Autometer Boost Gauge Wiring
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This is a discussion on Autometer Boost Gauge Wiring within the Interior Mods forums, part of the Tech & Modifying & General Repairs category; Okay, so I recently installed an Autometer (ESX if that makes a difference) mechanical boost gauge on the steering column ...

  1. #1
    Registered User Pactin's Avatar
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    Autometer Boost Gauge Wiring

    Okay, so I recently installed an Autometer (ESX if that makes a difference) mechanical boost gauge on the steering column (right). The gauge's mechanical part is working. The only problem I face now is wiring the light.

    Its not so much where to wire it (i'll probly go with stereo wiring). Its how to actually tap the stereo power. How would I go about actually splicing the wires? Should I use a splicing nut-cap or just strip, twist and e.tape it?

    (ps. soldering is not an option as I've no solder tool).

    * on another note, is it normal for the needle to return to "start-up" vacuum after accelerator has been released during driving?
    **lastly where should the needle lie in the vacuum area? mine sits around -19 to -18 on start up.

    TIA
    --Justin

    Hawk-Eye Alliance #128

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  3. #2
    Registered User Pactin's Avatar
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    Does anyone know?
    --Justin

    Hawk-Eye Alliance #128

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    Registered User vttk_mig69's Avatar
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    insted of cutting into the stereo wiring i would go through the ciggeret ligher/12volt power outlet or take a single wire from the batt. fuse it (under hood) 10 or 15 amp should work and then ground the other to firewall or some screw or bolt under the dash. (make sure its a solid ground chip away a lil paint for good contact)

    Connect the WHITE light wire to dash lighting circuit or other 12V source.
    Connect the BLACK light wire to a good engine ground. (which applicable

    and yes the gauge should be in vacc. untill the turbo spools up and creates boost.

  5. #4
    "Supreme Subaphile Extraordinairre" ninefourteener's Avatar
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    3 wires, not two.

    Use the stereo, it's easier, and you can always add more gauges later.

    Don't "cut" the stereo wires, strip a 1/2 inch piece so that you can splice another wire (or wires) in.

    Black will match up..... black goes black.

    Your RED stereo wire is your lights.
    Your ORANGE stereo wire is your power.

    You should run "about" -15 at idle.

    Stock turbo, you should boost between 13 and 14 psi.

    Good luck.
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  6. #5
    Registered User Pactin's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by ninefourteener View Post

    Don't "cut" the stereo wires, strip a 1/2 inch piece so that you can splice another wire (or wires) in.
    so just, strip that 1/2" area and slide my gauge wire into the insulation as well and tape off?

    Quote Originally Posted by ninefourteener View Post
    Your RED stereo wire is your lights.
    Your ORANGE stereo wire is your power.
    so which one do I tap?

    Quote Originally Posted by ninefourteener View Post
    You should run "about" -15 at idle.

    Stock turbo, you should boost between 13 and 14 psi.
    strange, on idle the needle sits at about -19.
    And going through the gears the needle shudders around 5-8 psi, do you think I have some kind of leak in the line? does heat adversely affect the vacuum line in any way?

    sorry for all the questions
    --Justin

    Hawk-Eye Alliance #128

  7. #6
    Registered User »ja(v)es«'s Avatar
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    go with the orange one.this means every time you will turn your lights on the gauge light go on to.red wire is a constant 12v witch means that the light would always be on.
    2003 wrx Wagon
    1993 Civic coupe type-R

  8. #7
    Registered User Pactin's Avatar
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    thanks »ja(v)es«
    --Justin

    Hawk-Eye Alliance #128

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