40k mile service??

[blackboost]

What do I really need to do at this point? I've changed the air filter and fuel filter, but I haven't done anything to the brakes, sparkplugs, radiator fluids etc. I justified not performing the complete 30k service after reading lots of posts mentioning how the dealerships charge lots for unimportant services. Thanks

[perfusionista]

As you can see, the main items on a 30k service (apart from the usual oil/filter change) are changing the spark plugs (apparently a real PITA job), air filter, fuel filter (which you've got covered) and flushing the coolant and brake fluid. Because I'm a lazy bugger and just couldn't face the prospect of doing the plugs, my dealer charged me $354 plus $125 in parts. Most of the stuff on the list was "inspection"...
On balance, it might be worth paying to have the plugs changed and doing the rest yourself.

[SD_GR]

The plugs are not changed at 30K.

[creditcards]

yeah, i still have my stock spark plugs and it's running strong at 40k.

[perfusionista]

Sorry, so busy getting the chart posted I didn't look at it properly You're absolutely right, that's for the N/A 2.5L . You can always learn something useful on ClubWRX, even if it's that you're an idiot...

[SD_GR]

I read the wrong chart all the time too!

[scoobaru]

As you can see, the main items on a 30k service (apart from the usual oil/filter change) are changing the spark plugs (apparently a real PITA job), air filter, fuel filter (which you've got covered) and flushing the coolant and brake fluid. Because I'm a lazy bugger and just couldn't face the prospect of doing the plugs, my dealer charged me $354 plus $125 in parts. Most of the stuff on the list was "inspection"...
On balance, it might be worth paying to have the plugs changed and doing the rest yourself.

sorry dude if they charged you that much for plug install you got ****ed, give me a call id do it for 40 bucks. **** took me 10 minutes

[yo vanilla]

i do all my own maintenance; since i work in hte car business i have access to lifts etc and that makes it really easy i did change my plugs at 28K; they say they last till 60 but there was a plenty of wear on them and a definite increase in smoothness after the job was done. i changed the coolant, fuel filter, and air filter as well, and did a brake maintenance. of course oil change too; i changed trans and diff at 19K so i'll do that again this spring. if you have a driveway and some simple tools, this is all easily done and will save you a good $200 as opposed to a dealership job.

changing the spark plugs is so cake. i was worried about it myself, after reading a few posts about how you need swivel sockets and have to remove the battery, washer reservior and air box... it's SO EASY. it can be done in your driveway in less than a half hour without the swivels, don't bother with those. get a 3/8" ratched, a 10mm, 12mm, and spark plug socket and a few extensions. remove the battery, unbolt the reservoir and prop it out of the way. take the 12mm and unbolt the coil packs from the engine; there's just enough room to get the ratchet down there. same with the spark plugs; connect the spark plug socket to the 3" extension, set it in place on the plug, and then attach the ratchet. remove, replace

the coolant gets drained by first opening the radiator cap (which is not on the radiator btw, it's on the coolant reservoir by the turbo) and then loosening the drain plug on the bottom of the radiator, passenger side. get yourself a piece of rubber hose from the parts store (iirc 1/4") and connect it to the drain hole on that plug you just loosened (but didn't remove completely). drain, takes an hour or less to get it all out (i got about 80% of my old fluid out, more than usual actually and this is normal). unbolt your coolant overflow tank (2 10mm bolts) and wash it out). have the car hot before you start so the thermostat is open.

USE JAPANESE COOLANT. i did my research, do not use european or american coolant. all 3 continents use a different mix of chemicals and they all use different materials in the rubber seals i.e. water pump seals. subaru or toyota coolant are the exact same thing and they are cheap, i paid around $11 for a gallon at the dealer and that's all you need. get a bottle of the coolant conditioner, it's under $2. you may want to get a radiator funnel; they screw directly onto the radiator and prevent spills while also aiding in the burping process.

now, fill hte radiator with the new coolant (you just mixed it 50/50 with water) and start the car with the heat on hot and high. when the level goes down, fill hte funnel again. you want coolant in the funnel at all times to prevent air from getting in the system. rev the engine ~3000rpms steadily, let go, and you should see an air bubble "burp". you'll do this for around 15 minutes at least; you need the thermostat to open and let the coolant flow all the way through. you're finished when there are no more burps and the lower radiator hose is hot (meaning the thermostat is open). if you get any weird temp problems while driving i.e. a high temp then there is air in the system still.

anything else? i use mobil1 and subaru filters because it's really good stuff and redline fluids for the trans/diff because i'm anal and not cheap. it is or is near the best, you decide.

[yo vanilla]

a few more thoughts for my book lol: don't use platinum plugs. use either ngk coppers or iridiums (nkg makes the oem plugs). also some trivia on mobil1: the engineers for the C5 corvette found that by equipping the engine with mobil1 from the factory saved them $500 per car. this was because with conventional oil, the engine temps were hot enough to require an outboard oil cooler. one of the porsche reps told me this yesterday; good to hear i've been making good oil choices all this time