75 versus 90 amp alternator - Page 2
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This is a discussion on 75 versus 90 amp alternator within the General Maintenance, Troubleshooting & Accidents. forums, part of the Tech & Modifying & General Repairs category; There's also always this as an option that might be cheaper than a new dealer part: http://www.iaperformance.com/specials.asp They usually have ...

  1. #16

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  3. #17
    Banned dark_rex's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Timdog1650
    There's also always this as an option that might be cheaper than a new dealer part:

    http://www.iaperformance.com/specials.asp

    They usually have a JDM takeoff for cheap.

    i saw those, i'm just wondering how many miles they've logged... i was tempted, but i got a brand new one for less, so i decided not to do it.

    dR

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    Banned dark_rex's Avatar
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    Banned dark_rex's Avatar
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    had the alternator replaced and my flickering guages and headlights stopped.

    rather than get killed by subaru, i got a USA Industries part, #A2890 and paid =much less, then had it installed for a case of beer.. so far so good!!!

    it's worth noting the alternator is a piece of cake to replace. took about 15mins.

    dR

  7. #21
    Banned dark_rex's Avatar
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    I never came back to this thread, and i should have.

    about 3 weeks after i installed the USA, the alt. failed. we considered it was defective, so we got another one, and swapped them out. 4 weeks or so later, that one started acting up. never died compeltely, but i was getting low readings at idle, and my abs light kept coming on. (which means low power. the car will cut power from the abs first to conserve juice)

    at this point, i was tired of this damned alternator issue, and started wondering if any of my "stellar" electrical work was causing a short. i returned the second USA alternator, and got a subaru unit new (rebuilt). from that point on, i had no problems. the lights didn't flicker as much, but still did a little on certain occassions.

    I'm guessing i didn't have a short, and the USA units were both defective. just FYI.

    a couple of things i found out along the way

    -the subaru unit is a mitsubishi part. i don't have the number
    -the aftermarket unit had a plastic pulley rather than the suby metal one...
    -i developed a squeak in my ac belt right after this all happened (related?)


    dR

  8. #22
    Registered User madmaxwrx's Avatar
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    same problem

    that sucks i have the same problem with the dimming of the lights as soon and the ac turns on the headlights dim not the fogs tho so was it worth replacing the alt. or not?

  9. #23
    Resident meany-rator 06wrx4me's Avatar
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    Sadly I'm in this boat as well. About 4 months ago my lights and gauges started flickering pretty badly especially with the AC compressor running in defrost mode or AC on in summer time. Also when I let the car sit for a week without driving it, the battery would barely crank it over. So I'm not sure if the battery is out and the alternator is having to do all of the work, or both are weak and need attention. Maybe I'll test them tomorrow.
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  10. #24
    Registered User DstrbdTech's Avatar
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    The lights in my Sentra dim when the Two Electric Radiator fans kick on at idle. If I didn't see the change in lighting level I wouldn't have even noticed though.

  11. #25
    Registered User Acrdys's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by PolarisSnT View Post
    Is it normal for the cars headlights to dim at idle and then when the revs raise the headlights brighten up? I used to think it was becuse my passenger side fog light was going out and then when it finally blew the dimming went away. Now after a couple weeks of driving with the fog lights off(havent replaced it yet and dont want only one fog light on) the dimming seems to have returned. Any thoughts?
    yeah, happens when I sort of bog the engine going in my garage backwards
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  12. #26
    Registered User indytruckboy's Avatar
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    so...............

    autozone.....sti altenator is cheaper, based on the 2005 model year. #11058 sti alt is $125, the wrx is $261, part #13890. both lifetime warranty.
    I work on vehicles that make 650hp and 2400ft/lbs.

  13. #27
    Resident meany-rator 06wrx4me's Avatar
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    I think its my battery. Tested the alternator today, and it was puttin out 14.06 V into the battery. Then shut the car down and immediately tested it. 12.9V Waited 30 min and tested again 12.6V. 10 min later 12.5v volts. Also when its cold in the morning it struggles to start her up so I bet its goin. Didn't have the tools to load test the battery so ...


    I talked the other day withe the Electrical Engineer at work, and he was saying the CA summers kill batteries and a typical car battery lasts 2-3 years around here.

    I'm right in that range, so now the question is....lightweight racing battery, or stock replacement?
    2014 Ford Fiesta ST

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