1st oil change.
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This is a discussion on 1st oil change. within the General Maintenance, Troubleshooting & Accidents. forums, part of the Tech & Modifying & General Repairs category; I have a question about the initial oil change and switching to Mobil 1. With the exception of the rotaries ...

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    1st oil change.

    I have a question about the initial oil change and switching to Mobil 1. With the exception of the rotaries I have owned, I have used Mobil 1 almost exclusively. My particular issue here is that I will be going on a trip from New Jersey to Florida at just about the 1,000 mile mark. I was thinking that I should change my oil just before I go on the trip (probably somewhere between 950 and 1050 miles from brand new). I also wanted to switch from the oil that Subaru uses for Mobil 1. Does anyone know of any issues with switching so soon, and the potential effects of a long trip to Florida so soon after such a switch (with much time at 80 to 90 MPH)? Thanks.....

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    Administrator Trainrex's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 9000RPMan
    I have a question about the initial oil change and switching to Mobil 1. With the exception of the rotaries I have owned, I have used Mobil 1 almost exclusively. My particular issue here is that I will be going on a trip from New Jersey to Florida at just about the 1,000 mile mark. I was thinking that I should change my oil just before I go on the trip (probably somewhere between 950 and 1050 miles from brand new). I also wanted to switch from the oil that Subaru uses for Mobil 1. Does anyone know of any issues with switching so soon, and the potential effects of a long trip to Florida so soon after such a switch (with much time at 80 to 90 MPH)? Thanks.....
    Much of what I've heard is rumor, and what I say next is regurgitated info. I have no concrete long term proof, but I heard you should wait until approx. 10k to switch to synthetic on a motor that wasn't started with it. Rumor has it, things won't seat correctly.

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    Registered User wrx&998rduck's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Trainrex
    Much of what I've heard is rumor, and what I say next is regurgitated info. I have no concrete long term proof, but I heard you should wait until approx. 10k to switch to synthetic on a motor that wasn't started with it. Rumor has it, things won't seat correctly.
    i have heard the same thing also, i am going to switch to mobil 1, @ 10k miles also

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    Registered User perfusionista's Avatar
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    Don't wait! That "no synthetic 'til 10k" is an old wive's tale.Once you're through the break-in, throw out that old oil and get the Mobil 1 in there. I've put M1 in my last four cars at the earliest chance, first service. 95,000 trouble-free miles on my old (Mexican built!) GTI, 54,000 trouble-free miles on my '02 WRX.

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    Registered User wrx&998rduck's Avatar
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    screw it next oil change im switching to mobil 1, i have heard that the oil change intervals are alot longer, but you have to check the level from time to time, do you all agree?

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    Registered User Darrell's Avatar
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    FWIW, I switched to Mobil 1 5W-30 last week at 1300 miles.
    Mine: '05 PSM WRX 5MT Sport Wagon, Cobb AP
    Wife's: '05 SRR 2.5RS 5MT Sport Wagon

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    Registered User perfusionista's Avatar
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    I go the prescribed 7500 miles between changes. I check the oil weekly and sometimes need to drop in a pint between changes, but then I'm doing >2000 miles a month.

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    The ONLY reason why every new engine in every car IS NOT shipped with synthetic is cost. Period. Imagine the cost to a company going from 30-40 CENTS per quart to upwards of 2 DOLLARS in all the cars built. The story with leaking seals is bull****. Plus, if the "break in or lack thereof theory was correct,changing the oil at 1000 miles using petro oil would also inhibit break in due to the oils ADDITIVE package, mainly in the form of friction reducers that will degrade long before the oil. All high end cars come from the factory with Mobile 1 0W/30. If the manufacturers were worried they would treat a new engine like an aircraft piston engine-utilizing non detergent mineral oil initially with recommended power settings. Which usually are 75% power at cruise and always 100% fpor takeoff and climb. Sleeved cylinders (steel bores) or Nikasil blocks are honed to promote ring seating. The only combination that is difficult to breakin are chromium plated bores (very,very hard) and pistons with ductile iron rings-aircraft use only.I've immediately switched to synthetic at the first change interval on 16 new vehicles I have owned and never had a single problem. Thinkabout it-if synthetic is so slippery-the motor would never wear out. Plus the most important thing is the FACTORY owners manual does NOT prohibit or warn about the use-they just do not want extended change intervals. Relax.
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