Changing oil, anything special? [Moved]
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This is a discussion on Changing oil, anything special? [Moved] within the General Maintenance, Troubleshooting & Accidents. forums, part of the Tech & Modifying & General Repairs category; Is there anything special to changing the oil on a WRX besides 1. warm oil 2. shut off car 3. ...

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    Changing oil, anything special?

    Is there anything special to changing the oil on a WRX besides

    1. warm oil

    2. shut off car

    3. pull some sort of plug

    4. change filter while oil drains

    5. replace plug

    6. fill to specs

    7. drive, stop, recheck oil level ?

    What oils do you guys use? What brand does Subaru recommend? Should I use synthetic? Does the car come with dinosaur oil? If I switch to synthetic, is it okay to go straight from dino to synthetic, even if some dino oil might be hanging around in the engine?

    Thanks a lot, I promised the GF I'd change her oil, and I wanted to make sure there was no special voodoo involved like there is with the Porsche (on that car, the oil level will read empty unless the car is running and up to operating temps)
    Keith
    79 Porsche 930
    07 Subaru WRX Wagon

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    God
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    Use full synth. Maybe a thicker oil in the summer. Other than that, same basic procedure.
    Daniel Ponze, Lead Tuner Tuning Factory, Inc.
    PH: (248) 477-0700___FX: (248) 477-0701

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    Yea Subaru does not condone the use of synthetics....thats why I changed my own oil last time and put in the Mobil 1. I'm using the tri-synth formula (fully synthetic). I would also recommend Amsoil...they invented the synthetic oil way back. Changing the oil in this car is a breeze if they didnt tighten the drain plug too much. You dont even need to jack it up! Actaully its better not to jack it up b/c then u have to lower it to make sure all the oil is out of the pan. One word of advice : GET A OIL FILTER WRENCH. I did this oil change, and mind you it was the first time I ever changed oil in a car, in a parking lot in the middle of the night with my friend's highbeams facing my car. It was windy as s**t and cold to boot. Well, it was all going according to plan until I tried to take off the oil filter. It wouldn't budge....needless to say I DIDNT have the oil filter wrench. So we tried and tried and I was about to call AAA (i could have used the other filter but then I would have wasted like 20.00 worht of oil the next day when I had to change the filter after I bought the damn wrench.) Well we got the damn thing off finally by hand....yea it took like 1.5 hrs...should have taken 20 mins Yea so get the filter wrench.

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    oh yea....if "dino oil" is engine break-in oil, the answer to your question is no...they use real oil in the REX from day 1. Oh yea...dont change the filter while the crap is dripping from the pan....itll get all over you. Drain the pan...then plug the pan back up....then take off the filter. Also remove the oil cap before you start anything to relieve any pressure so that you can be sure that all the oil has dripped out and none is still in there.

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    Dino oil is short for dinosaur oil which refers to hydrocarbon standard regular oil (not synthetic), you know, made from dinosaurs under tons of pressure.
    Keith
    79 Porsche 930
    07 Subaru WRX Wagon

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    Nobody seems to have mentioned the fact that you are supposed to change the crush washer around the oil drain plug with each oil change. I bought 5 or 6 of them at the dealer. They are very cheap. Or you can put in a Fumoto oil drain valve (http://www.fumotovalve.com) and never have to deal with taking out the pug again.

    Dale

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    Moderating U! KurleeDaddeeWRX's Avatar
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    Just ordered one Fumoto valve for my Rex and another for my gf's Civic. Her drain plug started leaking a little bit of oil since I haven't changed the crush washer in so long. This will help alot.

    Thanks for posting that link. Car Craft magazine, a muscle car magazine, had these in an article a long time ago and I could never find that mag again.
    Kurlee Daddee
    (THE ORIGINAL)

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    Moderator Penguinking's Avatar
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    Originally posted by iceNine
    Nobody seems to have mentioned the fact that you are supposed to change the crush washer around the oil drain plug with each oil change. I bought 5 or 6 of them at the dealer. They are very cheap. Or you can put in a Fumoto oil drain valve (http://www.fumotovalve.com) and never have to deal with taking out the pug again.

    Dale
    but if you use the fumoto valve you'll have to drill into the oil pan if you're setting up an oil temp gauge (like i am) so you'll need the original drain plug instead

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    Registered User PlatinumWRX's Avatar
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    Agreed, the subaru oil temp thermocouple is housed in the drain plug. Pretty cool because you never have to worry about dropping the plug in the pan, since it's captive.

    I only recently heard about the "crush washer" and i wasn't sure where it was. Is there something similar on the filter, or is this the washer that I heard of?

    -Jim

    Originally posted by Penguinking


    but if you use the fumoto valve you'll have to drill into the oil pan if you're setting up an oil temp gauge (like i am) so you'll need the original drain plug instead

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    Moderator Penguinking's Avatar
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    i was under the impression that the crush washer was around the drain plug. but then again i could be wrong since i havnt changed my oil myself yet

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    the crush washer goes around the plug. You have to make sure it is on right, or it will slowly drip out, at least it did in my experiences.

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    SInce it is a crush ring, you got to tighten it until you feel the ring compressing and then continue to tighten it to factory spec.
    What mods, dude this baby is stock
    2002 Platinum Silver 5spd sedan.

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    why would you want to warm the oil? have you ever seen warm oil drain out of a car? it's so liquid is splashes EVERYWHERE.

    plus, why would you want any of the oil in the block? a cold engine will have all the dirty oil in the pan, ready to drain. you're leaving some of the oil in the car when you do it on a warm engine.

    dR

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    Registered User tuca33's Avatar
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    You want it warm so when you turn on your engine,,there is still a little of oil protecting the engine.
    Tuca

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    the manual specifically states the engine should be warmed up for 10 minutes. any more than that is pointless and the oil could be mighty hot if it touches you. any less is not advantageous.

    i don't think subaru has a problem with synthetics but apparently they don't want to put them in until 10k miles, or when they feel the gaskets will be sealed or seated properly (gunked up with enough dino oil). until then they feel like the synthetics will run past the seals but there are those who don't agree. i plan on waiting myself.

    has everyone waited till 3k miles before hitting up the first change? or did anyone 'clean' it out at the first 1k break in point?
    2003 platinum silver wrx
    the only good suv is a dead suv.

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