The technicians at my dealership say that the engines are flushed out at the factory and that there won't be any grit in the oil from breaking in. Why then do they still recommend the first oil change to be at 3750??
That's incorrect. Engines used to be brand new when you bought a brand new car. Now all engines are broke in at the factory before being installed because too many people did not follow the recommended break in period oil change.
okay, so as unbelieveable and embarassing as it sounds...
i've never changed my oil as a DIY thing. not because i didn't want to, but because of convenience. i always took it to my mechanic...let them take care of it, but now i have time, and the means to do it. so i'm gathering the necessary tools and information to do it. i read the post at the beginning of this thread, and the sticky.
One thing i haven't seen is what do i need specifically to do this.
i've got:
3-ton floor jack
3-ton jack stands
m1 5w-30
wix filter
drain pan
empty jugs for the old oil
what else do i need? do i need a new drain plug? what tools will i need? i apologize if i missed anything before posting this...and hope there are some merciful souls to help guide me...tips would be great too!
oil filter wrench and whatever size wrench or socket you need for the drain plug.
2 things you MUST do (may have already been mentioned) - when you remove the oil filter, make sure the rubber seal is not still stuck to the filter mount on the motor. If it is, just peel it off, you don't want to put a new filter on with the old seal still on there. Also, before you screw in the new filter, put a small amount of oil on its rubber seal to lube it up a bit so it doesn't tear when you screw it in. Hand tight plus a half a turn with the oil filter wrench should be tight enough.
Secondly, you don't need a new drain plug, but you do have to make sure that the washer stays on the plug when you put it back in. If it's damaged, replace it with a new washer.
You are supposed to replace the drain plug crush washer each time you drain the oil. You can get them from any dealership or mail order subaru parts place. And the Subaru branded oil filter has been shown to be the best filter for the money, with the most filter area and the best flow passing capability (but any filter will do). Also, I clean my K&N air filter every time I change the oil - it helps a lot with fuel economy. Check all the tanks under the hood to be sure they are full to their fill lines, power steering, brake fluid, coolant, etc. Check the belts for cracks or wear. And it doesn't hurt to go around the car greasing all of the lube points, like door hinges, latches, gas filler door, etc. Check the air in the tires and fill up the washer fluid.
I often bleed my brakes when I change the oil, since I use high temp fluid and do competition events. Since you're new to DIY, I'd hold off on this until you feel more comfortable. Brake fluid is highly corrosive - it will strip off the paint.
I have simply been using the small craftsman strap wrench. Ideally if you don't over tighten it you shouldn't need a wrench the next time around. Oh and if no one has mentioned it avoid over tightening the oil filter as it makes it harder to get off and you run the risk of messing up the seal.
I was wondering if any one else was losing oil. i have an 04 wrx with 16k miles and when i checked the oil the other day, it was a quart and a half low!!! i immediatly called the dealership, and the guy at the service dept said if the car is driven hard on a daily basis, oil will burn out of the engine at about one quart every thousand miles. just wondering if he is full of **** or if anyone else knows of this
I was wondering if any one else was losing oil. i have an 04 wrx with 16k miles and when i checked the oil the other day, it was a quart and a half low!!! i immediatly called the dealership, and the guy at the service dept said if the car is driven hard on a daily basis, oil will burn out of the engine at about one quart every thousand miles. just wondering if he is full of **** or if anyone else knows of this
hehe, i just ended up using my hands...it worked just fine...
no leaks, full oil...only hard part was getting the car up (mines lowered about 2), and getting the drain bolt off going the wrong way..other then that...no probs!
funny for me to read this thread. i just spent 6 hours learnin about lubrication in a motor at school today... if you dont have an oil filter wrench you can use sandpaper to get a good grip.
if you use mobil 1 extended performance, thats "good for 15,000 miles" you still need to change it sooner. any oil is good for more than 3,000 miles, oil doesnt go bad as long as it doesnt burn it gets dirty and collects carbon and other "dirt" that car ruin bearings.... once the oil pressure starts to go up from the filter restricting flow it will open and not filter any dirt out...
Just purchased a new 07 WRX with 13 miles on it. I'm at about 500 miles right now, and was just wondering if it is recommended to get the oil changed at 1k miles? What are the pros/cons of doing so...
I apologize if this has been covered; however, I'm at work and don't have the luxury of reading the entire post (have skimmed a lot of it though).
Also, I live in Chicago, so we have cold winters and reasonably warm/humid summers. What is the best oil to use in the car? I've never had a turbo charged vehicle so I want to make sure I follow all the steps to keep my car running at tip top shape.
How often are you going to be changing the oil in your car? I don't drive it much. So, I change every 3 months. During the warmer months, I use 10W-30 (I last changed it in February w/ 10W-30). When it gets colder, I switch to 5W-30 (usually for one oil change out of 4). I don't use synthetic, but as long as you adhere to the change schedule with dinosaur oil, it won't void your warranty.
You can change the oil at 1K miles, I did. But, if you left it in till your first scheduled oil change, that won't be a problem. I just liked getting rid of the metallic objects in the oil/oil filter at 1K miles.
Everyone has their own opinion as to whether or not to use synthetics or stay on dinosaur oil. I am not going to be pushing my car on the track nor on the street. I let the oil get up to operating temperature before I shut the car down. If you keep the regular schedule of oil changes, you shouldn't need to go to synthetic oil. I think synthetics are a waste of money in a car that doesn't require them. That's just my opinion, but others differ. Good luck.
I use a fumoto valve instead of the old drain plug and it makes changing the oil faster than a Nascar Pit Stop. Sometimes I might miss the first minute or so of a show if I try to do it while the commercials are on.
got my oil changed at 1767 miles and used 5w30 m1 synthetic. Wasn't shure what type of oil on my transmission fluid so I didn't change it. I really want to though... just to get rid of all my break in fluids >.<
quick question.... it says to use 5w-30. and from reading, seems like most of ya'll are using 10w-30. i went to the dealership today (Sherman Oaks Subaru, CA). and asked if i could use 10w-30. Apparently, the guy said its too thick and should only be used in super cold weather.
Whats goin on here? Btw, i'm using mobil 1 synthetic. Thanks.
quick question.... it says to use 5w-30. and from reading, seems like most of ya'll are using 10w-30. i went to the dealership today (Sherman Oaks Subaru, CA). and asked if i could use 10w-30. Apparently, the guy said its too thick and should only be used in super cold weather.
Whats goin on here? Btw, i'm using mobil 1 synthetic. Thanks.
alright!!!! awesome, appreciate the info guys. .... so it seems like 5w is thicker and the maintenance dude at the dealership had it wrong. well for now i guess i'll stick with 5w.... and then maybe try out the 10w late spring/summer as suggested.
The 5W is thicker specifically in the case of Mobil1, and I mention it because it's not what one might expect. Other brands will differ but in any case you can always look at the spec sheet on the manufacturer's web site.
I should probably be able to answer this myself, but I'm still not sure. I live in Mobile, AL. on the gulf coast (east of New orleans) warm to hot humid weather all year round. Would you all recommend 5w30 or 10w30 Mobile 1?
There is no reason to use a 10W IMO. If the motor drinks too much M1 5W-30, either keep it topped off and check fequently or find another brand 5W-30 that is used less.
Here in South Africa the owners manual specifies an oil change at every 12500 km.(7800mi). I can only assume that the dealer puts in dino oil from the first service onwards as I am probably the fifth owner of my 2003 WRX, I wouldn't know. The car has 166 000km(100 000mi)on and doesn't use oil or smoke nor has the turbo been replaced. The question asked in this thread many times is how much is your engine worth. Well I can answer that conclusively. We have many places that sell used Jap engines here. The average price for an EJ20T is R6250($811)including the turbo. In the States you guys can tell me if such an option is available. I just feel too much is made of the type of oil and or the frequency of the change. In my opinion synthetic over dino oil any day for a turbo motor. As for the base stocks being level III or IV doesn't really bother me, as long as the API rating is an SM rating you are getting the best grade oil money can buy. I will be swithing to Liqui Moly(Lubro Moly)5W30 oil which as SM rated. This is a hydrocracked oil but I will use it with confidence for 12500 km.
Some guys here drive their toyotas without changing oil or filters till they blow and then drop in a new engine or recon the old one because it works out cheaper in the long run than frequent changes. I think this is ridiculous but it does illustrate the fact that oil can last some time, even dino oil.
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