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This is a discussion on Blue LED Conversion within the Interior Mods forums, part of the Tech & Modifying & General Repairs category; Originally Posted by 805 STi A good question: When you open the insturment cluster up, is there LED's that light ...

  1. #46
    Registered User Impreza2.0's Avatar
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    Nov 2008
    Quote Originally Posted by 805 STi View Post
    A good question:
    When you open the insturment cluster up, is there LED's that light up the Odometer, or is that a digital display that will need to be custom made/bought to the color desired?

    ROFL @ Light show in the rain.
    It's (the ODO lamp) just another single bulb with a socket that snaps into the back of the cluster. It is easily accessible. You should have no trouble with it at all. Because of the nature of LCD, the natural color of the crystal solution being gold, blue is OK, but green is closer to the gold in the chromic scale (they are closer on the rainbow), so the green will be a little bit brighter than the blue. If you use a white LED, it will be a hazy gray/tan with black digits. The blue LEDs are fine, that's what I use in my own car.
    I have no trouble reading it, day or night.

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  3. #47
    Registered User Impreza2.0's Avatar
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    Nov 2008
    Quote Originally Posted by JMikolich View Post
    okay well i pulled the HVAC Cluster.

    4 black screws to separate it from the Interior Trim...

    Then 5 silver screws to pull out the PCB with the dials on it, then 3 small retaining clips to separate the dial into pieces.. but now there is not a replaceable LED??!??!?

    Unless I"m looking in the wrong spot... i see nothing that is replaceable, a see a few SMD LED's but ?!?!?!?!?

    Anyone have any insight? is it under the big silver ring? would a pic help?

    Car is an 06 STI btw

    EDIT: Okay so it is 3 white Surface mounted LED's with one amber LED to illuminate the dial position,
    This makes me wonder how to get red, since there is obviously a green film then on the actual dial... hmm

    Cut a piece of 150G wet/dry sandpaper into six or seven 2mm x 2mm squares, and get a tube of SuperGlue type adhesive (Cyanoacrylate adhesive).

    Aquire a regular pencil with a pink eraser on the end (the ol' yellow #2 pencils everyone knows and loves for about 5 minutes until they dull and send you to the sharpener again).

    The few pieces of 2x2mm sandpaper should have left you plenty of sandpaper in it's whole form, use that to reduce the diameter of the eraser's tip to 2mmx2mm square. You can do this much faster with an X-Acto or hobby razor knife, but the idea is to create a stylus with a 2x2mm end, and glue a piece of sandpaper to it.

    Very carefully sand away the colored portion of the dial backing until you can see clear light through it. It is very easy to overdo it, and this is scary to try, but it definitely works. Very well, at that.

    Once you have the majority of the green film scraped out, you can gently remove the remaining edges or missed streaks with the tip of a needle, but again, be gentle, patient, careful... replacing these is a pain in the rear end.

    After the film is gone, and you can see only clear white light through it, you can sand again, gently, lightly, to even the surfaces. This will allow even light transmission, and a professional OEM look.

    Once complete, any LED color will show it's true wavelength, and could possibly be a bit bright, or hotspot.

    At your local model/craft supply shop, you can get films for modelmaking which are milky to different degrees. These can be cut and placed in the dials as diffusers, to slightly spread and reduce the volume of intensity.

    Because you now have clear dial markers, you can really do anything that you imagine, even multiple colors (faded blue to red for the hot/cold potentiometer, etc.).

    Another option is stage gels, expensive, but heat resistant, waterproof, and very tough. This can be used in layers also, and some are available with a "matte" finish, or with various types of diffusion patterns.
    Last edited by Impreza2.0; 08-11-2009 at 04:19 PM. Reason: spelling is obviously not my fort'e.

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