Oil drain plug will NOT stop leaking
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This is a discussion on Oil drain plug will NOT stop leaking within the General Maintenance, Troubleshooting & Accidents. forums, part of the Tech & Modifying & General Repairs category; It was leaking a while ago, so I got a load of Subaru crush washers from the dealership thinking that ...

  1. #1
    Subaru Newb MainFrame's Avatar
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    Thumbs down Oil drain plug will NOT stop leaking

    It was leaking a while ago, so I got a load of Subaru crush washers from the dealership thinking that would help. I was wrong.
    Last edited by MainFrame; 08-30-2008 at 07:15 PM.

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    Registered User mourning_air's Avatar
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    Make sure you only have one crush washer on there, sometimes an old one will look like part of the drain plug. Other than that, make sure it gets crushed when you tighten it, you can kind of feel it happen...
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    Subaru Newb MainFrame's Avatar
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    There's only one on there.. and I'm sure it's crushed, I got it on there pretty tight because it's been pissing me off. I don't want to get it too tight tho, in fear of stripping my oil pan..

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    He simply abides. SD_GR's Avatar
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    If you ever used the plug without a crush washer, or with a "used" crush washer, there's a remote chance you've stripped the threads by over-tightening, which would explain the leak.

    When you installed the crush washer, did you put the thin-ringed side toward the pan and the thick-ringed (larger diametre) side toward the bolt head?

    Are you sure the bolt itself is OK? Check the threads. Does it bind up at all when you screw it in by hand?

    Worst case DIY scenario is a new drain bolt and possibly a conventional copper washer, though it shouldn't come to that.

    Are you under warranty, by the way?
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    Registered User ryland's Avatar
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    Originally posted by mourning_air
    Make sure you only have one crush washer on there, sometimes an old one will look like part of the drain plug.
    Yeah, I'd check that ^

    I say that because I almost made that mistake once
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    Subaru Newb MainFrame's Avatar
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    Originally posted by SD_GR
    If you ever used the plug without a crush washer, or with a "used" crush washer, there's a remote chance you've stripped the threads by over-tightening, which would explain the leak.

    When you installed the crush washer, did you put the thin-ringed side toward the pan and the thick-ringed (larger diametre) side toward the bolt head?

    Are you sure the bolt itself is OK? Check the threads. Does it bind up at all when you screw it in by hand?

    Worst case DIY scenario is a new drain bolt and possibly a conventional copper washer, though it shouldn't come to that.

    Are you under warranty, by the way?

    My first few oil changes I failed to change the washer, so that might be the problem. I inspected the bolt last time I changed the oil and it looks fine, doesn't bind anywhere. I don't remember which way the washer was facing when I put it on there, but I've always put it on the same way the old one came off..

    It's not leaking too bad, but it is an annoyance to see a little puddle underneath where I park my car every time. I have almost 45k miles now, so it's not under warranty anymore.

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    Registered User 04blkWRX's Avatar
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    Maybe its time to pick up a Fumoto valve...they have their own gaskets...

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    He simply abides. SD_GR's Avatar
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    Yes, and you can ensure you'll never have to worry about the lever coming open accidentally by using a ring clip on the valve, so the lever is "locked" in place.

    Or, simply try switching to a $0,30 copper washer (non-crush, conventional type) and see how that goes for you.
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    I lied. I cheated. I bribed men to cover the crimes of other men. I am an accessory to murder. But the most damning thing of all... I think I can live with it. And if I had to do it all over again - I would. Benjamin Sisko
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    Registered User ShotgunTC88's Avatar
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    Ok, So hit me cause this sounds Ghetto.......

    Go to the hardware store and get some Plumbers Teflon tape and wrap the threads of the bolt.
    (MAX of 1-2 turns around the bolt)

    AND the crushwasher "rolled" part face's the head of the bolt.

    I would just go with the Fumoto and the Teflon


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    Subaru Newb MainFrame's Avatar
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    I was thinking about getting a fumoto.. but I was afraid it would catch on something and get ripped off. As you can see in the pic, my downpipe wrap wore in two, and I had to tie it off to keep it from coming off any further.

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    Registered User 04blkWRX's Avatar
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    Originally posted by MainFrame
    I was afraid it would catch on something and get ripped off.
    It doesn't stick out much farther than the drain plug...maybe 1/4", if that. The tab to open it sticks out 1/8-1/4" out of the side, and it faces up, into the chassis for me.

    If you still have your splashguard it's no problem at all, and if you don't I still don't think there's much risk.

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    Subaru Newb MainFrame's Avatar
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    How quick will my oil light come on if I suddenly lose pressure? I guess I'll get one, tho I'll still be paraniod about it getting caught on something..

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    He simply abides. SD_GR's Avatar
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    Originally posted by MainFrame
    How quick will my oil light come on if I suddenly lose pressure? I guess I'll get one, tho I'll still be paraniod about it getting caught on something..
    The oil light will come on too late.

    If you do get one, either buy a small ring clamp, order the squeeze-on type ring clamp specific to the valve, use some wire, or even zip tie (for all I know) around the bottom portion of the valve. This will make it very difficult for the lever to open on impact (it's already exceedingly difficult for the lever to open unintentionally except in the case of a hard impact at just the wrong spot, and this will make it much more difficult).

    If you use a screw-on clamp (DIY from Home Depot or auto parts store, like the ones for hoses) you lose the ability to do a tool-free oil change, but all you need is a pocket knife screw driver to losen the clamp and slid it off the body of the valve, then flip the lever. Just food for thought.
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    The world breaks everyone and afterward many are strong in the broken places. Ernest Hemingway
    I lied. I cheated. I bribed men to cover the crimes of other men. I am an accessory to murder. But the most damning thing of all... I think I can live with it. And if I had to do it all over again - I would. Benjamin Sisko
    DISCLAIMER: Opinions expressed are the author's alone and are inherently worthless.

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    Subaru Newb MainFrame's Avatar
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    I'm not really worried about it coming open, I figure if anything happens it will get completely ripped out of the oil pan. Driving around in pastures and stuff, I never know what's going to catch on the underside of my car, whether it be vines, hay twine, or wire. Obviously a lot of stuff drags underneath my car since the header wrap is worn through, and there's big scrapes all over the undercoating from sticks and stuff digging into it. And now that it's 1.5" lower than it used to be it's going to be even worse...

  16. #15
    Registered User pityr's Avatar
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    Isn't the 5 year 50K miles powertrain warrantee standard? Wouldn't this be covered by that?

    Just curious...
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