Installing Innovative LC-1 Wideband - Need a Little Help
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This is a discussion on Installing Innovative LC-1 Wideband - Need a Little Help within the Interior Mods forums, part of the Tech & Modifying & General Repairs category; Thanks for stopping in. I bought a wideband the other day because I worry about A/F even on off-the-shelf maps. ...

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    Registered User 2:43AM's Avatar
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    Installing Innovative LC-1 Wideband - Need a Little Help

    Thanks for stopping in.

    I bought a wideband the other day because I worry about A/F even on off-the-shelf maps. Anyway, I have LC-1 mounted and 75% wired. Question is: what is the BEST wire to tap for power? The manual calls for switched +12V. I know I could use any wire when the key goes to "ON" or "ACC" for that purpose, but from what I gather, this power will initialize the LC-1 controller and preheat the O2 sensor. Therefore, I would not want +12V switched on "ACC". Is "ON" my only choice? Is there a wire that only goes hot once the engine is started?

    On a sidenote, do factory O2 sensors preheat when the key is "ON"? There's been many of times I had the key in this position while testing various electronics, starting ROMraider (connecting to ECU to configure), etc. I don't want to risk burning up the sensors! I guess I never really thought about it until now!

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    Admiral Ackbar mycologist's Avatar
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    I used this one for my boost gauge. You can also use one of the fuses, I don't know which though.

    Gauge Installation Electrical Wiring Tips and Pics Defi and Others - NASIOC
    "From a little spark may burst a mighty flame." - Dante
    "The stitch is lost unless the thread is knotted." - Italian proverb

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    Registered User 2:43AM's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by mycologist View Post
    I used this one for my boost gauge. You can also use one of the fuses, I don't know which though.

    Gauge Installation Electrical Wiring Tips and Pics Defi and Others - NASIOC
    That works...for gauges. But the O2 sensor has a heater that needs power, from what I gather, ONLY when the engine is running. If the O2 sensor is energized when the key is in the "ON" position, then the heater could possibly burn up if you move the key to the "ON" position, but do not start the engine.

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    Registered User 2:43AM's Avatar
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    I contacted Innovative Motorsports and they recommend using a 12V source that goes hot from ACC or ON. So that settles that question!

    I asked also if the O2 sensor would burn up if the key is in the ON position and the engine is not running. The tech rep said "no, the O2 sensor would heat up to its operating temp and work as if the engine were running."

    But I would think the heater would stay 100% since no exhaust gases are heating it up to operating temp. Therefore, would that shorten the life of the O2 sensor?

    Through a series of four emails and no matter how I rephrased the question, it boils down to the O2 sensor will be OK if connected to a normal, switched 12V source. As always, I am overthinking the situation.

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    Admiral Ackbar mycologist's Avatar
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    I see, sorry I kind of missed what you were actually asking. I don't think you are going to find such a wire, so I would use the on one in the link.
    "From a little spark may burst a mighty flame." - Dante
    "The stitch is lost unless the thread is knotted." - Italian proverb

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    Registered User 2:43AM's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by mycologist View Post
    I see, sorry I kind of missed what you were actually asking. I don't think you are going to find such a wire, so I would use the on one in the link.
    10-4. The link you sent definitely helps. I think it'll be a lot easier to tie into a wire behind the radio rather than under the steering wheel! Thanks!

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    Admiral Ackbar mycologist's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 2:43AM View Post
    10-4. The link you sent definitely helps. I think it'll be a lot easier to tie into a wire behind the radio rather than under the steering wheel! Thanks!
    I tied in and fed them to a strip under the clock area - it makes future installs super easy. I need to do the LC-1 I have soon - the directions were picky about the wiring and grounding or something IIRC.
    "From a little spark may burst a mighty flame." - Dante
    "The stitch is lost unless the thread is knotted." - Italian proverb

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    Quote Originally Posted by mycologist View Post
    I tied in and fed them to a strip under the clock area - it makes future installs super easy. I need to do the LC-1 I have soon - the directions were picky about the wiring and grounding or something IIRC.
    There are a lot of wires, but it's not that bad. The only confusing this regards grounding properly and the use of the calibration pushbutton and LED.

    Let me know if you need help. At least we have one thing figured out...the RED, power wire (LC-1) goes to GREEN wire on the A/C harness. At least that's what I am going to try!

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    UPDATE: I finished installing my LC-1 and DB Gauge install last night. Though it was a pain in the a$$, everything works great, right down to the pushbutton/LED calibration feature. I haven't connected to my laptop yet, but I plan on it once I get another USB-to-serial adapter. DB gauge is nice too. I just need a pod to put it in now.

    There are a lot of wires to snake in and solder in. All of my connections were soldered, and I made a nice grounding bracket for all the negative terminals. Tying into the wires in the radio and A/C harness is the easiest, though I had to extend the wires for the gauge, since it travels across the dash to where a single or double pillar pod will be in the future.

    Green/Orange Stripe Wire is OK for Switched Power. No problems.

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