This is a discussion on 2006 WRX TR mechanical boost gauge wiring questions. within the Interior Mods forums, part of the Tech & Modifying & General Repairs category; So I just bought a Prosport mechanical boost gauge and tried to do some research on installing it today with ...
So I just bought a Prosport mechanical boost gauge and tried to do some research on installing it today with limited success.
I should be clear that I am an absolute car wiring idiot and I'm sure this is a lot easier than I'm imagining it to be. My question is what is the best location to wire the four wires on the back of the gauge to? Somewhere behind the radio? Fusebox? My ass?
Also, what is the best method to connect them with some sort of butt connectors (this time not an ass joke) or some other method?
Thanks in advance to anyone who reads this and offers me some advice!
In all seriousness, the factory boost gauge wiring circuit is taped up behind the radio. You can splice into those two wires. Then you'll need to cut a hole in the grommet in the firewall and run the vacuum line and tie into the BPV. There are a few how to's floating around. Its pretty simple, but I recommend having someone help you with the wiring.
So even though mine has four wires, can I tie them all into those two from the factory connection? The prosport one tells you which wires to tap into in terms of type but not location.
It had 2 wires IIRC:
12v+ Diming illumination
Then a manual vacuum lead.
I gave up and looked it up.
This is for both the premium and performance series. Green lead is for an electric boost gauge.
A: Black –Ground
Red - 12v ign. power-meaning power when the ignition is on.
White- 12v ign. power
Green - Sender
Last edited by 06wrx4me; 09-28-2010 at 07:58 AM.
Yes that is the same wiring as stated in the directions. Now where is the best spot to find those wires to tap into? Fusebox or behind the radio? Thanks.
You can make all your connections to the clock pod or factory boost harness behind the radio.
For factory boost gauge harness.
You can pick up the illumination wire (orange) behind the radio along with the 12v+. You'll have to run a ground wire.
or you can hook to the clock wiring:
White + Red = ACC
Orange = ILL
Black = GND
No need to go to fuse panel or steering column.
Thank you very much for the help. So simple cutting and splicing should take care of this? I'm not much for using a soldering gun.
I would probably suggest for a NEWB like yourself, an inline splice so that you do not have to "cut" your factory harness, but it is entirely up to you.
If you decide to cut and splice, be sure to use the correct crimpers, preferably ratcheting type and approved by the red-yellow-blue crimp MFG you go with. Also use the correct connector for wire size.
A lot of people develop bad habits and cause problems by using the $7 crimper kit from the local autoparts store, then wonder why they have electrical gremlins. I never recommend those kits unless in an emergency situation.
I recommend a crimper like this.
Consistent and repeatable gas tight crimps.
If you are going to make a habit of it, buy this.
Most people do more damage to the wire and insulation with soldering than a simple crimp connection anyways. Crimp terminals are an accepted Automotive industry standard both inside and outside the vehicle. Almost every wire in your car is terminated with a crimped end terminal.
"Soldering" started life in military applications back before crimp terminals became what they are today. Now the military even uses Deutsch style crimp connectors. Soldering is now primarily used in wafer style computer boards and associated circuitry.
Last edited by 06wrx4me; 09-28-2010 at 11:18 AM.
Thanks for the help again. I have a buddy who went to trade school for electrical work and he can help me do the actual work. Hopefully this goes without a hitch.
Its not nearly as complicated as you're making it.
Use vampire connectors.... that way you don't have to cut anything.
Pull the radio out.... and splice in your connectors..... it's that simple.
In fact, I believe the colors will match up... so that makes it even easier.
Even if they don't, the factory stereo wiring harness on your car has wires that are actually LABELED. Absolute piece of cake.
2006 Subaru WRX-Thread: http://www.clubwrx.net/forums/engine-modifications/165158-ninfourteeners-progress-thread-pics.html
1978 Subaru BRAT-Thread: http://www.clubwrx.net/forums/engine...ss-thread.html
2007 Subaru B9Tribeca Ltd (PSM)........1994 Subaru SVX LSi(SOLD)
WRX 12 sec drag (vs. late model Camaro SS):http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lw0vWdD2cjU
WRX track racing (catching a stg.2 WRX): http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mELeSD1Mi08
I'm sure it really isn't as complicated as I'm making it, I have just never messed with car wiring before. And for vampire clips, I cannot find them anywhere online. I always end up finding Twilight related stuff. Fail.
Im kind of in a similar boat, but im pretty sure now ill just get mine professionally wired (all the mechanical stuff i can do, and wonder if the shop will discount me on that...hmmmm). I was more curous on the fitting/hose side. I have read here and there that i should ditch the t-connecter and hose provided by prosport and get some hosing and a t-connector from my local parts store. Is this necessary? I plan on using the BPV line, like spt does, to put my t-connector at. Is the exisiting hose and connector too small?