whatever brand of products you chose of course, there is always room for adjustments and improvements. Anyone have more to add here please do so!!!

    My brain is now tired, I will edit for errors later, lol

    Rick
    Source: STI sound deadening, new tutorial - NASIOC
    2005 WRX STi (Mods | Virtual Dyno)

    Resident Tuner @ WTF Tuning, LLC

    "Never trust anything that bleeds for a week and lives ..."

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    Registered User BLUEBLUR's Avatar
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    haha once again thanks. Yea i was going to only use one 12" or 10". I was going to go all out and dynamat the whole trunk but I think I'm just gonna get the license plate kit. What kind of box do you have? I wanted one of these 05-07 Subaru WRX/STI Sedan 12 Inch Perfect Fit Enclosure

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    Registered User BLUEBLUR's Avatar
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    [QUOTE=EJ257;2765845]
    The remedy is CLD/CCF.


    Sorry but what does that stand for?

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    Sammich Makin' Pwincess wrxtreme06's Avatar
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    i bought it from my brother so i dont know too much about it. the badge says "rt mobile sound system"

    googled it and got this: RT Obcon Subwoofer Boxes For JL|JBL|MTX|Rockford|Pioneer|Alpine|Kenwood|Kicker - RTBoxes Subwoofer Enclosures

    desiree
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    Registered User BLUEBLUR's Avatar
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    Oh yea I see, but it looks good, hmmmmmm still need to research some more. Are those tail lights from the blob eye?

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    Master Baiter EJ257's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by BLUEBLUR
    Sorry but what does that stand for?
    Sound Deadener Showdown - Your Source for Sound Deadening Products and Information
    Sound Deadener Showdown - Your Source for Sound Deadening Products and Information

    Quote Originally Posted by BLUEBLUR
    haha once again thanks. Yea i was going to only use one 12" or 10". I was going to go all out and dynamat the whole trunk but I think I'm just gonna get the license plate kit. What kind of box do you have? I wanted one of these 05-07 Subaru WRX/STI Sedan 12 Inch Perfect Fit Enclosure
    Do the advice that I posted. Option 1 seems to be what you're looking for. Skip Dynamat, go with RAAM/SDS.

    Audio Integrations makes fantastic stuff. They're a bit busy right now, so if they don't have any of the enclosures in stock, it may take a little longer than normal. I've got an amp rack coming from them soon.

    I have an enclosure from JSEnclosures:
    http://www.jsenclosures.com/product_...&products_id=4

    Mine doesn't have the logos on it, though.
    Last edited by EJ257; 06-10-2011 at 03:13 PM.
    2005 WRX STi (Mods | Virtual Dyno)

    Resident Tuner @ WTF Tuning, LLC

    "Never trust anything that bleeds for a week and lives ..."

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    Sammich Makin' Pwincess wrxtreme06's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by BLUEBLUR View Post
    Oh yea I see, but it looks good, hmmmmmm still need to research some more. Are those tail lights from the blob eye?
    Yes they are

    desiree
    your friendly, neighborhood subaru girl
    abbigale : 06 impreza wrx tr: cobb stage II
    hawkeye alliance #11:11//
    wingl3ss @ll!ance #17 // lvl 80 N.E.R.D.

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    Registered User BLUEBLUR's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by EJ257 View Post

    I have an enclosure from JSEnclosures:
    02-07 Impreza/WRX/STI Sedan - Single 10" Showboat enclosure for 02-07 Subaru Impreza sedans JSEnclosures

    Mine doesn't have the logos on it, though.
    Oh wow looks good man. So does this enclosure still allow you to get in and out of the spare tire compartment? Thats why i wanted the audio integrations enclosure so i could still use my trunk for going back and forth from college and home, since I have an 8 hour drive through snow I think my friends are probably going to be riding with me so I want to have the extra space. how much space does your enclosure leave?

  12. #11
    Master Baiter EJ257's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by BLUEBLUR
    Oh wow looks good man. So does this enclosure still allow you to get in and out of the spare tire compartment? Thats why i wanted the audio integrations enclosure so i could still use my trunk for going back and forth from college and home, since I have an 8 hour drive through snow I think my friends are probably going to be riding with me so I want to have the extra space. how much space does your enclosure leave?
    I would have to remove the enclosure to access the spare tire.

    The enclosure leaves pretty much the entire trunk.
    2005 WRX STi (Mods | Virtual Dyno)

    Resident Tuner @ WTF Tuning, LLC

    "Never trust anything that bleeds for a week and lives ..."

    UNYSOC

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