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Changed the spark plugs

3K views 19 replies 8 participants last post by  psychobooe 
#1 ·
I finally changed my spark plugs tonight at 42k miles. I love my WRX as much as anyone can love an inanimate object, and I love the beautiful EJ20 that comes in it. However, that flat four is a super pain in the ass to change spark plugs on. Everything went relatively smoothly, but it still took 2 hours. Sorry, I just had to rant a little. By the way, I went with the Iridium NGK one step colder (BKR7EIX-11) and they are awesome. I could tell a huge difference in response just in the few miles driving around tonight.

psycho
 
#4 ·
So...... gonna help those of us who haven't done it and tell us the trouble spots? :)
 
#5 ·
A lot of people use a universal joint to angle the socket in, but I can do it quicker without it. I prefer to use a spark plug socket and a 3" extension. The combo that I have fits perfectly inside the frame rail. I just find it easier to feel what I'm doing without the uv joint. Also there's a tutorial around here somewhere. I had to change mine at least 3 times in a couple of days trying to diagnose a problem. Just take your time and don't strip/break/cross-thread anything and your good. :D
 
#6 ·
I agree, a spark plug socket and a 3" socket and a 3/8" rachet work perfect. It comes out right at the edge of the block. I don't like the jointed extension because I can't feel how much torque I'm putting on the spark plug and I don't wanna break the damn thing off. So, my advice is a spark plug socket, a 3" extension, and a 3/8" rachet and you should be good to go on all sides. By the way, you have to take off the battery, move the washer bottle, and take off the air box.
 
#7 ·
And actually people always say how much of a pain they are, but I think that they are quite easy to get to. Maybe not as easy as most fwd i-4s but much easier than a V8 crammed 6 feet under the cowl. The main thing is having the right sockets/extensions.
 
#10 ·
a write up would be nice. I have heard you have to remove the manifold. I am going to do mine next weekend when i change the uppipe. Only removing the airbox/batt/washer bottle. would be ideal. Thanks for the info.
 
#12 ·
psychobooe said:
You just have to go into it knowing that you have to take out the battery/washer bottle/air box. Once they're out of the way, it's pretty easy.
Exactly, once those are all off they're very easy to get to, all you have to do is unscrew a bolt on each of the coilpacks and pull them out, then stick the spark plug socket in and take the plugs out, you'll need a small extension to get all the way in there. The coil pack on the drivers side rear can be a little pain to get out cuz its pretty close to the frame, but if you wiggle it around enough you can get it out. I was surprised at how easy it was, tho coming from my old car anything is easier, because on my old car (was a V6 Sebring) you had to take off the whole upper intake plenum just to get to the rear 3 plugs :thumbdown

Its much easier on this car. AND you never have to worry about which plug wire goes back on which plug, cuz there are none! :)
 
#13 ·
psychobooe said:
I finally changed my spark plugs tonight at 42k miles. I love my WRX as much as anyone can love an inanimate object, and I love the beautiful EJ20 that comes in it. However, that flat four is a super pain in the ass to change spark plugs on. Everything went relatively smoothly, but it still took 2 hours. Sorry, I just had to rant a little. By the way, I went with the Iridium NGK one step colder (BKR7EIX-11) and they are awesome. I could tell a huge difference in response just in the few miles driving around tonight.

psycho
Where did you get them and how much did you pay for them?
 
#17 ·
The ones I bought from JSC Speed were properly gapped. As far as when to go one step colder, I've heard that for every 100 hp above stock you should go one step colder. However, I have Cobb Stage 2 plus an uppipe and silicon hoses, and I went one step colder. I think that you should probably have at least a complete exhaust before going one step colder.
 
#19 ·
psychobooe said:
The ones I bought from JSC Speed were properly gapped. As far as when to go one step colder, I've heard that for every 100 hp above stock you should go one step colder. However, I have Cobb Stage 2 plus an uppipe and silicon hoses, and I went one step colder. I think that you should probably have at least a complete exhaust before going one step colder.
I got a helix up/down full exhaust, and engine management tuned up pretty tight. I am just tryin to figure out if going colder is detrimental if your not running a more powerful engine.
 
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