Giant alarm system installation
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This is a discussion on Giant alarm system installation within the Interior Mods forums, part of the Tech & Modifying & General Repairs category; Hey guys, I recieved a new security system for Christmas, and I am just now finished with getting the wire ...

  1. #1
    Registered User Impreza2.0's Avatar
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    Giant alarm system installation

    Hey guys, I recieved a new security system for Christmas, and I am just now finished with getting the wire charts organized to begin the installation, I figured I would share some of it with you.

    I have about 3 years of professional experience installing these for Honda in Maryland.

    The system is a Zenesis 602 revision. I have yet to find any thread on any forum where a writeup on how to install window control or remote start are full covered. I am not going to give locations for a few items, but if you are putting it in it will be much easier to understand me than if you are taking it out.

    Otherwise, the antijacking and remote coding are so good, I don't mind telling you how it goes in.

    There's nearly 150 wires involved, but when you are done reading, you will know how to roll the windows down, up, vent, rear roll only, front roll only, auto rollup while arming, auto vent at programmed temperature, and timed interval venting...
    How to install a remote starter w/ turbo timer, paging reminders, idle control, accessory control, lighting control, entry from remote, lockout from remote, key drive only, clutch bypass, ebrake bypass, and a few other starter safety controls...
    How to install starter kill, remote door lock control integration w/ factory keyless entry system, light flash, dome light supervision, programming of turbo timer functions, programming of window knock paging code, window control by knock sequence, trunk release by knock sequence, stereo power bypass by knock sequence w/ sub cutoff...
    Trunk solenoid installation, button locations, window controller operation...

    It's a lot to cover, and a few pics along the way for the public eye, obviously I am not going to say where my connections are going, since it is a security system, and charts are free everywhere on the internet, so if that's the end you are looking to learn, start with the charts, then keep reading.

    I wanted to document this because the system is nearly unknown in the US, and what we do knowis wrong. It has a reputation as being junk because of refurbished pieces being the only ones allowed into the country. Don't ask me how it matters if electronics are used or not, that they are inspected for shipping...

    This system is pretty nicely built. The brain is solid and well constructed, the remote is rubber over metal w/ a glass screen and is brightly backlit, easy to use, and very informative. It is not the gadgety HD screened version, this one keeps a battery for around a month, where the Viper 5902, Clifford 592.X, and whatever other DEI systems lose charge in 3 days once the battery is broken in. The Zenesis HD remote is the same way, and I would rather use a 12 pack of batteries in 6 months, rather than recharge some hundreds of times. One AAA goes a month if they are new and good ones. As for the brain's spare inputs and outputs, it's rediculous. If I could wire them together, it could secure two cars. I will only be doing simple stuff, remote lighting control mostly. The window roller setup uses only remote memory, so there's no added wiring, just a massive code made out of timed keypresses.

    I'll post some pics of the system this evening, then I will get started on the simpler things, remote start first. I really need to be able to time and keep the car warm this Winter, and we have no thermally insulated outdoor outlets, so the block heater is waiting until next year.
    Last edited by Impreza2.0; 01-02-2010 at 09:20 AM.

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    i will tell you with the 5901 which is what i have, it does not lose charge for about 2 months and it is rechargeable.

    i am an installer for best buy and have been doing all this for about 3 years, for other companies as well, nothing compares to the directed products as far as reliability, but i am curious on ur product i have not heard anything good about this brand, but hey could be that every one i have seen people bring me used ones
    Last edited by keegur; 01-02-2010 at 07:08 PM.

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    Registered User Impreza2.0's Avatar
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    Cool to hear you have a good system that you are happy with.

    I am not here to compare my system to others', or to make negative remarks about others' systems, only to document the installation and what parts are required beyond included accessories.

    I purchased two DEI window controllers (522 type w/ venting), a trunk solenoid (18lb), a pair of SuperTones, and a set of NR-G key-lock hood pins after posting last night. This will add window roll up control for the front and rear door windows, front and rear control will be individual on the remote, all 4 will roll up during arm, will vent 1/2" over 95 degrees, and can be remotely opened or closed individually (front or rear). The trunk release will add a button in the coinbox (I have to figure out how to get it in along with the Hallman RX knob), and will automate trunk release. I am considering a hood release solenoid and piston risers by Spring-time. I don't know if there is room. I am using 4 118db SuperTones total on a mounting bar behind the upper grille. A solenoid would have to hide right next to the headlight. I will figure it out...
    that's what this writeup is about... unique solutions and a unique system.

    I recently bought a big slew of LED exterior lamps for the tails, turns, parking and "lane indicators" in the Morettes, those will get installed at the same time as the alarm/starter.

    Input is helpful, just remember that I am not here to compare alarms. How you may have solved fitment issues, now that's a good thing to add in........

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    Quote Originally Posted by Impreza2.0 View Post
    Cool to hear you have a good system that you are happy with.

    I am not here to compare my system to others', or to make negative remarks about others' systems, only to document the installation and what parts are required beyond included accessories.

    I purchased two DEI window controllers (522 type w/ venting), a trunk solenoid (18lb), a pair of SuperTones, and a set of NR-G key-lock hood pins after posting last night. This will add window roll up control for the front and rear door windows, front and rear control will be individual on the remote, all 4 will roll up during arm, will vent 1/2" over 95 degrees, and can be remotely opened or closed individually (front or rear). The trunk release will add a button in the coinbox (I have to figure out how to get it in along with the Hallman RX knob), and will automate trunk release. I am considering a hood release solenoid and piston risers by Spring-time. I don't know if there is room. I am using 4 118db SuperTones total on a mounting bar behind the upper grille. A solenoid would have to hide right next to the headlight. I will figure it out...
    that's what this writeup is about... unique solutions and a unique system.

    I recently bought a big slew of LED exterior lamps for the tails, turns, parking and "lane indicators" in the Morettes, those will get installed at the same time as the alarm/starter.

    Input is helpful, just remember that I am not here to compare alarms. How you may have solved fitment issues, now that's a good thing to add in........

    oh no sorry if it sounded like i was comparing im actually really curious not comparing, its always a good thing to hear feedback on other companies so there is not a monopoly out there

    i will say with the trunk solenoid buttons, they are hideous try to find a different button that you may be able to add to a factory blank out plate to make it seem more factory, like rig up a switch behind a blank out plate so you can push the blank out plate as a very clean switch, or just a different switch to mount in the same spot u are mounting,

    just oe question, why are you adding the release button?i dont know what year your car is or how the interior looks but if you already have a trunk release on the interior why add another
    Last edited by keegur; 01-03-2010 at 05:44 PM.

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    You list your window modules from DEI as the 522 model... and a trunk seloniod...the seloniod is a 522T the window modules (sounds like they are two window up and down) are 530T.

    would like to ask what your reasoning for adding the 4 super tones? aside from being really annoying and pissing off anyone within earshot when it goes off?

    I am curious to see what the end problems you have (if any with the system) we have installed a couple of the 502's in the past and have had nothing but problems with them.

    Good luck with the install.

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    You are correct. My window controllers are 530T, I have two of those, and an AutoLoc trunk solenoid (different part number arrangement from DEI entirely). The 522T was a mistype.

    I will be snapping a few pics, as the wire quantity is astounding, being this thing has so many sensor, connectors, and the three external brains... it's nutty huge. 144 wires to be used for this install.

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    make sure you have the proper interface/bypass module for the remote start interface. this may also save you form having to use as many of those wires.

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    Quote Originally Posted by It Hertz View Post
    make sure you have the proper interface/bypass module for the remote start interface. this may also save you form having to use as many of those wires.
    I already have everything for the job... doubtful I will need anything else.

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    More info:

    I installed the SuperTone horns. Holy mackeral! A few notes about them, F- being the least audible now that I tested the horns out from 10ft. distance (oops). They are loud. So loud in fact that you really have to respect them, or they will kick your butt. A fact about these hors, if you use the factory relay, they are equally loud, as they only draw 8 volts. You can supply 14.4 to them, they will only draw 8, even with a 2FD capacitor. Nevertheless, the factory horn location on the vertical bumper beam in the center of the grille is almost made for a relay. I replaced the Bosch 30A that came with the horns with an REC 40A waterproof piece with a metal bracket. The Bosch pieces are reliable, but they are all plastic. The weather here doesn't like plastic engine compartment bits. Replacing it with the relay with metal mounting tab means it will stay put. The waterproof housing is peace of mind, the higher switching amperage means solid voltage transfer and durability.

    As for the alarm. It is much better thought out than the Honda units I used for years at the Acura dealership. The units we had were DEI Viper 500. At the time, they were the height of technology. The 600 was released in my last year. Window wollup and remote start were such massive novelties.

    Now we think we need it... so...

    On to the alarm system.

    It is exactly identical to the 5900 series as far as connection. There are bars of connector terminals along each side of a 'brain', which is about the size of a 2x25w amplifier. It is housed in poly w/ tasteful decals. Entering the housing is impossible without breaking it, it is thermally bonded into one piece, with a service port and a CANBUS utility port. The service port is a panel which has various pin switches for sensing and sender polarities, and a tach-learning wire loop. The ign. wires are on one harness, the doors on another, each anti-theft sensor has it's own plug, so it is straightforward, and any parts that could be faulty can be replaced without removal of the entire system. Let's say you kick your dashboard in rage and smash your thermistor head. You can get another one for $5, as this is an honest manufacturer and doesn't gouge on prices for replacement parts (hmmm...). The window output is easy to integrate into the DEI 530Ts, each pair of windows gets it's own button on the remote, and they can be adjusted up or down any old way, they will vent at 95 degrees (or a different preset temp, whatever), and roll up from vent upon first sensor violation. Since we have antitheft lock switches in our cars (studied to be the most resistant shape to coat hangers, slimjims, etc.), we can use this feature without worry.

    The Z-Pass keypad mounts easily above the second gauge in the a-pillar, and there is an exact place for the antenna above that. Together, they create an octagon frame of electronics around the windshield, and do not obscure vision, but definitely further complete the fighter-jet appearance of the STi/WRX interior. I won't go into the location of my sensors or main unit, but the window 'brains' are going in the kick panel areas.

    In regard to the comment about voltage sensing and how many wires are involved, a lot of the number is redundant, and any experienced alarm installer knows that there are about 16 wires that really matter, After that proprietary sensor and relay wiring is not really part of the count, since most of that comes prewired, or is so simple and we've made so many that , well , who cares...

    I think I might have installed 2000 starter kill relay/keyless entry OEM systems in my lifetime. All in only 3 models of car, until I got to Sazam's in Philly (Mad Mike... um, you know this guy?) we put our cigarettes out in the same corner in the alley...

    I doubt you will have to help with this.

    If you have decabled your hood and gas door release, and have a solenoid on them, please post up some pics. I might get it done before you can get pics up, but they would be helpful and fun. I want to hide the solenoids, use some of the cable and weld it to the solenoid pins, so that the interior hood release handle can be replaced with my BC knob, and the floor pulls can be covered with an Al panel. Trunk release is so obvious... replacing the factory solenoid is pretty simple, the mount is there, the wires even have the right terminals on them... swappy...

    I guess the coolest thing I could do for this thread is to make a video of the system when it is totally done.

    I will be doing the primary and secondary power harness and the starter kill today. This means I get horn, siren, dome lamp security/supervision, and possibly interior temperature on remote. I will also be installing some NRG carbon hood lock pins and a pin switch under the hood... and it is about -1 outside right now.

    I will edit this post with some results. The hood locks should take about 30 minutes.

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    Got Con1 completed (first and primary power/ignition integration harness), and most of CON2 (door lock pulse, brake sensor, light output, siren output...

    I didn't get to get the siren hooked up (thank goodness), and the system rearms then sets itself off repeatedly, since the door arming circuits are incomplete. I unhooked the power connector for now, so tomorrow I will wire in the hood pin and siren simultaneously, get the door locks going, and bolt the trunk solenoid in place. The factory one seems pretty sad, the remote can barely get it popped on it, whereas this thing could pull the lock lever out of the assembly. It ought to be simple, nothing worth mentioning other than it is done when it finally is.

    At that point, I will rewrite most of this, so don't quote me...

    As of now I get a good feeling about quality of construction. It is solid as heck. It is totally packed with parts, and nothing is shoddy. It also has nothing redundant other than door lock/light output and door open/closed pin sensing. It's nice not to have to hide a bundle of wire along with this. It just replaces the OEM brain, it's connectors are a little hairy to press into place above the fuse housing, but once in, it is not visible, wire cannot be reached, and the system is designed to throw out an offender. If the system is destroyed, the ignition is rendered useless without knowledge of the wiring. As for the ignition wiring, it fit back into the glossy brown weird plastic it came with, and it is really impossible to tell what is alarm and what is Subaru. The siren fits into a spot that is like it was made for it, and the lengths of wire included are absolutely perfect, excepting the absolutely rediculous amount of accessory wire included (6ft???) it only takes 2 ft. to build an alarm in, we all make a pile on the floor before we even get under the dash, excepting the trigger wires, and on this one, everything is proprietary except trunk, hood pin, and doors, which are standard ground switch sensor wires.

    I think the reason the system is so expensive is getting them through customs. They are cheap when refurbished ($300 or so on eBay), but like $400? That is without windows or trunk and hood. It has come to about $650 with hood locks (coming any time now... USPS is weird here).

    I am not looking forward to sitting in the snow, freezing until the heat finally gets going... Tied up and covered for now, more after 9am.

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    Day 2 on this, being 16 degrees this morning makes me think I am not going to get a lot done today, but at least the trunk solenoid can be mounted, and it's wires run. It will give me a chance to grab a line off of the trunk pin, and maybe while I am back there I can polish up a few spots that just need cleaning.

    Last night I ordered a set of NRG Innovations hood pistons. Let me say that our hood prop is a real champion. Heavy steel, fine for what it does, but it is doing it right in the way of everything. I don't mind downgrading to Aluminum for the upgrade in looks and convenience of entry to the engine.

    For those with trunk release solenoids, did you use the glove comp. for that, or put it on the dash? Japanese customs dictate that it be in reach of the driver, but Subaru put a lever on the floor. Maybe replace the lever with the button... I'll put some designs together for that.

    Looking forward to floor grids and hood locks... and cold...

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